markb

Then wash the dishes, car, dogs, kids, every day for a month.

Maybe use the unknown steel for the guard and butt cap or handle on the FS. Use your own magic for the blade. Also the unknown could be used in a plaque or part of sheath ,display, box etc. I like Fairbain-Sykes then Ka-Bar is US origin, and maybe more pactical if it's a user.. Sounds pretty exciting to me,maybe kydex sheath.

What kind of finish? Bare metal ,patina with age? I assume it's in a park? Able to touch and feel. I love the simple shape although i doubt it was easy to create, a beautiful piece. Please tell us more about it. Mark

I have a soft brick or maybe cast refractory, very soft. Replaced the door with ceramic wool. Good tip. I have several 3/4" X4"x6" plates I use to heat the anvil. Thanks everyone for all the help. Mark

John I like that idea, using the available heat, I'll try it. Mark

Bob .....Murphy's Law Thanks for the tip on the convection oven Bruce. Went today 7am -10:30... micro wave, micro wave, micro wave, geo. forman Good score Pete

Oxygen/acetalyn gas welding outfit would be most versatle IMO you can braze with it. But at your skill level maybe not the most practical. I,d say mig is easiest to learn, and I use mine to attach a 2' handle for forging my knives, then cut it off after forging. Most here would like to help you learn, what tools do you have now? Mark

I don't know why he sold it, had a lot of sentimental value to him...He and the guy he bought it from both lived in Buffalo , his dad worked at Buffalo foundry. Blower runs smooth as silk. I told him I'd take good care of it. We don't have a grill, so this one may see a steak or two:)

Thanks Steve Frosty The guy says to me when I got it... Be careful you can burn-up all your charcoal if you crank to much. LOL

Another related ? Can I temper at say 400 once, and I think it's to hard, temper again at 450 to soften a little? Can I go back the opposite direction. This has prolly been covered but I start spinning looking for these asnswers.

I just got back from my garage sale search. No t/oven But I found this cool BarBQ:D Thanks again Bob for that explanation. Still need a t/oven:o Cheers Mark

Thanks Bob Garage sales this weekend. I'll get a t/oven. Also I was wondering if there are any rapid transformations going on immediately after Quench that need to be addressed by the temper, other than the unstable state of the steel. Mark

Hey Jake...HEY JAKE!!!! Noticed it's your birthday today. HAPPY B'DAY. Hope all's OK. Cheers Mark

I googled , blockand tackle images Thats not what you asked for, i know, I have a wooden block, I'll take a pic, I think it has metal wheels, I have a metal body wooden wheel also. I'll post this evening.

Heat treating 1084 in an electric oven, I went to 1475 degrees, quenched in ATF at 150 degrees and checked w/file for hardness. Now to temper it takes the oven an hour to cool to 400-, my temper target. In the sticky it mentions the stress at the martensite state, after quench (could crack blade) Any other dangers waiting an hour to temper. I'm using the oven (PID control) for its accuracy and fear of burning point in forge. I'm taking notes and doing #d samples, but don't want to continue down the wrong road. Thanks Mark

I've been trying to turn my shop space from a shop- tool, materials storage area into a shop. I started by removing everything (almost) not needed for the task of forging and finishing knives. No small task. So in the process I found the barrel, the bottom of a vacuum I dumped, and a real neat round thing (would make a nice hammer rack) Anyway no biggee, just though I'd share and I love to post pics.

Looks very good, kind of an oriental look. Cheers Mark

I was looking through some old blade magazines from '90, '91 or so and found an artical on this maker. Does all file work except rough grind and showed carburundrom stone grinder and hundreds of files in his shop. Great Lakes Custom Knives - Knives by Wolfgang Loerchner

The rough "grind"- file went real well ,I could keep nice flat bevels and work up to the lie, real crisp, flat and straight. Used the body file(magi-cut) first then the big mill bastard. Then I went to the small mill bastard and started to draw file. I didn't draw file with the large file. Drawing with the small file parrallel to the grind lines was too hard to keep the angle and I found out i needed some sort of magnification at this point to see the scratches and lines, had to slow way down. In the prosses I filed a dip in the top flat and there went a nice straight line. So I think a Opti-visor is in order, the magnifier doesn't allow you to move to see at another angle which is essential. I filed w/small bastard then sanded w/120 grit one bevel to see how it'd look, may have to go back to file. I think the dark line in the bevel is a high spot, you can see it from any angle. Anyway just thought I'd share my learning experience.

How big-small is that, not familiar w/masonry nails . I like It!