DRoberts

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About DRoberts

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  • Birthday 04/23/1979

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    http://davidproberts.com

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    Guthrie, Oklahoma

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  1. Can i substitute a Habaki with a Ricasso?

    You're a little off on your understanding of the katana basics, research that more before you get started but dont avoid fixture making. jump right in. making habaki for the first time was a great experience for me. i completely vaporized the first two i tried to make (dont even try to heat copper with coal). just get some copper, silver solder and solder flux and some flat bar stock and try it a few times.
  2. 1600F soak for a duration of 10-15 minutes per 25mm of stock thickness for 1045 for uniform heat dispersal. This is more for heat treating though. http://www.interlloy.com.au/our-products/carbon-steels/1045-medium-tensile-carbon-steel-bar/?output=pdf
  3. Show me your Bottle Openers!

    Pure silver inlay OSU, Oklahoma State University. Made for a charity raffle at work.
  4. Normalizing-Hardening-Tempering?

    Understanding how a crystal formation occurs in volcanic activity is much like what happens in steel. Liquid magma dumped straight into the ocean instantly solidifies, locking in the natural state of the magma. If allowed to cool slowly over thousands of years the different elements begin to clump together forming crystals. Quartz, silver, gold. Cripple Creek Colorado is an excellent geological example of this. This same concept can be applied to heat treating. Instead of thousands of years as a time metric, you're dealing with seconds. The normalizing process I find particularly interesting. If you do several normalization cycles each time lowering the temperature you take it to prior to air cooling you can produce a very fine micro grain structure. Each time you normalize the crystalline structure has time to grow as it cools. The goal is to take your metal and make the entire piece uniform in its crystalline structure, with the smallest crystal growth possible. For example, lets say you are working with CPM S110V (my favorite fillet knife material for my personal blades) stainless. This would be the correct heat treatment for the blade. All steel manufacturers include data sheets for their products. It doesn't have to be a special alloy steel, you can find these data sheets for many common metals both stainless and non-stainless. Crucible Industries makes S110V, the data sheet can be found here: http://www.crucible.com/PDFs/DataSheets2010/Datasheet CPM S110Vv12010.pdf CPM S110V much be quenched at 2150F. That would be your minimum temperature for normalization cycles. This is the austenitization temperature. It should be non-magnetic, and the lowest temperature that loosens the bonds between the crystalline lattice in the material. ~~Normallization~~ Cycle 1: Set your soak temp for 2250F and soak for 1hr. This will homogenize - think of it as almost liquidizing the crystalline structures in place, they are still there roughly but are in a state where they will reform once cooled the bonds that hold them together are broken, but they are still there "thermal memory". You will never completely get rid of them without melting down the steel. The higher your temp is the longer it takes to cool. You want to start above your quench temperature, but without excessive heat. Go with the closest margin of error your heat treat furnace can achieve. Given the same rate of cooling in air a higher starting temperature will result in larger crystals. This is important to remember. Once you start your normalization cycles you want to make sure you never cycle at a higher temperature than your last cycle. If you do it will continue to improve uniformity, but not so much the grain size. By reducing the temperature a bit on every cycle you both create uniformity of crystalline structure AND force smaller crystals by reducing the time in which the crystals have to grow. Cycle 2: Set soak temp for 2225F and soak for 30mins, air cool. This slightly lower temperature will reduce the time it takes for the steel to cool below the austenitization temperature. The crystals that formed in the first cycle will be unable to reform to their original size and the micro-stresses of the crystal formation will force the bigger crystals (thermal memory here) from the previous cycle to break up. This is very good. Cycle 3: Set soak temp for 2200F and soak for 20mins, air cool. Again lowering the temperature a bit forces the thermal memory of the previous cycle to break up even smaller. Cycle 4: Set soak temp for 2175F and soak for 20mins, air cool. At this point you have a very uniform crystalline structure throughout your steel and a very small grain structure. By stepping down your temperature each cycle you have forced less of the crystals to homogenize each time, creating an effect that fills in the gaps so to speak between the larger left over crystalline structures that formed during the first 2 or 3 cycles. ~~Quench~~ At this point you want to go for your quench at 2150F. - - Note this is below the normalization heats. If you go above your normalization heat temps you ruin the work you have done by the step down cycle. Make sure you never do this, never quench from a heat higher than your normalization heats. This is an extremely important concept - the longer your steel remains takes to cool the larger your grain structure will be. You want your steel conditioned perfectly by the normalization process so that when you go for a quench you can do it right at the austenitization temperature. If you skip the normalization structure you lock in whatever stresses and non-uniform crystal growth size is in the steel. This is why you see smiths on forged in fire quenching at cherry red end up with high performing hardness and those quenching at bright yellow end up with chipping and rolling. Both are hard, but only one is strong. This is also why quenching in water is very dangerous for steels with high rates of crystalline formation. Where pure iron may survive, high carbon alloy steel with very complex crystalline and even carbide micro structures just shatter like glass under that amount of stress. After the quench the uniform/tiny crystal formations are set. ~~Temper ~~ Set soak temp for 975F and soak for 2 hours. Make sure it completely cools to room temp each time. Repeat 2 more times.
  5. I need help and do not know what to do

