civilwarblacksmith

Frosty, The grate with the pan can be used with or without simply by not putting the pan on. Without the pan it looks just like the first picture, except it has small 3/8 id. piping on the side for the pan's 3/8 roundbar to slide into.

Paint for that time depending if it was made in a field or shop is not untraditional. Though the paint they had did not come from a spray can, it was more like house paint. As far a fire grate, I will paint them if it is for a customer. It looks alot nicer and gives the apperance of more time and care being put into its' being made. Use krylon high heat paint. The campfire will never reach the temp to burn it off and does not affect the safety of cooking. After the continual use of the grate in the fire will help protect the grate.

It's the same shade as the rest of it. So it's probably just coal if it was used at all. Personally with the size of the bowl it just seems like a redundant part of the forge. You can fit an awful lot of coal in that bowl.

No problem Chris. Just remember if you make one like the second is for extreme circumstances for re-enactors. It was an area where they could have open fire but not on the ground.

english wheel

grindstone

Barbie & Ken

Very Nice. It really adds to the attractiveness of the wall.

Wish I only paid $55.00 for it. Would have been nice to have the blower also.

Straight Line

Looks Great, Happy Forging

What is the year for the catalog?

treadle hammer

Got it. Thanks.

An anvil face that has been patinaed and smoothed from years of use is fine for me as long as there is no dents and dings in it. My anvil have seen over 100 years of history and use, and I like the look. It hasn't hindered the forging operation at all.

Hey Steve, Your saying the round part of the forge is the front and the trough goes to the rear on this one? The fire pot will fit either way to bring the blower from right or left.

I picked this cast forge a few months ago to be my shop forge. It has a trough on the front. Has anyone ever seen one like it and what is the trough for? I can't see it being for coal as the bowl is big enough it could hold 50lb of coal in it. I had mentioned it being for water as a slack tub for small items and they mentioned that it should be rusted if it was for water. The water made more sense to me.

I personally would not make the firepot any thinner than 1/4". With a 1/4'' firepot as long as the forge is not used day in and day out at 8 hours a day, you shouldn't have to line it with anything. Any thinner, you will have to line it with a refractory clay or cement.

I like the size of it. Seems to have plenty of working room.

In most cases depending on what material and the thickness of the firepot and the amount of time forging usually will decide whether you need to line it or not. If you are using a brick fire pot, such as the one I had at the homestead; line it with clay or some refractory material. It keeps the brick insulated and stops them from cracking due to heating and cooling. If you are using a fire pot of 12 gauge mat. (3/32 in) It need to be lined. 1/4" in thickness for a fire pot I would say doesn't need to be lined if you are just a hobby smith and it is not run 8 hours a day all week. Once you get to 1/2'' plate and up no lining should be required. As for the pan area surrounding the fire pot. Doesn't need to be lined. The insulating factor of the pot should protect it.

When at a re-enactment and need to sit down to take a break and get something to eat. So your fire doesn't go out if it is mainly a coke fire, put a small chunk of wood in it and cover it over slightly. Your fire will continue to burn using the wood keeping the coke alive.