monstermetal

Yeah but like I said... those pressure numbers are meaningless without a corresponding orifice size.... 5 PSI with running out the end of an open hose is not the same as 5psi running to a forge with a 1/64 th size orifice One has a CF that equates to a fraction of a gallon per hour... The other a CF that is several gallons per hour.... Just the PSI number, unless you are comparing two identical factory made forges.... doesn't tell you anything

Yeah when I was thinking about how I could drag this sucker back to my shop I was wondering if I could pluck the foundation and all out of the dirt and set the whole mess on a truck... Problem with that is all of a sudden we need a crane that can swing 40,000 -50,000 lbs instead of 10,000lbs ( two picks ) Figured it was probably cheaper to build a new foundation...

They looked better in person, But they still look great in the photos!

Condition is everything.... If its wallered, broke, chipped, cut without a clean edge on it... yes.. $250 is probably to much... If it is still dunked in storage grease with a paper protecting the top and never had a hot chunk of iron on it in brand new unused condition... well Id pay you a $1000 and know I could sell it at a profit.... For a "average" anvil I would say your on the cheap end of things

Ya know thats not really enough question... My Johnson forge will basically take all the propane you can get out of a 25 gal bottle and it not be enough to run all 4 burners With the regulator maxed out (it reads up to 80 psi) it will never get about 15psi because there is no back pressure... big orifices... big burners very inefficient... Now my 12" round forge with a T Rex Hybrid burner Its all about what I want for heat... I'll run it about 20 psi until it gets up to heat... If I am doing general forging I might back it down in to the 5-10 PSI range.... If I am welding I might crank it up to 25 PSI My two burrner venturi home made forge I run about 15-20 PSI after it is warmed up... It has two 1" burners that have a #60 drill orifice

I got a buyer for the hammer.... Thanks everyone....

Nicely said Ken.... I respect and understand your view... Now If I could only feel the same way.. I think part of my problem lies in my obsessive compulsive behavior... I am scattered but intense... When something has my interest its not uncommon for me to drop everything and spend days (sometimes 20 hours a day) with only that one thing on my mind... Reasearching, building, rebuilding, thinking, evaluating on and on... But often times something bright and shiny comes along and snaps me out of my madness and sends me off on another tangent.... The same is true with equipment.... I'll become engrossed in.... something.. Building an English wheel for instance... But after its done I got other things to do rather than actually use it... Now I will go back at some point when I have a job that will require its use and become obsessed about learning that process so its not like its wasted time.. And If I waited till I needed the tool I wouldn't have time to build one when the need arose... I am horrable about gathring things to build machines though... But the time I get around to something I have enough junk to build a dozen usually.. The Hydraulic press is a good example.... I have still yet to finish a press but I have 4 power units a dozen cylinders and piles of potential materiel all gathered for it

If you really need to know send my buddy Ernie a email... He is the top side welding instructor at The Divers Institute of Technology here in Seattle ernie@stagesmith . com

Howdy and Welcome! Sounds like your gonna fit right in here...

I say let a guy ask what ever he wants... thats the best way for him to get an education... He found what it was worth... It was worth $715 to somebody... I woudnt have bothered to post except while looking at the ebay auction I happend to notice the same guy has a signed Clint Eastwood picture for sale... for $99,500.00 And you thought the anvil price was high!

You know I don't know anything about the welder... By the numbers it seems alright but I always am scared of things that don't have a pedigree or known brand name.. What I can tell you is a 253 area code is local to me, the guy cant be more than 30 or 40 miles from me and be in the 253 area code... If the guy was close and had some way to look at the thing in person Id stop and check it out for you... Larry

