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I Forge Iron

Everything Mac

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Everything posted by Everything Mac

  1. I would definitely try and haggle it down a bit. It needs a bit if a clean up here and there but it looks in pretty good condition. That works out at £235 which is a bit high for me personally but still an ok price. I did just pay £150 ($243) for a 225lb Peter wright though. :) I'd definitely buy it! Let us know how you get on! All the best Andy
  2. Just looked it up, they are really very clean! He must spend some time on them. I always wipe the face of my anvils with an oily rag after use, this seems too keep them a bit cleaner and helps stave off rust. But then it's often weeks between times when they get used because of my job. Cheers
  3. Good score mate. That smaller anvil looks like a real anvil, though it needs a bit of a tidy up IMO. The ring is probably a good indicator. Does it have a good rebound? You guys in the states seem to have it so much easier than us over the pond! Finding a blower is like trying to find a unicorn. All the best Andy
  4. They look pretty handy. Might make a pair of them at some point! Cheers for posting. Andy
  5. Cheers guys. I think I'll take the grinder to it when I get home. I'll get some pictures up too as it isn't just one or two. Cheers
  6. Well it's not just one ding, there's a good dozen or so. All in the "sweet spot" I have no idea what the hell they were doing to it because I couldn't dent the face when I tried on a corner. Like you say they would probably come out after a good session with the grinder. Cheers
  7. Hi guys I got myself a 2.25cwt Peter wright anvil last week. It has a wrought body and appears to have a very thick face plate. Over all it's in good condition (I paid £150) but the face has a few dings which I'd say are about 1mm or so deep. A buddy of my is a pro blacksmith and he reckons we can fill these with stainless steel weld rods and then just grind the surface flat. I always though stainless was soft and would be better using a hard facing rod? That said my knowledge of welding is poor at best. No pics for a while I'm afraid as I work offshore and I am currently at work. ;) Opinions much appreciated. Cheers Andy
  8. I have one a similar size to that and it weighs 62kg. So 100lbs for that one sounds about right to me. That anvil of mine is actually dead, it has a crack and no ring but that hasn't stopped it being a perfectly good anvil to work on. I only paid £10 for it and it's made that back a few times over ;) lol. Best of luck Andy
  9. Great thread mate. I enjoyed watching the forge come together. It puts my meagre forge to shame. That hook looks pretty good to me. There's no outof place hammer marks and the twist is even. Nicely done. All the best Andy
  10. Yes I really should be more strict on wearing protection. It was a great afternoon. I'm hoping to get some more practice in at some point. All the best Andy
  11. In picture 6, the left hand edge looks pretty xxxx screwed if you ask me. And the right hand edge isn't all that great either. It looks as though the hard plate hasn't been welded to the body all that well. I'd say pass personally. As fluidsteel said, it's quite a high price and I reckon you could get something in better condition. It would get you bashing metal I'm sure but, you would be better off finding a local scrap merchant and getting yourself some rail road track. All the best
  12. You could bolt or weld on some steel plate in the recess of the Rail, then weld the top to that to get a bit more purchase on it, if you are worried about it being thin. This would add to the overall mass too. My forge was nothing like big enough to do mine, I build a bonfire and put the rail in the middle of it, after about an hour it had reached the right heat for heat treatment. I never bothered to temper it. But it seems perfectly fine and like I said has taken a real beating. Yours is a much better design bionicarm, so it should be very useable. As for hardening, maybe it would be a good idea to slice off a couple of pieces and harden them both, one in oil, one in water then test them out. Any dents or chips would give you a rough idea what to do with it. All the best. Andy
  13. Nicely done. Tongs are hard to make, but they get easier with practice. I'd bend the handle closer to the pivot point as they look a bit wide to hold comfortably. I'd also grind off the bumps to make them more comfortable to hold. All the best Andy
  14. Hi Beth, I'm down in Dorset, not far from the coast. :)
  15. One_rod over on britishblades made a mini anvil from rail track http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?10065-Making-a-small-anvil.-(Lots-of-pictures)&highlight=One+rod+anvil He hardened it in oil if I remember correctly. I copied the idea but hardened it in cold water, this has made a really tough little anvil and it is very nice to use. It doesn't dent easily and has taken some real abuse. I think your RR track in the states is a different composition to ours though, so maybe you should harden it in oil first then go to water if it's no good. You design seems like a good one to me! Post some pics when you finish it. All the best Andy
  16. Hello mate. I'm sure there will be a few familiar faces. :) I think you are right! I've been having a good browse all afternoon. Some great threads. All the best Andy
  17. Hi guys, My name's Andy and I live is the south of England. I've been blacksmithing as a hobby for about 4-5 years now. I only just came across this site, though I've know about it for a while. I am glad that I did. I'm still very much a beginner and I look forward to learning a lot from you guys on here. Many thanks, All the best Andy
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