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I Forge Iron

Still Learnin'

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Duncan SC
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Bladesmithing, Welding, Hunting, Fishing, Gold Panning, Rock Collecting, Machining, Hot Rodding

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  1. My deepest condolences to Glenn and the entire Conner family. I was so sorry to hear of your loss. You are in my thoughts and prayers. Joe Hehner Resurrection Forge
  2. Please remember Yancey (Yance on here) as his mom passed away Saturday after a short illness. The funeral was today at 2:00 PM in Mt. Airy NC. My condolences and prayers go out to him and his family.
  3. Flop, what ya got there is a Southern Crescent anvil. They were made by the Southern Skein and Foundry Co. in Chattanooga TN. I can't tell ya much more. I knew a fella had one and he loved his. From what I understand they were made similar to the Fishern Norris process whereby a piece of tool steel is incorporated on to a piece of cast during the casting process. Not sure of the whole process myself but they make for a very hard anvil at the price of a cast one. They are quieter than a tool steel or wrought anvil too. Nice find !
  4. Caotropheus, it appears there may be a virus in your external pic. It tried to say my pc was infected and I got out ASAP. The flypress looks like a good find though.
  5. Ok, I've been dreading the "posing" and uploading but I finally did it. In order of size, my 3 anvils are a 70# NC farrier's anvil. The next largest is a 112# Fisher from 1914. It's my favorite and my "Go To" anvil. Last but not least is an unknown make anvil. Some say it's an early English anvil and others think it's a Mousehole. It's been repaired in the past and there was a chunk missing off the face of the heel when I bought it. I since then have hardfaced it with hardalloy 118 on the face after repairing the missing piece. I don't think it originally had a pritchel hole but there was a hole already there. It was either the pritchel hole or a previous repair attempt. The reason I think this is because there are studs on the bottom of the heel going into the anvil. Previous repair attempt ??? IDK The unique thing about this anvil though is it doesn't have a table. Just a large 5"x12-1/2" face. Oh, almost forgot, it's got the hundredweight markings on it. 1-2-10 = 178# I think since the repair it may be 180# now. Joe
  6. If you are going to weld, arftist has done a thorough job of explaining the process. I'd like to add one thing though. In my experience with cast iron I've found that peening the weld lightly after welding and prior to post-heat is extremely important. It lets the molecules reach a state of rest, or so I've been told. My dad has welding countless castings and he would always peen the weld, as well as pre and post heat. If you don't have any nickel rod, you can use stainless rods. If however, as you stated before, are going to braze... I would do the steps you already indicated and just use good old common 1/8" flux coated brazing rod. Drill before throwing the heat to it though because those cracks DO tend to propogate !!! Maybe migrate is a better word. Besides, after you weld cast iron, you couldn't drill it for the world. I don't know the explanation but it makes it like tool steel. I wish you the best in this endeavor. Joe
  7. Cody, I apologize if I came across like you didn't know what you were doing. Thomas is right, you are correct in your steps. I am just slightly anal when it comes to terminology. Hope you understand. I like the looks of your two hatchet heads. I've yet to try one. I think I'm just too tight... errr, frugal and can't stand to forge something that is still serviceable. Maybe one day I'll just "accidentally" drop it in the fire. Then I'll HAVE to forge it !!! I've often wondered if anyone's ever made one with the rasp side "in" ? Would you then still need a wedge ? LOL Again, nice job and keep up the good work !!! Joe
  8. Hey Cody, glad to hear you've been busy at the forge. I don't , no let me rephrase that, I know I'm not the best one to answer your question but seeing as how it's been a day or two with no reply I'll give it a shot. Just my two cents but from what I can gather on your post you seem to have the common misconception of tempering. Tempering is NOT hardening. Tempering is the act of drawing hardness out of an object. When you forge something you rearrange the molecular structure of it and those molecules are often in a state of stress. In essence, forging makes the metal brittle. Tempering simply allows the objects molecules to "relax" as it were. I'm no materials engineer and hopefully one of the bladesmiths on here will see your post and reply as to what type steel farrier's rasps consist of. I wouldn't think you'd have to put the back edge in water though if you were just using an o/a torch though as long as you confine the heat to the edge. There is a fine line between tempering and burning though, so be careful !!! I personally don't think a farrier's rasp has enough carbon content to worry about spot heat treating though. One question I have though, I know some guys who forge rasps into axes and they weld a piece of high carbon for the cutting edge. Is that what you are doing or just using the rasp itself ? That would be the only variable IMHO as to the heat treat. If it's just the rasp I would simply wrap it in foil and put it in the toaster oven at high setting for an hour. Then shut it off and leave it to cool overnight. Polish it, stick a handle in it and last but not least, POST pics for all to see !!! BTW: I find toaster ovens all day long at Goodwill that will go to 500* deg. f for $5 or so. No need to spend money on a GOOD toaster at Wally World when a crappy dirty one will work like a charm. Hope this helped, it's confused the heck outta me !!! Keep your eyes peeled for ads for machine shops closing, etc. I got a nice Blue M heat treat oven at a machine shop sale for $25 !!! It's small and it's analog but it works and it was cheap !!! Joe
  9. Daniel, there is a really good site called searchtempest. You can search C/L within a radius as small as 25 miles up to any distance away from where you want the search to begin. You can even include ebay and amazon listings. All of the suggestions are excellent and you can indeed find anvils or at least ASO's at scrap yards and as gunsmithnmaker said, farms are an excellent source. Almost every farm at one time in the past had to do their own repairs to a certain extent. Many many anvils and forges are just lying around rusting because they are out of sight and out of mind. Even funnier than that is when they are in plain sight but the farmer has gotten so accustomed to seeing it that he basically forgets it as a part of the background. You could also put a post up on C/L for an anvil. Most metal pickers don't pay for their scrap. They only offer to clean up an area of scrap or respond to an offer for free scrap metal. Good luck finding one and welcome to IFI. Stay persistent... they will appear. Joe
  10. Nice job Ian. I like the look and totally appreciate the concept !
  11. It'd be neat to know the "rating" on that hammer ! :o
  12. Ian... that is an excellent solution to a common problem. Archimedes would be proud !!! BTW, my pastor is from South Africa. He does the best baboon impression ! lol
  13. That is a superb anvil, RR track or not but at $13/lb I think I could get more bang for my buck elsewhere. No disrespect to the buyer but $13/lb sounds downright criminal. I'm with Joshua though... what's under it is very (as they say in the hills) purty !!! Honestly though, I'd be proud to have any of their anvils in my shop ! :D
  14. I'd venture a week's wages that those in front would be more than happy to let you play on through ! :o
  15. That is a good job Rory. I personally like the "no pickets" look but that's just me and my "form follows function" mentality. If it ain't broke, don't fix it sorta thing. I'm a minimalist and part of it is because I'm lazy but also because less is more sometimes. You did a good job giving the customer what they want though and that's the important thing. I think we all at some point or maybe at alot of times, have to give the customer what they want even if it's horrid. Money and sense of style don't always go together !!! lol
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