son_of_bluegrass

I agree if you want to make money at this you need to approach it as a business first. Which of course means keeping track of what it cost you to make the knife and accurately track the time you put into each one. And the cost of making a knife should be re-evaluated on a regular basis so you don't wind up loosing money in a couple of years because you haven't kept track of rising prices. I think the reason for the adage "the way to make a small fortune blacksmithing (bladesmithing) is to start with a large fortune" is that so many try without treating their hobby as a business. ron

What are you basing those prices on? Ordering from a knife supply store like Jantz, I can get enough plain carbon steel for 3 or 4 knives for under $10 plus shipping, a plain pair of slabs for handle material is $5-10, guard and pin material for maybe $10 and by ordering enough the shipping is just a small addition to each part of the knife so for these parts, I figure $15-20. Of course there are other costs to consider; drill bits, sanding media, buffing compounds, electricity, wear on tools, adding the cost of a sheath (leather, stitching), etc. Based on this I guess it cost me $50 in materials and overhead to make a knife. Since this isn't my principle source of income, anything over that is profit, not that I sell many knives (or have even tried for that matter). Of cource if I calculate the profit per hour work on what I've sold, I make around $3-4 per hour. ron

My blacksmithing shop I clean when needed but I don't really have as much room as I think I need (as in just room to stand and turn from one piece of equipment to the next). One day I want enough room to move then it will be like my wood shop which I try to clean at the end of each days work (I do that pretty well) but sometime it gets skipped. ron

I haven't seen some way to put out the fire if need be. That may be a fire extinguisher or a hose (turned on with nozzel) ron

Don't know if I like leather handles well enough to do another though. More details here Blacksmithing no. 2 ron

The first question is what fuel are you planning to use? Answer that and you'll get more specific responses. ron

Test each one for heat treat on scrap before you heat treat a knife you like. I have a piece of old lawn mower blade that shatters in water.

After seeing the blower I don't think it needs a gasket. Mine is a hand crank with a gear box and takes oil. I'd suggust you try it without and if you think it needs one you can add it. ron

Pictures would be nice as well as what the blower is. I recently used automotive gasket maker on my blower to replace what had originally been oakum to make a seal to keep the lubricating oil in the blower. ron

If you're getting less charcoal than you think you should, it is probably getting too much air. It isn't so much about driving mosture off as the other volatile componets of the wood if it is burning most of the water is gone and other stuff is burning. Depending on the wood you start with expect anything between 50-75% charcoal from a kiln. As for the fiberglass insulation not the best idea, the heat would break the insulation down pretty fast. ron

You've gotten some good advice above. Since you need to rework your forge anyway you may want to think about a side blast. I find side blast works better for charcoal than bottem blast.j ron

Cooling between plates of metal (usually copper or aluminium) is called plate quenching and is applicable to some metals. ron

There are a number of blueprints on making forges. The best design will depend on the fuel you expect to use, what you have to build with and what work you want to do. Have you looked on the ABANA site for you local affliate (there is one in OK, just don't recall what it is at the moment)? ron ps are you the same JOAT who posts on rec.woodworking?

I have a solution that works for me on the side blast that doesn't require a water tank or burning pipe. I sort of mede an extension of my pipe by placing a brick on either side and on on top with the end of the pipe about 2 inches back from the fire. I would imagine a castable refractory nipple would work better. Another potential benefit to the side blast is the air can come in a bit above the bottom of the fire pot which can help prevent clinker and ash from blocking the air flow. ron

If you're overweight you won't get into the military untill you loose the weight. If you can't pass the physical tests you won't be allowed to stay in. You only get the retirement if you serve 20 years or maybe if you're taken POW or sometimes if you get severly hurt and are discharged on a medical. The only child bit only means you are given the option of not deploying (maybe). If this all sound a bit negative, well maybe it is. You need to talk to recruiters (each branch you are interested in) and ASK QUESTIONS. Recruiters have to answer your questions truthfully but they don't have to volunteer any information. If you do join, READ THE CONTRACT. I spent some time in the army and enjoyed it. wouldn't change that decision if I could. ron

Do you have any specific questions? I don't really think about construction techinques, I more try what seems the easiest way and if it don't work try something else next time. Here is a basic overview. I start by forging the blade the forging a backspring as close to a fit as i dare. Shape the pair of them closer with files and sometimes a grinder. Heat treat and do a final fit up. Play around a bit with pin positions till I get what seems right and put holes in a sheet of brass to match that. I fit bolsters on then match the handle scales to that. Then it is assembly and peening the pins without breaking anything. ron

I got another folder finished. They are getting better. More pics at the bottom of this page Blacksmithing no. 2 Opinions welcome ron

You might not think so if you saw the flaws in person (or you might think they are character). But some time back I offered to make a folder for someone else and since this is the first working one I've completed since then, if he likes it it's his. If not, well let me just say I'm poor. (of course since he has retired and is currently travelling a bit, I don't know when I'll have a chance to show it to him) Thanks for the positive comments. ron

Finished my 3rd successful folder recently. walnut handle, 1095 blade and backspring. More pics on my recent work page Blacksmithing no. 2 I'm still working on getting good picts. ron

Have you checked the ABANA site for affiliates locak to you? In case you don't know ABANA is the Artist Blacksmith Assn of North America. Local blacksmiths will have a good idea where to get tools and equipment. And they are a source of knowledge. ron

Finially got to work with steel again. Forged and heat treated this one last year and just finished it. The steel is 1095 and the handle is mulberry. Length is just under 7 inches. More pics here Blacksmithing no. 2 Opinions welcome ron

If it cracks or falls apart at high temperatures it is called red short. (Played with some re-bar that crumbled like a cookie if hit too hard once.) Red hard means it don't want to move even under high heat.

So what is a "blacksmith heat treat" for H13. Is that one you can just heat and let cool or does it have a time at temperature soak? I've been thinking of getting some for tooling just don't know how to heat treat it to good effect. thanks ron

So how big are the boys at rat hole? I see they call the 250 pounder "portable". Well more portable to be precise. ron

if you're interested in a used anvil check this thread on what to look for A basic list of things to know before buying your new anvil. If you want a new one Peddinghaus is currently the only forged anvil I know of and is costly. I have a peddinghaus 50 kg (110 lbs) and like it. I hear good things of Nimba anvils. They are cast and more costly than Peddinghaus. Some of the makers of farrier anvils make larger versions if you are happy with the one you have except for weight maybe search for a heaver model. I happen to like the double horn style. ron