double_edge2

good idea...seen a few people on here use concrete as filler and weight. the rubber belt is good for the concrete longevity (crumbling if no steel top plate). i use rubber under mine...two big strips, but when you fasten yours with belt under i dont think you will have any probs. (less you only have a push bike and need to do a demo 50k away and want to take the stand):o

they look real nice, and who cares how long it took, unless on a limit.

no probs. if you get no-one closer or a better offer, the gear is done. if no-one else can offer labour or a ute or so, worst comes to worst ill hire a 75 and buy some clothes without holes.:)

for use. ...... i got a small anvil on a stand and a big one on a stump and i dont know how well my gassy will run without air and the charcoal forge, and ill donate a bag or two of charcoal for the cause. and use of the tools and shed to make the balance. and ya can pitch a tent or have a patch of floor here at eagle farm. if you dont get any closer offers. im not at the gold coast.

no, my apologies if that seemed bruff. it was not meant to be. im not the best people person or communicator, and please, rant away, im learnin instresting stuffs here!

following the ideas of "JNewman", and "Sam Thompson" just a thought, if you are ok with the forge weld thing, slit the edges of the swedges, taper the spring, insert and forge weld the spring like adding a piece of hard steel to the folded axes i see you blokes make. with the drill if you have one, id do the ball, drill the edge, insert the ball, and pin or wedge from a down hole to secure, or pein the edges over the balls at high heat, flattening and securing.

yeh....you got everything!....charcoal included though not distilled yet. way to go.

thought i said that.....if gypsum is calcium sulfate? the "someone said", was a chemist. thankyou though.

yeh please, and a long stick on s/one elses microwave.:cool:

awesome, i too would use the idea, simply functional. nice snake too, looked real at first glance.

i use old pairs of stockings to cover things, or a regular dose of crc, and cigarette filters for gas fittings, on the things i dont box.

yep calcination of limestone (containing calcium carb) for lime ....portland cement and lime, ingredient=lime and its variants and whatever the rest for the makeup. calcium hydroxide, from the broken down by water or slaked, then the water got rid of by heat or raise the ability of dilution by heat i pressume and lots of popping and hissing. grade 5 were the best seven years of my life...lol....someone smarter would have to explain it a bit more simply or concurr to make sure i had that right. they add this to steel and the like in the making as well....apparently.....lol someone said blackboard chalk is actually Calcium sulfate and this would not be my choice. although the test is going to happen with some in the furnace. i think a large piece, unless brought slow to heat might do the popping thing as it releases its whatever its going to release, so powdered. i will try to find some of both calc carb and bl/board chalk today if not, selbys again. and the test will be next sunday at the shed with the gassy. i thought chalk was calcium carbonate. ( goes back to the grade 5 thing) after a little reading i find it is used to protect the vessel from slag and metal sticking, and i have a dolop of guk in one of my cruciples (pink stuff) for ally that does exactly that. i would say that whatever the bonding agents and fillers the desired result is the inclusion of calcium carbonate or similar, and at least for ally type heat, 660, it works as a non stick agent. so test it is. "i believe jewelers used to use a block as a weld and solder bench"........might have been for the retrieval properties, precious metal would not stick to the surface...confirmed by jeweler. still......test it is...can you tell im bored......lol

50mm tube easier to fuller

oh millions........ just a thought.....you can fuller tube, round or square to square, and twist, giving you the struct. without the weight..and add scrolls for strength or decoration.. same with thinner twisted solid...tack on and wrap or rivet on the scrolls to make it stronger

nice work. was it hardened and tempered? making more will give you more experience, giving you the result you want. keep up the good work.

lol.....mmm pink please....match my fenimine contours.... was probly going to go white for the reflective...although who knows what part of the spectrum and how well a red or fluro color may fluoresce it or maybe amplify it..i think, depending on the carrier in the pressure pack, may burn, discolor and defeat the effort. i did a search in the archives and found nothing related apart from a topic on marking chalks and heat. I know, it can stand being used as a refractory, just wondering how reflective or if someone else thought of trying it....monday experiment if i get to it. and thanks for the reminder for the possible calcining issue. i believe jewelers used to use a block as a weld and solder bench.

ill have the steak tenderiser...:D

actually a search feature i use in google is say, ........syntax follows.... chalk site:www.iforgeiron.com .....or....... "Scroll Generator" site:www.iforgeiron.com ... the advanced search functions of the common browsers are really quite capable and easy to manipulate to take advantage of the archive system. ....and if you all knew this fine, it will self destruct in a few moments..:rolleyes:

the student, is a credit, and reflection of skills passed on by the skilled teacher, doesnt matter what idea from where, the point is, after being shown, to manipulate steel to the seen (or mental) image, or shape. pat you, and your student on the back.:)

i know it would be upsetting if it were happening to me......lol........you might try the fold and weld then upset as well later on, all good things to have a go at, and get good at.:)

nice forge Hofi...next ones for yourself of course...post to me , bill to Finnr...:D

mankel design.. i like that i can stick a piece of plate, or a corner of a gate or adj a large scroll or reduce the cavity to heat up a billet or long and thin or whatever....two bits of steel in a narrow gassy kept me on the hammer flat out. i hate work but it can keep workers busy.

could i use chalk....you know ,,,good old calcium carbobonateling type stuff thing or however you spell it........say mixed with water and or metho, as a paint on, reflective refractory ?

please!.......do not put any thing but food in your micro wave. do not alter the faraday cage of the (open doors while running or rig to run open)the microwave. i have worked with dc to daylight, and a fun toy they may seem for the short, 2400megs though not so short and a short half life, can destroy you or leave the beginnings of the end in you without you knowing. please learn about more about the induction coil and the frequency they use for the proccess of induction forging. any radiation is harmful! regardless of what university said it was fine to use your mobile or hand held two way. buy an arrl handbook, and learn of some cautions first please! you seem to have a fair understanding of this, to add, yes the right food presents the correct loading for this frequency....meaning most of the radiation is absorbed and turned to heat with the 2-5 min half life, not bounced as spurious and hamonics outside the faraday cages range. when you start experimenting with materials not designed for this cabinet and cage you change the ratio between forward and reflected power ratio which can allow for wierd spurious and harmonics, more rf reflected/bounced to the insuficient cabinet that is not earthed enough to begin with and not designed for this type of use, and allow for unforseen events. im done :)

hi usually a orange to bright orange depending on type of steel as "thecelticforge" says. coil springs seem to do that to me, lose integrity at or just before bright orange to wet. then you got to cut off half an inch or so and go again.