BT

That one looks like it could be a Trenton. The numbers might be a date.

The one with the "X" is probably a Wilkinson anvil. Probably originally marked J. Wilkinson & Sons, Queens, Dudley.

Sam, Mike wouldn't dupe you. Here is the answer. Questions and Answers, Holland Rusks

with apologies to Otis Redding: "Wastin' time . . . ."(Acting like a dork)

Rock on. . .

I would think that only the tips of the spears would need to be hardened and tempered.

The HOST with the MOST Gets LOST in this LIST

So Dodge, your studying to be a nerd?

oops looks like we had a fork in the road so I will try to Save this by playing off of both words.

That would be Dick on the dock with the sock.

Another thing to watch is make sure the heels of the scarfs are at welding heat. (see attached drawing) If the piece is not far enough in the fire the tips will be at heat, but the heel will not be. The hot tip will then not stick to the colder heel of the other piece. An easy way to save your piece, would be to forge braze it. Wrap a couple wraps of thin copper wire around the joint, flux with borax, and heat until the copper melts. Then pull it out of the fire, and as soon as the copper solidifies, dunk it in the slack tub for a second or two to pop the flux off and wire brush and let cool.

I needed to replace the brushes in my old Buffalo blower about a year ago. Tried the local motor repair places. None had brushes big enough to fit. Checked the online supply houses. No luck there either. I found a company on the internet that would custom make the brushes, but they had a 3 set minimum. Finally someone told me to try the local vacuum sweeper repair place. They rummaged around through their stock and came up with a pair that was just about 1/64 to wide, but the thickness and length was exactly what I needed. A few minutes sanding down the width and I was back in business. The guy kept apologizing that he had to charge me 10 dollars for the set.

consider it "Sent"

Hay-Buddens usually have the serial no on the left front foot.

Another solution for the tee fitting, would be one of the old cast iron pipe tee fitting. If you know any plumbers they usually throw away all the old cast iron stuff when remodeling systems and replace it with PVC stuff.

simmonds google "babbitt pouring instructions" and you will get a bunch of hits on tips and examples of babbitt bearing restoration. Crescent 32" Band Saw Restoration is one example, although this example is a two piece box. I think the Little Giant site has some good info also. The advantages of babbit in the case of your blower would be that the tapered shafts would not need to be altered. Just polish them up a bit and they would be ready to go. I have repoured several small blower bearings like yours and it is really not that much of a job.

It shouldn't be hard to fabricate some bearings boxes for babbit bearings for this. Most of these type of blowers had one piece boxes on them. You could use a short piece of black iron pipe arc welded to a piece of barstock for the box. Drill holes in the barstock to correspond to the mounting holes on the case. Drill a hole in the pipe for the pour hole which will then become the oil port also. Position the shaft in the center of the pipe ends and dam up the ends. Then just pour the babbit through the oil hole that you drilled in the pipe. Smoke the shaft well before pouring with acetylene or with a candle. After the pour, remove the shaft and drill out the babbit in the oil port.

Back home again from a whirlwind tour of Nebraska, Wyoming and Colorado. Guys, NEVER take your wife along to visit Jr.'s shop if you ever intend to expand your shop. The argument that all your tools will not fit in your existing shop will never fly again. Jr. has more STUFF shoehorned into one building than anyone else I have ever seen. Great place to see though, and Jr. is a most accomodating host. He had a fire going when I got there and metal ready to go. I got to play with the Depew and several of his other toys for several hours. I finally started feeling guilty about taking up his time. (Well not too guilty . . . , I was having too much fun ) After leaving Jr.'s, we made a quick stop by Indian Cave State park for a look Cheryl McDowell's shop and a visit with her and her assistant. Then on to Nebraska City, to find a motel for the night. After dinner, we made a side trip on Jr.s recommendation to Sid Sudimeier's place to see all the hammers sitting outside his place. From the 500 lb LG to all the other brands of hammers sitting outside the shop, it is quite a tour in itself. I understand the power hammers displayed inside the shop is even more mind boggling, however being Saturday night, the shop was closed, so that will have to wait for another trip. Sunday morning it was on to the PBA hammerin at Waverly Nebraska, where I met Tinker Tut, one of the posters on this sight and a bunch of other Nebraska smiths. Very friendly bunch of folks, that I enjoyed visiting with. We headed west about noon. My wife wanted to tour the Stuhr museum in Grand Island on our way west. There at the museum, I ran into yet another Nebraska smith, Randy Dack, the resident smith at the museum. Another great visit with one of the local smiths. At this point, my wife was wondering it we were actually on vacation or an if this was an extended blacksmithing tour. Thanks Jr. and all the other Nebraska smiths that I met and visited with for your hospitality.

Tinker Tut I mixed up the beeswax that I got from you at the PBA meet with some linseed oil and turpentine and used it to finish some projects this weekend. Worked great. I enjoyed visiting with you and the the other Nebraska smiths at your meeting. Thanks again.

And a good time it was. Thanks again Jr.

I made my first ever spike knife a couple evenings ago too. Never was in to knifemaking much and still don't intend to go there, but my son brought by a bucket full of spikes he had picked up and insisted that I make one of the HC ones into a knife for him.

Herc I just replied to your PM. Took me several days to figure out I had a new message :-)

According to Anvils in America serial number 100477 would have been made in 1911. The 100 on the left front foot should be the weight marking in pounds. It would be one of the American made Trentons.

herc Blacksmiths Association of Missouri : ABANA affiliate. is BAM's web site. The latest newsletter plus the meeting schedule is posted there.

True Jr. but you have to agree that this site has these often needed conversions among others: 454 graham crackers = 1 pound cake 10 rations = 1 decoration 100 rations = 1 C-ration 10 millipedes = 1 centipede 2 wharves = 1 paradox :)