SReynolds

I get it. But where do I locate a sanding attachment?

I finally found the blower. The one folks been talking about for years. That one blower that is unmolested and original. It would appear,to the best of my knowledge, to be all original. I still am not 100% on that as ALL original is quite rare.But,,,,,, it appears to be.......The paint isn't even broken around the housing screws.No cracks. No repairs. The handle also appears original. It obviously is still very much red. Some of the paint is peeking out from under the layers of oil film and coal ash. I just can't get over how quiet these Canedy Otto blowers are. I have been looking through the catalog and still cant quite figure where and when/why they used the name ROYAL and also WESTERN CHIEF cuz it's the same thing. The Royal forges are also Western Chief. But the Western Chief Forges are not a Royal. But the top of the line blower is both. I'd feel bad to take it apart and clean it. The handle is a bit sloppy but I want to use it so maybe...I dunno......fix up the handle with a new one. But then it won't be original. I feel I need to donate it to a museum.

Anyone mounting tools on the anvil outside the normal jig/hardie/fuller/swage? I mean if you have an anvil big enough? A grinder guillotine bench vise and an anvil.

I thought so.....my first tractor!

Unstyled A (or B?) I thought it an oddity the local anvil dealer has this solid cast steel anvil like 60-70 pounds that had no hardie hole. I say's, what up with that. He replied that it is a peter Wright. Ah.........ummmm......no.......... 350.00 out the door. . Kidding me!!?? It aint no PW bro. It did ring like a bell but not super rebound. He was begging me to give 300 for it.

I could be wrong to say so but I remember reading you are new to said trade? My thought ,though it is worth very little; you DON'T want to break into the hobby with some unknown steel/alloy. It breaks apart if you dont work it correctly. If you get lucky, you won't be physically harmed. If you's ain't; then keep bandages etc at hand. If in fact you're new, I very seriously doubt your first projects are big bush knives and tempering chisels And punches (Remember my personal injury warning.) Many of my blacksmithing trade students have no interest in forging a nail/hook/fire poker etc. They can't accomplish that ................but ,still think pearl handled revolvers and Japanese swards are where to begin. You go working on some unknow scrap (literally unknown scrap) and harden it to what you think is right........I'd be wearing some Kevlar body armor when you go strinking that punch and chisel with a hammer If it will allow you to forge it that far.

I had a bit of a chuckle when I read that you get carried away with your bench vise and take a few swings at a hot item. Just struck me funny bone as I am now wondering what you must be using for a bench vise if you are not supposed to do that.

So,,,,, what weighs more; a 130 pound cast iron or 130 pound solid wrought?

Exactly. KISS . . . .because you told me to DRILL SARGENT! !

Two things; One. For them who are interested. Look up Buckeye Furnace. I cant do a link on phone. Reconstruction of charcoal blast furnace. Wellston OH see lots of cool pictures. pig iron was produced. South east Ohio's hanging rock iron region. 1852-1894 sixteen build by the 1840's Two. Iron was not new in early 1800's so......if someone could verify this, a blast furnace took place of a bloom furnace. Yes? Made iron ingots which were actually cast iron and not wrought. Yes?

Not following you on that. I only add bushings/pipe to one of the "pins". I use the horn for most bending so I may not use a jig as much as others. As the bushings grow in dimension I have to move the two pins welded to the angle further apart. I have never required anything larger than a four inch vise jaw. If you got crazy and want an 8" radius I would "imagine" it will require a larger vise jaw. I don't use my 8 inch vise for tasks like bending. I don't bend anything that large/heavy etc. longer lengths of angle would work to expand on size, correct? My sections of angle are about three inches long. If they became 6" long then I imagine all the information I gave in above post goes out the window. Like I say, my angles are about three inches long. I don't really know. I didn't cut them. I have a large amount of them pre-cut in the scrap bin so I simply fish them out. Saves time cuz they are cut to length and I didn't experiment with longer sections.

I would enjoy that. I do travel about to look at the remains of the original furnaces in the area. One is currently restored,but I don't believe it is operating. It is open to the public however.

Yes sir. I see it now. The sockets threw me off. Yes. That is it. I have employed bushings and bearing races etc. Scrap I locate about the workshop I work at and scavenge it up for the blacksmith shop. I have made several welded jigs but they serve only one purpose for one task. When you weld, it pretty much isn't adjustable.

Probably been mentioned and I missed it. I use the KISS bending jig system. Grab you up some scrap steel etc. You need two pieces of angle iron. Say 2" legs. Two 1/2" bolts, say 3" long. Weld one bolt to one section of angle along the threaded portion of bolt only. The non threaded shank is above the angle. cut off the bolt heads. Place the two angles back to back in the vise. Now you have two posts sticking up from the vise. YOU adjust the gap. You are not limited to a plate with holes. YOU adjust the gap. Best part; now start collecting bits of scrap like bushings and bearing races . One slides over the other. AGAIN......YOU adjust the gap. I would challenge anyone out there to invent a cheaper easier adjustable nearly unlimited size jig. You have a four inch wide jaw on the vise? That is roughly your max spacing width. The smallest is ......Obviously. .....1/2" If you originally make the jig from 3/8" bolts then your smallest size is 3/8. If you have six inch jaw or eight inch jaw that is roughly your largest spacing. Two sections of angle. Two bolts welded onto one leg of each angle. Build sizes from that up to what you need. The ones I build are almost free save for the two bolts I weld.

