DRoberts

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About DRoberts

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/23/1979

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    http://davidproberts.com

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    Male
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    Guthrie, Oklahoma

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  1. if its just for wall hanging you could glue the handle to the scabbard and put the blade in the closet.
  2. I have an ATS34 knife from Alaskan knife maker Gordon Parrish from a flea market that best I can figure was made in early 80's. It has a bit of corrosion from air moisture, seller said it had been in a sock drawer as long as he had had it. Looks like dark almost black rust. from my reading it's about the same stuff as CMP154. S110V is supposed to have much better corrosion resistance, and from the looks of it much better edge holding. https://www.google.com/url?hl=en&q=https://web.archive.org/web/20110204132459/http://parrishknivesalaska.com/&source=gmail&ust=1487109711458000&usg=AFQjCNHbHPTciGYsJdUELu7p47bOjvq1-w Found some threads by Phil Wilson on a forum talking about it, looks like he prefers S30V for fillet and only uses S110V on thicker knives. http://www.seamountknifeworks.com/gallery.htm - love the fillet knives he has up on this page He speaks on it a bit here http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/634089-S125V-vs-S110V-vs-S90V-vs-S30V/page2
  3. i want to use a stainless for fishing knives. Check the HRC with a 975F temper, that's pretty phenomenal for a stainless.
  4. Not sure on the flexibility, yesterday I made a blank of a 9'' blade from 1095 to compare it to in that respect. I'd prefer less flexibility so it doesn't lose some of the meat from flex while pressing against the spine of the fish. It's just like 40-50$ a pop per attempt on this stuff. I *suspect* that the cobalt in there will reduce flexibility.
  5. Fillet blades, specifically longer ones used for larger fish. 8-10'' edge. Wouldn't even attempt to forge it. It's available in a 2-5mm thickness this would just be a grind and treat. The only knives i can find made from it are little folders by spiderco so I'm not sure how a longer edge would compare to 440C or S30V.
  6. When my furnace arrives I would like to try working some of this steel. Looking for comments of any kind from folks that have worked it. https://www.alphaknifesupply.com/Pictures/Info/Steel/CPMS110V-DS.pdf Carbon 2.8% Chromium 14.0% Vanadium 9.0% Niobium (Columbium) 3.5% Molybdenum 3.5% Cobalt 2.0%
  7. caught another good size gar this last weekend. ended up with about a 1x1 foot square hide cut. got it scraped and salted on a press right now, will have a pretty cool looking handle pic soon.
  8. love the handle.
  9. Hand chiseled poplar glued with wood specific gorilla glue - it claims to be water proof once hardened. working on it slowly as i have time. going to wrap about half the saya with the same leather cord as the handle, which i still need to re-wrap with a same underlay of some sort. i wanted to use gar scales.
  10. didnt have any problems with warping. by the time this thing was drawn out to proper length it had been heated prolly 50+ times over a years worth of messing with it. i straighten the coil out while yellow/high orange hot all at once with a tree stump and 4x4 low on the jeep then pound away. gave it a few normalization heats before the quench just to be safe though. all my work is done with wood. i welded that forge together to where i can just dump raw wood on top and by the time it settles down to my working area it's all nice hot charcoal. the hamon was visible prior to the ferric chloride dip, but it was pretty ugly. I'll try lemon juice on my next one. i got some sodium persulfate etchant but havent tried it yet, dunno what to expect from that one yet. kind words always appreciated. thanks.
  11. bend continuously - I mean bend it to any extreme and it wont break. for example i bought a few super cheap china katanas (like 20 bucks) for gag gifts bout 5 years ago. you could wrap the blades completely around a flag pole several times and they wouldn't break. like wrapping wire around a fence post. no strength, no hardness. if i pulled a sword to 65 degrees released and had a 10 degree bend set in the blade but 120 degrees snapped it that would be not a continuous bend. so like if i could take a blade and bend it into a circle that would be baaaad.
  12. You can see the coil that was from the same spring as the sword in this pic.
  13. very nice, what material is the guard and pommel?
  14. i did some temper testing with the coil spring stuff i've been working with. sounds like the same stuff you're working with most likely. made about 1/8th inch thick 1'' wide unfinished blade points to test with. i didnt see much difference between the zero temper and 30 minute @ 400F temper with water quench. both snapped like glass without flexing much. vegetable oil and a 1hr temper @ 400F had great flex but still broke before bending. water or vegetable quench with 2hr temper @ 400F resulted in great flex and very small bend prior to the breaking point. i used a big catfish scale i had to pull on the tips, the breaking points of water quench without temper didnt take much at all, the 30 minute temper i couldnt see a difference in the weight of the pull. the veg and 2hr temper was WAY higher weight on the breaking point. i made a couple graphs (this was about a year ago) of my testing i might be able to find. i was trying to pinpoint where the break/bend graphs intersect to get the most out of the blade. one graph for water one for vegetable oil. x axis i used weight and y axis temper time at 400F. i formed the opinion that i would like my blades to have good flex, bend before breaking, but never bend continuously without breaking. peanut oil will smoke and burn at 440F making it easy to manage temperature wise. just heat the vat of oil up till it smokes and soak a blade in it for a couple hours. i found this page to be a good tool for picking tempering mediums. http://www.goodeatsfanpage.com/collectedinfo/oilsmokepoints.htm
  15. i do have one question though that maybe someone can answer for me. i was surprised at the resulting color of the ferric chloride bath in that i expected the softer metal to take on more darkness than the hardened metal exposed during the quench. Walter sorrells blades blades have the opposite color http://waltersorrellsblades.com/gallery/ , hard edge white soft back black. is he using a different chem to achieve this? or a laminate outer with some nickle type of metal? i've looked at some of the build logs and it doesnt look like they're laminate.