son_of_bluegrass

I would think the wax would be a bad idea as it seems it would hold heat in the same as oils / butter that used to be a common home remedy but is no longer recommended. I don't know about the propolis - any ideas? Honey has been used since the Egyptians were building the pyramids and todays science agrees that is effective. ron

They are scattered about my website. The link is in my sig. Of course being on a free hosting site, there is a bandwidth limit so if you find bandwidthe exceeded try again later. ron ps this way I don't have to do the work, I'm basicly lazy :)

Since I like this thread, I'll answer and bring it back up. The smith cuts one link. The third link specifically giving the miser the pieces which comprise of 1 cut link, a 2 link chain and a 4 link chain. For the first day the worker gets the cut link. On the second day the worker gets the 2 link chain and the miser takes back the cut link. The next day the worker gets the cut link again for a total of 3 links. The miser takes the 3 total links and leaves the worker with the four link chain the following day. On day five the miser gives the worker the cut link again. On day six the cut link is traded for the 2 link chain. And finally on day seven the cut link is once again given to the worker. So what is the next puzzle? ron

I'm not going to mention any specific wood as there are many that will work well. Instead let me tell you what I look for when I make a tool handle. First straight grain. Straight grain is less likely to crack or split. The less the grain curves and curls the better it will take the stresses of being a handle. If you can split out a blank of the right size then so much the better. There is one exception to this - elm. Elm typically has such an interlocking of grain it is slightly less likely to split than a solid bar of iron (ask anyone who has tried working well seasoned elm) Second a little bit of springyness but not easily bent if in cross section of 1/2 to 3/4 inch or larger. If it is too stiff it is likely to split or crack, to flexible it just feels wrong when I swing the hammer. Last hard enough to not ding easily, any such wounding of the handle makes it more likely to fail at that point. In general hardwoods are better than softwoods. ron

Or if you are willing to spend the money you can get prescription safety glasses.

Tool steels tend to be difficult to forge. To get the most out of them often requires soaking at a specific heat during heat treat that is difficult in a coal/charcoal forge. The 10XX series are easy to forge, cheap and with enough carbon (around 60 point or better) makes for an excellant knife. at least that is my view of the world ron

I can't forge to a couple thousands tolerance either, but i can get close enough to make a working slip joint finishing with files and sandpaper. My biggest problem is keeping (or making ) everything flat enough to look good, it really doesn't take as close a fit to work (and work well) as it does to look professional. I think a belt grinder with a good platen would help alot over files and sandpaper. And if I was looking to sell folders I would certainly try that as for now this is a hobby (when I made my first one nobody told me I couldn't do it hot with a hammer so I did ) ron

I am curious of who forges the blade and/or other parts to folders. On the other forums I read regularly, when folders are mention most everyone speaks of cutting and grinding the parts. Personally I find grinding tedious so those few slipjoints I've made I forged the blade and backspring, anyone else follow this path or am I psycho? ron

If you haven't done so, check out ABANA's (Artist Blacksmith Assn of North America) site for your local chapter. The folks there will be a wealth of info and you can get hands on demos. ron

Have you looked at ABANA's site for a local affliate? Don't take this the wrong way but I keep seeing you whine about looking for someplace to apprentice. In maybe 10 minutes I found NJBA (new jersey ABANA affliate) with a couple of open forge nights a week and a number of class opportunities in the area or bordering states. If i'm stepping on toe here - sorry (for some reason not all the post in this thread are making it to my end).

