the iron dwarf

welcome to IFI, if you go a little way up the A14 to junction 7 you would be within a mile of my shop, feel free to visit sometime, let me know when and I will let you know when we have the forge in use

here is a block I made for someone recently will get a pic tomorrow of one of the shop anvils I made years ago for newbies to use

I have some 51CrV4 spring steel in 5/8 round, good stuff for drifts

here are a few more random items, 2 stake holders and 2 stakes

at some you may if you are known and those sort of craft shows charge phone number pitch prices.

I trade at lots of types of events in the UK, last weekend it was demoing at a music festival, in a few weeks a major land rover show

well as you can see the tape measure in my pic that is how high I make them unless something else is specified, welding them can be fun, preheat anything over 2" diameter or it will probably crack ( some will still crack but the new ones I buy I know how to treat each size now ).

I do a holder that goes in a stump and a double holder for a VERY  sturdy bench and one for a vice, generally for a hardy hole I put the stop collar on about 3" up from the bottom and for a 1" hardy I add a sleeve of square tube to the shank

here is one of the many stakes I make, most are on a 20mm ( 3/4" ) shank to fit my range of stake holders, I can also fit a 'stop collar' on them for use in a hardy hole and different shank sizes to order.

this is a new 88mm high carbon ball bearing ( about 3 1/2" ) I make ball stakes from ball bearings up to 100mm ( about 4" ) and mild steel schrooms up to 200mm ( about 8" ) diameter.

I also make a wide range of other stakes for armouring and other metalwork

which part of the world are you in?

yes you can normally turn up the pressure relief valve to get more pressure but it will depend on the motor and what the rest of the system is made to take, you can gradually increase the pressure after checking hose ratings and watching the amount of current the motor is taking.

speed is more important than pressure and that will depend on the displacement of the pump.

how much force you get from your press will be dependent on the bore of the cylinder and the pressure.

what is the hp / kw of the motor, I use a 2.2kw at 200 bar and get about 10 ton on a 80mm bore cylinder at a good speed

the hoses on that wont go anywhere near 14,000 psi, that is nearly 1000 atmospheres, if your pump goes to that it would take days to move a 4" bore cylinder, 700 bar is normally considered very high pressure, 200 to 250 bar is more common and most excavators and farm machinery work at more like 100 to 150 bar.

make sure every part of the system will work at above the max pressure you set it to or you could have an accident

you should not have welded a bolt to it as the chances are that you also welded in part of the broken screw, place a suitable size nut over the old screw and weld that on inside then whilst it is still glowing use a spanner to gently turn it first one way then back, have removed thousands of screws from edwardian and victorian ironwork this way and get 98% out first time.

also I can get any thread you need from specialists I deal with like left handed M7 fine with a choice of square, hex, socket, slotted, countersunk, raised and many more in ali, titanium, bronze, stainless and many more metals ( thread you were after was probably whitworth or UNC )

TPI and outer diameter is what you need to know, try your local power transmission place, they sell pulleys, v belts, sprockets, chain, bearings and lots more and should be able to identify it

top tooling is like top tooling for a fly press, toolholder is 1" bore and 2" deep with a grub screw.

bottom tool slides in and can be locked in place.

for shipping it weighs 30kg aprox but would need packaging well and may have to go on a pallet so look up shipping costs for 50kg and 18" by 30" by 12" from england to the us

how about one that is 30kg?

yes it is 30.23kg

unless you can find someone who needs that exact motor it will be hard to sell, it was made in 1948 so will not be as standard and interchangable as modern motors

remember not all 3 phase motors will run on your converter, most of the cheap converters will only run motors that can be connected delta, some of the more expensive ones can run them wired up for star and generally it is best to get a bigger converter than the motor ( also clarke is not a GOOD brand, they are the cheapest ones machine mart can get from china )

motor frame size is on the plate, this gives shaft size and mounting hole positions, it is an imperial size so you will have to do a little work to get a metric motor to fit but it is not hard

you will need to get a flange mount 2hp 1400 rpm motor, change the coupling to one to fit the motor which should have a 24mm shaft and make a plate to go over the old mountings with new studs or threaded holes to match the new motor, if you are lucky you can just drill and tap new mounting holes

that is not the amount missing, if the follow the curves on both top and bottom it probably started off 6mm longer when new than it is now.

neither the top nor the bottom were ever straight as your straight edges clearly show

if you place your lower straight edge so it touches the underside near the join with the body it will show you would need to add another 150mm at least to where your present end is

so how are you planning on rehardening the face?

if it had a tool steel face on a cast steel body you need to convert the cast steel into toolsteel by adding certain elements to it below the present tool steel face, if you have a process for this many people would be interested

Hi Henry

which part of the uk are you in?

im in northants and know a bit about presses.

as the motor on that is only 2hp it will probably be a lot cheaper to replace the motor with a single phase one.

what type of valve gear does it have, you can save lots of time on each stroke by setting the travel to the minimum for the job in hand

a 2 speed going fast for 8" of wasted stroke then slows when it is in contact with the work as it switches to higher force will not be as fast as a single speed that starts 1/4" from the stock and does not slow down, my single speed is often used at more than one stroke per second and maybe over 10 seconds getting 12 to 15 strokes in when drawing out.

a customer of mine bought a hardy tool from me, is was the vaughns brand and unused, he asked if he could use my grinder to reshape it, after warning him I let him, soon the sound changed and so did the sparks as the grinder bit.

he stopped and looked at it and then asked why it looked like two layers of metal so I explained again about the thin hard layer on top as I did before he started.

even if you dont go through the hard layer you can thin it so it will break up like an ice sheet, it may break the first time it is used or after a month or a year.

2mm could be 100 years of life lost, sharp edges are not desirable nor is a sharp horn and if you need any of them or a smooth face make a hardy tool,

I even sell blocks of 4140 about 4" by 4" and 2" thick as hardy tools that are smooth on top and have sharp edges but you can grind a radius as required without damaging your anvil, cost about $25 made to suit your hardy hole

3 hours ago, Mtnstream said:

He took a couple of mm off, big deal....it's just a tool to be used as the owner sees fit. Oh no.... he might hit it with a hammer next!

yes, its like buying a Stradivarius ( nor sure of spelling ) and thinking the varnish looks a bit dull so taking a sander to it and putting on a nice new coat of polyurethane varnish on it

Ianinsa is one member who may be able to help,

try here

https://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/41-south-african-highveld/

find a post by ianinsa and send him a message, I dont know when he was last here

glass has a low melting point and would melt long before you got the forge hot enough to use

which part of the world are you in, maybe someone local can help you

you could ask the makers to give you the formula so you could make some

show some pictures of the damage to the horn before you weld it please

we may need better pictures and other people here are better at identification than me

second number can only be 0,1,2,3, as it is quarters

the numbers look to me like 4   3   10

this is the English hundredweight system.

4 hundredweight 4x 112 pounds   448 pounds

3 quarters 3x 28 pounds   84 pounds

10 pounds   10 pounds

total 542 pounds is about 245.8kg

it may have lost some weight over the years or I may have missread the middle number

your English is good, my Ukrainian is not even bad, I do not know a single word in your language

I visited Kiev in 1992 for a week