Nice looking unit there Frost. Yes, I have different dies.I dont use the square often. I have seen folks use cutting dies. I don't see it but perhaps I will make a set and rediscover my youth. Nothing is treated. I don't cut the business ends with a torch. If I have to I will cut the opposite end of a die.

At a junk yard? I am so not talking to you.

Southern California? Oh man. Say hello to all the famous horses trainers and jockeys out there. Nyquist is favored for the Ky Derby. I can't tell you what to do. Depends on your time level, equipment level, skill level, money level. I'm a coal guy. I live in coal country. I love the smell, dirt, etc. I would hang out with this custodian in the boiler room at high school cuz they heated w coal. In a garage it makes a mess. But gas forge is quite noisy. I used one once. I have made my own. From brake drum. They work but are not all that user friendly unless you embellish it. I bought two rivet forges and pretty much had to rebuild from ground up. Then I mafe a real fancy table top forge with cliner breaker and all the whistles etc. I work at a historic village part time and use their equipment too. So no hurry for me to buy my own tools etc.but I have tons of stuff now from years of making and buying. I would buy a few tongs. One tong dont fit everything. Make your own in time. You will need the skills required to forge such items. YouTube's how to is awesome. Take notes on items interesting to you. Draw pictures and employ them as you work through the tasks. The skills will develop and items like tongs will become easy.

There isn't room for more jam nuts and yes; the race would spin free of the shaft.

Affirmative. The book says Elm. I believes it too! I only burn small dead elm. Cuz you can't split it. My huge chuck 'o white oak began splitting the first year. Had to make a band. Not one of them decorative types either with the hand made nails. No sir. The real thing. Two, 1.5" x1/8" thick steel bands overlapping ends and tension bolt. Drawing tension on the bolts time to time. I can't see a band ,nailed to the block, holding it tight when it dries and cracks. I poured linseed oil on top of it and into the cracks. Then painted the OD with the oil. Several times.

The jam nuts "set" the cones to the shaft. They tighten onto the shaft because the cones wont move. Without locking parts to the shaft, parts will dislodge. If you tried to use a jam nut and the cone was free-floating, the jam nut wont do you anything but spin free and fall off locking the gear set/shaft.

Not in MY hometown. They work for like; 110.00/hr. The upper cones/races seem far better. However, the rear, high speed shaft, has a much smaller set of bearings compared to the front and the upper shaft. That one seems rusted the worse and even though I could replace the front set with a set from a doner blower case, what about's the rear set? I don't know if the thread size of the shaft and bearing cone(s) exist any longer. It is nothing of this world. The cones thread on/off the shaft(s) to adjust the end thrust.

I have read that. But no. The local machine shop said no. There is another smithing forum ( I know....) where guys report of restoring this one and that one. One fellow said yes. He mounted the shaft with the cone and polished on the lathe . But what about the race??? You do realize that if you replace a taper roller bearing cone and not the race you have accomplished nothing. So though he polished the cone with a stone, what about the race? Rust pits are rust pits. Gotta fix 'em all. They are a quality blower, but......if it's bad you gotta turn the radio way up. I plan to go through a Canedy Otto. They seem quiet when worn out. They clunk and feel loose, but not as noisy .At least not as bad as the 400 as they employ NO ball bearings and races. The inexpensive Champion blowers with no bearings are, as I have seen, very quiet. Even when rusty, on the inside.

I have read the "fact" that one cannot work steel 360° surrounding a bench vise. But unless you mount the leg/post vise to a section of pipe or a long tree trunk buried into the shop floor, you can't operate 360° around a post vise either. A very simple solution is to mount a bench vise onto the top of the anvil. Warn you. Do NOT simply weld the hardie shank to the bottom the the vise mounting plate. I use 1/2" thick steel plate a bit larger than the vise footprint and cut a square hole into the center of that, larger than the OD of whatever the shank size is. Bolt the vise to that mounting plate. Weld that hardie shank INTO the mounting plate. It is embarrassing to have the vise fall onto the floor when folks be watching you work, cuz you simply welded the shank onto the bottom of the mount. Duh! Ooops!! there she goes...... I have done this on several vises I use and thata way.....I don't need but one permanently mounted vise to the work bench.

My experimentation was epic. Failure. The high speed shaft races are far too pitted. I tried the new ball bearing approach as the norm, but I need ear plugs when I rotate this thing. So plan B was the .015" oversized ball bearings. A big no go. They fit ok, if you readjust the location of the (high speed) shaft a bit to the back by 16th of an inch to compensate for the larger bearings. But, with rust pits on the cone and outboard race, the noise is merciless. If you locate a reasonably quiet 400 gear set, buy it. Don't think twice. You ain't buying parts for these to make 'em quiet. I will only add this; if you see one advertised as "turns free" that is in no way any indication of the high speed shaft races. This rotates almost FULL three revolutions all on its own. yet to listen to the howl is not something you'd want to endure.

I have had to band the oak but the elm has never even so much as hinted a crack/split.