RogueRugger

The curves have a real nice flow. Is the color an artifact of the picture or are they actually a 'brass' tone?

Nice article, I'll have to dig up a copy. Brought back some great memories.

When I first started with nails, after a bit of trial and mostly error, I finally figured out the tip mentioned by Thomas. Now I use the edge of the anvil when I make the first few until I get my brain/eyes calibrated. I couldn't get to the link mentioned by Glen. I initially had problems with the nail sticking, but you don't seem to have run into that (very frustrating). The quick dip in the tub just before 'popping' the nail out of the header was one of things that helped me with that. And also helps keep the header a bit cooler as suggested by Glen.

Thanks for the additional info, I had not heard of Terrazo before. I have feeling that this is a bit more involved than I had expected. Once the weather warms up a bit I'll likely tried some simple experiments and get an idea of what's really possible. Cheers.

Thanks greatly for the suggestions. Nice looking work in the pics BTW. I was thinking much the same about the concrete being caustic to the steel (either alkaline or acidic). Most of the work I've seen seems to be brass which is what lead to the question. FWIW The floors will likely be acid etched - and have radiant heating. This was one of the few substantive bits to show up on a web search: http://www.signlettersource.com/embedding-sign-letters-in-concrete.php Thanks again

Anyone with suggestions or precautions related to inlay of ironwork or brass in the surface of a concrete floor? Building a new home next summer and I thought something like that would be an interesting highlight.

Here's a pic of a few bits before they disappeared for Christmas. Mostly the result of trying to turn an experiment/practice technique into something useful. So far useful to enough people to hopefully fund a used chop saw. (Sorry about the color. Crazy cold for the iPhone that day.)

Just catching up with everything. Some really fine work here indeed. I need to look into the mokume; looks great! ...Dave

I like the way the bowl transitions to the handle. What size stock did you start with?

Alex Ivey (SWABA) gave a demo last year on making cowboys hats similar to those in the picture. These are Alex's but obviously aren't all pennies; I couldn't find the pic of the earrings and his other hats but this should give you an idea. Not all pennies are created equal so some care is needed in selection to get a workable copper content.

Thanks to all for the suggestions. There's lots of cautions out there, but I had not realized it was quite this bad. The forge is new enough to have the hard floor and I hadn't seen any discussion about how that held up to flux. I may just order the plate (and flux) from NC but I was trying to return a favor and wanted to have something made this weekend. My coal forge is tucked away in storage so I may just try forging it clean/dry first. Kitty litter? Never would have thought of that; I've used it to clean up garage spills before so it makes sense I suppose. Whoever tried that first was certainly thinking outside the box.

Okay, it wasn't right after I hit return but almost ... obviously there are a number of discussions outside the gas forge forum that focus on fluxes such as: This made me realize I didn't ask the question very clearly: Do I need some type of extra protection for the bottom of my forge?

I have some small projects (e.g. fireplace poker end or maybe a basket on the handle) where I'd like to try my hand at forge welding using the gas forge. (A relatively new Whisper Daddy #2, three burner, doors at both ends.) I've done a hand-full of successful welds using a coal forge, However, I've gotten the general feeling that a few things are a bit different with the gas forge. In particular the type of flux used due to the possible damage to the forge lining from traditional fluxes (borax anti borax). The iForge forums are so extensive (many thanks to all for that!) that I was certain I'd find something related to this. Unfortunately, I've come up empty handed. If there is an existing discussion here or elsewhere, would someone point me that direction? If not, I'm open to any/all advice. ...Dave

Great idea. I had looked at the surface previously when I was trying to determine the top die and I recall it didn't help. I checked again this morning and the reason it didn't help was that the face/edges are still freshly ground. Either it has not been used very much, if at all, or it was freshly ground. (Of course hot dogs don't leave much in the way of nicks either.) The only minor nicks are two that I suspect are from my personal misuse from transporting them in a bucket.

Thanks for the suggestions. In some ways it's more interesting that folks are puzzled. Things finally came together and I now have the entire treadle hammer. BTW - I don't think there's a absolute sure match with the top die so that's not much help. It made the rounds at an artists BBQ a few weeks ago and i understand the guesses were equally insightful. I do have a line on the smith who originally built it. Not a name, but some tips that should get me close (e.g. "a smith who moved from NM back east"), and who was, IMHO, a very good welder. NM is a pretty small community so I just need to ask around at the next meeting. Thanks again for the bits/guesses. I learned something even from those. Cheers.

This was in a bucket of dies that came with a recently purchased treadle hammer. Any ideas of what it might be used for? (I've just propped it in the hardie hole.)