BT

Nice job Jr.

There are several sites you can get a free download of all four volumes of the Richardson book in PDF format. Top & New Downloads, "How To" Books from the Past - wkFineTools.com is one.

I repaired a couple old vises with worn out screws and boxes many years ago. On one of them, I used a new piece of threaded rod welded to the old screw head and handle and then welded a nut to the back of the screw box. This vise had the open back screw box. On the other vise, I used a piece of threaded rod from an old house jack for the screw. Then I fabricated a new screw box from several pieces of heavy pipe and made new threads for the box by wrapping keystock around the threaded rod and then inserting these threads into the new box. I brazed them in a coal forge with copper wire and borax. Both of these have been in use now for about 30 years and still working well.

Google for electrolysis rust removal. Here is one link Rust removal by electrolysis I have some Little Giant parts going in a tank in my shop at the moment. This process will remove caked on crud, rust and even old paint.

In the link I posted above and after a little further checking in several dictionaries I did find references to "barding" with one of the definitions being the wrapping of meat with bacon or fat as opposed to inserting the fat into the meat(larding). Hmmm . . . new one on me. Most dictionaries only list the poet definition or the armor definition for bard.

Actually it is called "larding" See What is a Larding Needle? Curly: I used some 3/16 stainless rod, hammered to a flat point on one end and flattened and slot punched on the other. The slot punched end for threading bacon through, just like a big needle and thread. The flat sharp point cuts a path through the meat for the bacon strip.

Postman lists a Hill anvil in AIA. Markings are "Hill" over "Burmingham".

Highlander, I would use the electrolytic rust removal process on that vise. It would be quick and a lot cleaner than trying to power wire brush all that rust off. Check this site for the recipe Electrolytic Rust Removal . I keep a tank mixed up in my shop. My son has some old Jeep trailer parts in mine now. This solution will also remove old paint and caked on grease and dirt.

Don't be too hard on Frosty, have you SEEN his toes? :D

It is only toxic in California. (just kidding char) Jerry, I have used it too for curly maple stocks. When I used it, I first used a dilute nitric acid solution and then after the stock was heated slightly with a torch and dried, followed with the potassium permanganate. I have since gone to an commercial stock stain that is applied in one coat and gives much the same effect.

IMNSHO the area of the hole in the hood should be equal or less than the area of the chimney. For example if the chimney is 10 inches by 10 inches (= 100 square inch area), the hole in the side draft hood should be no larger. I have a 10 inch round flue on mine which I figure is somwhere around 78.5 square inches. I made the opening in my hood 8 inches by 9 inches which would be 72 square inches. Here is a pic of mine in action.

Preston: I'm just gonna say it was off the "broken" side and leave it at that! Tetnum: Post a picture of your gig if you can. I collect old gigs and am always interested in seeing something different. There is a picture of some of the full size river gigs that I make in my member gallery. I think they are buried in a sub gallery there.

Jr. These were usually used on half inch thick by 36 inch long arrow shafts. The bows used were usually six feet long and handmade from red cedar or other native woods. Ray Joe Hastings of Doniphan recently wrote a book on their use in the Ozarks. He has quite a personal collection of these spikes. The heads are anywhere from four to nine inches long.

This is a traditional style Missouri Ozark bow spike or bow gig. I forged this one from a piece of buggy seat spring. For more information on this Ozark tradition, visit this link: http://thelibrary.springfield.missouri.org/lochist/periodicals/ozarkswatch/ow50319.htm .

Does anyone know when the registration form on the SOFA site will be activated?

Your pictures don't show the bottom, but I see a handling hole under the horn and under the heel which would indicate a forged anvil. The ledges on the feet and the handling holes would make me guess Peter Wright also.

Dave I came across this old ad that may shed some light on what was mounted on top of your forge. Obviously not the same forge, but the mounts on yours certainly look like it could have been for a similar vise. Bernie

Looks like you need to tighten the wedge that holds the vise mount and the leaf spring, so there is some pressure exerted against the front jaw by the leaf spring.

I have a 1941 International . . .