If it is called mild weldable steel it is probably A36. That is a structural grade and often has a lot of recycled steel in it. As such you may find a piece or just a section of a piece that has some alloying element in it that makes that specific piece hard to weld in a forge. I ran into the same problem when playing with rebar, some worked some didn't. ron

Around here open fires are not allowed if the wind is above 15 mph. Of course I think some depends on the specific forge set-up and how likely embers are to escape. ron

Society for Creative Anachronism A group that is devoted to recreating history from pre-17th century europe (more or less generally) If you're really interested Society for Creative Anachronism, Inc. ron

You certainly can make all the tools you need to start. However that path will work better if you have some mechanical apptitude to start with, if you are still building skills you may want to buy some basics. What are the basics you ask? Good question. You need a hot fire (forge--fire pit and air source), something to beat on (anvil--heat resistant at the temps you work at [something under 2200 F] and able to withstand hammer blows and the heavier the better [generally] before iron work became sufficently advanced big rocks were used), something to beat with (hammer or big stick or rock or ...) and some way to hold the steel without burning yourself (tongs, pliers or using long enough stock [with frequent cooling of the holding end, I can hold something about 18"]). That is enough to start. A second pair of tongs can help with bending, but bending can also be done with hammer and anvil. Hammers of different weights and styles can make some techniques easier, but one good hammer you can swing all day can do everything you need. A vice, swage block and other impliments are nice but not needed to start. Oh and don't forget safety: eyes and ears; hot flying bits; fire control / suppression; heavy falling things. ron

You should start with something that builds hammer control. S hooks, drive-in hooks and screw-eye hooks are good for that. you get practice with pointing and scrolling and bending with those. If you aren't used to swinging a hammer find the hammer you think you can swing all day and get something a bit lighter and don't spend 4 or 5 hours at your first fire. If you haven't found a local group try the ABANA site looking for an affliate local to you. ron

I started with a few hooks and simple stuff to figure out what I was doing. My first knife I was never able to take all the hammering artifacts out of because there would be no knife left. The dagger at the top of the page was my 21st completed knife and second go at a semetrical blade (the first was a socket spear), and the first one without a full tang (it has a leather washer handle, the leather came from worn out gloves). Usually when I go to make something I just start heating and beating. And yes that goes for the folders as well. What questions do you have? ron

You know, I've made 3 pair of tongs. I'm still trying to make a pair that work well. (I've only gotten one to work at all) ron

If things go wrong, I've got 3 choices. first get out of it myself, 2nd die trying or lastly get lucky and someone comes along. I spend most of my shop time alone when there is no one else around (often the only time i can get), spotty cell signal (no signal much more common than signal even though about 3/4 mile up the road full signal) and I never think to grab a cordless from the house (assuming one is charged). That is the way it is. ron

There are a number of plans in the blueprints section for homemade forges and some can get to welding temp, if you are a good scrounger you should be able to make the forge for less than $10. My forge used to be a weber barbeque grill. The better insulated the fire pit is the better it will work, I lined my with wood ash. As for welding I've found when using charcoal it takes at least 7-8 inches of fire and will use a lot of charcoal but for general forging you can get by with 4-5 inches of fire. The amount of air also affects how hot the fire can get but charcoal doesn't take much air. For a side blown forge you will either need to consider the air pipe expendable, make it from something that can resist the heat and flux or make it water cooled. ron

I wear ear plugs (the foam type rated at NRR 25 or higher) for anything and everything involving power equipment or hammers or that I find annoying (like movie theaters that are always too loud). If I could find a comfortable pair of muffs ( I need glasses to see and that makes muffs uncomfortable) I'd probably wear both for loud stuff. ron

These are called duples nail and are for temporary use (usually holding bracing). But on to your problem have you thought of cutting the head off? ron

A good place to start if you have no equipment and limited means is to find a group local to you. If you are in the States check out ABANA's site for a nearby affliate. If you'll tell us where on Earth you are, someone may be close to you and/or know of a local group. ron

if they are old enough there is a possibility they may be wrought iron. otherwise they are likely cast iron and good for weight unless you are into steel making. ron

Thanks. The trees I've seen don't get very big so it probably isn't commonly seen. I had to cut some out of a local tree and decided to give it a try. ron

1095 blade, apricot handle, mild guard and handmade sheath. The detail of the handle in the pictures doesn't match to how it looks in person. Blacksmithing no. 2 Opinions welcome ron