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I Forge Iron

Macadaciouse

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  1. Anyone have a clue what type of glue to use? Wood glue seems like a poor choice, but then so does 2 part epoxy, crazy glue or really any other type of glue I can think of. Epoxy may hold the joint together, but I mean for mixing with horn dust...
  2. So I was turning a handle on a lathe and found an internal crack in the horn. The piece turned out well and I'm not expecting perfection, but is there a way to minimize the crack? Can it be filled with horn dust and glue the way you can ghetto-fix wood? If I can't come up with a better idea I'm just going to clamp it, superglue it and make that the back, but I figured I might as well see if anyone has tried this before.
  3. The problem was almost certainly that I was being too hasty; I was using a giant standing drill press in the shop I'm working in (I build scenery for a living) and managed to break an 1/8" drill bit in half just by TORQUE trying to predrill for the 1/4" final. Jantz doesn't offer predrilling as a service, but to be honest I'm just being lazy. I'll order another and post how it goes if anyone really cares. Should I use a coolant/lubrication like with steel? I still have a mark from where the original bit touched my arm after drilling out mk. 1...
  4. Question for people who do a lot of knifework, how do you do the handle? I have a 14 inch dagger i'm trying to mount and a) cylinders of ebony or buffalo horn are hard to come by and buffalo horn (I haven't tried ebony yet) is EXTREMELY hard to drill through! Even with a drill press the bit deflected and the piece split. What I'm wondering is if I could route out a channel in 2 knife scales, which are easier to come by, and glue them together under a press to produce a decent handle. Anyone have any other ideas? Know where to get pre-bored handle blanks? Thanks for any information anyone can provide.
  5. Forgot to mention I got a hold of a technician who ultimately said anchors can be made of all sorts of steel depending on the make and era. Eh, experimenting is part of the fun. For ASO, ever think of welding a tie plate to a piece of 10" I beam? It wouldn't be great but it's an aso we're talking about and the added mass should help keep down the ring.
  6. I ended up forging that anchor into a machete-of-doom (1/2" stock is a little unnecessary for any blade unless you intend to draw it out into a longsword). Unhardened it could cut deeper into scrap pine than a hatchet that was lying around the shop (crosscut, not rip) and the steel proved to be water hardening, so I'm going to try and oven-temper it and see how it works after that. I've been impressed so far, but good luck if you don't have a striker or a power hammer. It will probably all make perfectly nice blades (except rr spikes, not a fan of those personally) it's probably up to what is available and closest to your end product. Springs are great for their consistent width and (if a leaf spring) straight shape, I've personally never had the patience to straighten out a coil spring with other material available. Sorry, kind of rambled off there. I think the best answer is if it hardens with water or oil, give it a shot and see how it goes. Masonry tools work well as stock also.
  7. Haha, I had the same problem looking for super 8, that's what the other smith called it. But the point is the tempering process doesn't differ significantly from other steels, which is exactly the information I was looking for. I had no idea you could cool steel fast enough with air to harden it, fascinating bit of information. Thank you for the help!
  8. Exactly! Rail anchors! Thank you so much, I'll try the industrial websites again. Sorry to bug everyone for information that was online, I'm keeping that website on tab.
  9. Most industrial websites require you fill out 3 pages of forms to get in contact with anyone and the one or two I reached in person didn't have a clue what I was talking about over the phone, I'll see if I can dig up another one for the purpose of pictures...
  10. I've been poking around the internet looking for an answer to these questions for a while and have finally caved to - ghasp! - asking for help. Forging a star bit masonry chisel into a knife blade. Octagonal stock, water hardening etc. I was told by a member of the ABANA guild chapter in my area that tempering the steel of masonry tools was different than tempering carbon or tool steel because of the alloying elements and referred me to a site he simply referred to as "engraph." No luck finding the site or "bethlem super 8" steel, anyone know what he was talking about?
  11. The only one I had on hand has already been hammered beyond recognition and combing the internet hasn't turned up much, I was just wondering if anyone had ever tried turning one into an axe blade before. Main concern is how to harden and temper the steel (if that's even possible). I don't know whether to use water, brine or oil and I'm not sure how funny alloys affect the color drawn in a temper. Anyone have any experience? I usually stick with files for blades, this was an experiment born out of boredom.
  12. Anyone know the carbon content/alloys in the "3" or "w" shaped pieces of 1/2" stock you find around old track? I don't even know what function they play with the track, does anyone even know what I'm talking about? If I had to guess I'd think they're something like track keys to hold track down, they're roughly shaped like the aforementioned letters, albeit they are a little elongated and misshapen on one side.
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