    if its just for wall hanging you could glue the handle to the scabbard and put the blade in the closet.
  6. S110V

    I have an ATS34 knife from Alaskan knife maker Gordon Parrish from a flea market that best I can figure was made in early 80's. It has a bit of corrosion from air moisture, seller said it had been in a sock drawer as long as he had had it. Looks like dark almost black rust. from my reading it's about the same stuff as CMP154. S110V is supposed to have much better corrosion resistance, and from the looks of it much better edge holding. https://www.google.com/url?hl=en&q=https://web.archive.org/web/20110204132459/http://parrishknivesalaska.com/&source=gmail&ust=1487109711458000&usg=AFQjCNHbHPTciGYsJdUELu7p47bOjvq1-w Found some threads by Phil Wilson on a forum talking about it, looks like he prefers S30V for fillet and only uses S110V on thicker knives. http://www.seamountknifeworks.com/gallery.htm - love the fillet knives he has up on this page He speaks on it a bit here http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/634089-S125V-vs-S110V-vs-S90V-vs-S30V/page2
  7. S110V

    i want to use a stainless for fishing knives. Check the HRC with a 975F temper, that's pretty phenomenal for a stainless.
  8. S110V

    Not sure on the flexibility, yesterday I made a blank of a 9'' blade from 1095 to compare it to in that respect. I'd prefer less flexibility so it doesn't lose some of the meat from flex while pressing against the spine of the fish. It's just like 40-50$ a pop per attempt on this stuff. I *suspect* that the cobalt in there will reduce flexibility.
  9. S110V

    Fillet blades, specifically longer ones used for larger fish. 8-10'' edge. Wouldn't even attempt to forge it. It's available in a 2-5mm thickness this would just be a grind and treat. The only knives i can find made from it are little folders by spiderco so I'm not sure how a longer edge would compare to 440C or S30V.
  10. S110V

    When my furnace arrives I would like to try working some of this steel. Looking for comments of any kind from folks that have worked it. https://www.alphaknifesupply.com/Pictures/Info/Steel/CPMS110V-DS.pdf Carbon 2.8% Chromium 14.0% Vanadium 9.0% Niobium (Columbium) 3.5% Molybdenum 3.5% Cobalt 2.0%
  11. Educational First Sword - Tachi.

    caught another good size gar this last weekend. ended up with about a 1x1 foot square hide cut. got it scraped and salted on a press right now, will have a pretty cool looking handle pic soon.
  12. Another leaf spring knife

    love the handle.
  13. Educational First Sword - Tachi.

    Hand chiseled poplar glued with wood specific gorilla glue - it claims to be water proof once hardened. working on it slowly as i have time. going to wrap about half the saya with the same leather cord as the handle, which i still need to re-wrap with a same underlay of some sort. i wanted to use gar scales.
  14. Educational First Sword - Tachi.

    didnt have any problems with warping. by the time this thing was drawn out to proper length it had been heated prolly 50+ times over a years worth of messing with it. i straighten the coil out while yellow/high orange hot all at once with a tree stump and 4x4 low on the jeep then pound away. gave it a few normalization heats before the quench just to be safe though. all my work is done with wood. i welded that forge together to where i can just dump raw wood on top and by the time it settles down to my working area it's all nice hot charcoal. the hamon was visible prior to the ferric chloride dip, but it was pretty ugly. I'll try lemon juice on my next one. i got some sodium persulfate etchant but havent tried it yet, dunno what to expect from that one yet. kind words always appreciated. thanks.
  15. Wakizashi Collaboration WIP

    bend continuously - I mean bend it to any extreme and it wont break. for example i bought a few super cheap china katanas (like 20 bucks) for gag gifts bout 5 years ago. you could wrap the blades completely around a flag pole several times and they wouldn't break. like wrapping wire around a fence post. no strength, no hardness. if i pulled a sword to 65 degrees released and had a 10 degree bend set in the blade but 120 degrees snapped it that would be not a continuous bend. so like if i could take a blade and bend it into a circle that would be baaaad.