I have offered this to one of the members here on I forge Iron and he has first right of refusal (through me anyway, I dont control the deal nor is it my hammer) I have offered to help with the rigging and removal of the hammer if he buys it and If he walks the offer will stand for anyone I can get to save this ol beauty... This is a 4N "Heavy Duty" hammer... same in operation as a B model but has external ram guides which give the ram more support. The trade off is there is less clear space to use tooling. There is 9" clear between the dies, a 4B has like 16" Its a 500lb tup two peice hammer. Total weight is 17,000 lbs. It will have to be rigged out with a crane due to its location, most likely with a RT pick and carry to get it out to where it can be set on a truck. My guess is a grand for the crane but it could be $500-$1500...(or more or less, no guarantees) The hammer runs but I think it needs some love... you could put it to work as is but the dies really need cleaned up or replaced. I would drill and bush all the linkage parts, just because I want positive tight valve control. I would do rings and leather seals in it before putting it into service.... it runs alot of oil though it because the ram seal is shot.. but they are leather and are a wear item so that's to be expected. It has one broken handle that does not affect operation They are keeping it place with a clamp.... There is some surface rust on the ram but it is not pitted, I would polish it up when I replaced the seal. The bull gear and flywheel look good as do the guides. All the oilers are in place and it has a unloading valve installed. It has a 20HP motor and a Phase adder that Im pretty sure goes with the hammer no charge. My experience has been that unless a hammer is coming out of a neat freak shop they all need something, This thing needs far less than my Nazel did when I got it and I think will make someone a real workhorse. If I owned my own shop I would buy it but I just cant see spending the money to poor a foundation for a two peice when my goal is to move out of there as soon as I can afford to do so... So here is the kicker... The spot where this hammer sits is being foreclosed on... Its got to be gone by Christmas... This is why I posted this info prior to hearing from the one potenital buyer, there is not time to mess around or this thing will be lost and probably end up scrapped by some developer... So like I said... I have nothing to gain here. I am not getting a cut of the sale nor am I asking to be paid for my time or help.... Im just trying to help the ol boy out who owns the thing (and I hardly know him) and make sure this hammer goes to a good home

I dont know... he specifically said "big" ( I know that's not very specific... But in my mind 4" is not that big) I do know that the radius of the "push" die has alot to do with how it focus the force... If you push with a 2" curve die (1" radi) it takes a lot less tonnage to bend than if you use a 24" curve (12" radi) on the top die... because of the less die contact you have the more the force is localized... So by the calculator it would take 50 tons more with that big radius top die... of course you would get a nice smooth bend over a arch instead of a kink too.... I think what he is talking about though is if you use a 1000 ton press and you bend 6" sq with something like a 16" lower die space (which would take 960 tons roughly) putting all that force into that one little bend affected zone is what causes it to blow apart....

yeah that should be a heck of an anvil... I think fork tines are usually 4340 which is also a steel used a lot for power hammer dies and other tooling... should be great!

Just a couple more things that got squished today... a reamer, a sprocket, another tap and a couple chunks of 1 1/4 rebar.... the golf ball is for scale...

It really is beautiful... Im glad this thread pop'd back up as I missed it the first go around..

boy that is a nice pile o iron ya got there!!! I actually called and ask a friend of mine about bending your 6" and the tonnage... He has done some shipyard work with really big steel and he said they would never work 6" sq cold.... maybe 6" plate in big chunks, but not square.... ... Now I am just repeating what I think he said.. but basically he said that big square bar typically has a very course grain structure and is likely to "delaminate" if bent cold.... something about how the stresses involved focus or something.... If you bent a 6" thick by 12" wide chunk that it would bend a whole lot better (with unlimited tonnage at your disposal) than a 6" square... the square was likely to blow apart in the middle.... Like I said I dont know... kind of makes sense though..... its harder to make a nice bend in a square bar

Man I want a big hammer..... Nice looking stuff.... Stuff worked under a big hammer just has that fluid organic feel... even if its a industrial thing. I am toying with the idea of building a big crank hammer from scratch.. maybe 1000 lb.... I have a friend who has a 500lb Little Giant... I figured I could scale and fabricate.... maybe when I retire Anyway I like... I think those free form play sessions is how you come up with a signature style

I read the article about the extractor... was there a photo? I couldn't seem to find it

Nice little tid bit... Did you just make the one? seems like they would look real nice grouped in a couple three sizes? How thick of sheet did you start with?

I agree.... but rather than that I am just curious what you guys make out of BeCU? I have seen many tools and once a huge roots style blower made out of the stuff... Just curious

Nicely done and well described. I have a original miners candle spike... im going to have to dig it out to see what the construction method was and compare it to whats been listed in the thread....

Howdy yur self! send us some pics once you get the forge lit in that pole barn!

Nice work. I like your pattern development, especially on the jelly roll Hope to see more!

I had the same issue with the 1" Hardy on my Nimba Gladiator... I used a Dynafile air sander like Harbor Freight there talking about. Between power and hand tools I bet I had 4 hours work in getting it sized where I wanted, but now my tools are all rock solid and all seat just as I want... so its worth the work for sure... Good luck!