BT

From the general shape, my guess would be either a Trenton, or possibly a Hay Budden.

Was searching for a metric conversion chart on the internet and found this one Metric Conversion Chart Thought it might be useful to someone .

I can't tell for sure, but I believe this is the same model as yours, from their catalog.

So what is going to happen to Jezebel? Seems a shame to retire her completely.

Hutch Check out Blacksmiths Association of Missouri : ABANA affiliate. for info on BAM - meetings etc. The annual Ozark conference was a couple of weeks ago in Sedalia, but there are bimonthly meetings around the state. Also BAM members can buy coal through the organization. Coal is stored at several locations around the state.

Cory That is really looking good. You will need to try some of the new Sewell coal that BAM is getting now and really give it a workout. It smokes a lot more that the Pocahontas stuff we had been getting. I may eventually have to go with something like your setup instead of my overhead hood.

Jim It is a door knocker made from two spikes. Here is a side shot.

I actually made this as a trade item for a BAM meeting that was scheduled for last Saturday. However the meeting was canceled so that we could all attend the funeral services of Doug Hendrickson.

Thomas, you could leave the heads projecting above the concrete and tell them it's to scare off the people. :)

When I saw the title of this thread, I thought it was gonna be a recipe (Grilled Hawk). I haven't found a good recipe for chicken hawks yet. Seriously though, Tyler very nice job.

Keykeeper, most of the old universal type electric forge blowers were designed to be run on a rheostat. I have run my old Buffalo electric blower on a simple light dimmer switch for the last 25 years and the only maintenance needed to the motor was a new set of brushes last year. You will destroy a modern induction type motor though if you try to run it on a rheostat.

He was R2D2's grandfather.;)

Thanks Sven. These are a nice addition to the downloadable COSIRA books.

Ron Here are a couple pages from one of the books that Sven posted links to. This may help to illustrate the process a little better.

Ron Looks like your scarf may be too long. Bend the piece in a U shape before you scarf the ends. Then scarf at an angle on the step of your anvil or any other fairly sharp edge. Do one side, and flip it over and do the other side - one heat. You can see the type of scarf I am talking about in the picture "B" on your posted link. Then roll the scarfs together at an angle as in picture "C". The link will be somehat pointed on the end at this point, but the scarfs should be fairly short. Then weld and upset the pointed end back to the oval shape. The pointed end gives you a bit more material to make the weld. You should be able to make a link in 3 heats. 1 to bend the U. 1 to scarf the ends and bring them together and 1 to complete the weld.

You weren't by any chance celebrating St. Pat's day yesterday were you? ;)

Well, obviously it IS a right handed hammer. :D

GREAT shot of your work area and anvil. I applaud your ingenuity. Just goes to prove that you don't need a huge investment in tooling if you really have the desire. Keep it up.

I have also seen the tool referred to as a butcher.

Yeah, Steve, I reread your post after I posted my link and noticed you said nylon frames. This might be more what you are looking for Crews S-7 Clear Lens Wire Sideshields Safety Glasses or this Crews Innovator Bifocals

Ten is this something like you are looking for? Crews Engineer Bifocals Jock also has the Bouton glasses in his store across the street.

Looks like a tinners mandrel to me. Similar to #910 here Roper Whitney - Quality Sheet Metal Fabrication Equipment

This is the way Jerry Darnell teaches in his Colonial utensil class. Neck the parent stock down and scarf and weld to the handle stock. THEN spread out the stock to form the ladle.

JCC is an interesting place. Kinda like summer camp for adults. Like Leah says, you can really recharge your batteries there.

According to Postman's book: Your anvil doesn't have the "England" stamp, so this would indicate manufacture before 1910. The "Solid Wrought" and "Patent" stamps indicate after 1860. If you can tell if the face was put on in one piece, it would indicate manufacture after 1885. If you can tell if it was put on in several pieces, it would be before 1885.