the iron dwarf

this is great, thank you for sharing it with us.

it is good to see how portable you can go, I made what I consider the smallest practical hydraulic forging press, just over 10 tons but weight 30kg  and it has had a few uses since I made it.

many years ago I visited Kiev

you of course have legal proof of this?

people have copied my work in the past, they regretted it.

there is very little to stop you saying you own the rights to mc donalds golden arches logo and that I can make things with it on but mc donalds would very soon have something to say about it if I went into production

so do you own the rights to produce this item or is it ok to produce something designed and made by someone else?

what if someone did this to your work?

a lot of items are protected worldwide

we had a sahindler, big concrete pad about 4 foot deep to floor level then new wooden railway sleepers ( ties ) on top to raise it 6" as recommended in the manual IIRC

I would normally consider end mills and slot drills as consumables and as they are only a few $ ( or here a few pounds ) am happy to buy a replacement when needed.

yes there are different cutting angles for different materials.

worn spindle bearings, incorrect feed and speed, coolant, loose slideways and much more can cause chatter.

and TJ Smith, if you know it all why bother asking for help

2kw is a bit small to be useful for forging, I have a 15kw and that is still small

here in england making structural steelwork for buildings as in the last pic and making the gates and window bars would be a fabricator, putting up the steelwork for the building in the last pic would be a steel erectors job

if you contact the maker they can give you the specs of the blades, ( if they want to ) then you can get better advice here on how to fix them but as something like that could be a huge liability issue if something went wrong I can understand john deere not wanting to help much

thank you G

rail track at least here is generally quite good and unlike a knife it does not need to hold an edge, it is quite a bit of work to make a knife and much better steel is cheap ( like old files, springs or sway bars )

different makers will use different steels for the blades and each type will behave differently, check the specs with the maker

railroad spikes are normally not much better than mild steel

about 12" / 305mm, no markings visible yet, still reasonably sharp, blades are about 2 1/2" / 60mm.

maybe for splitting wood?

was it galvanized steel? that can leave a white deposit

then you know what you must keep away from copper

you want to know about advanced things without learning basics first?

what metal do you want to melt?

what experience do you have of handling molten metal?

do you have the safety gear and know how to use it?

do you know what a single drop of water can do?

have visited the tyzack works at sheffield a year or two ago, big trip hammers there and grinders powered by water wheels

well I am on the wrong continent for you, shipping would cost a lot unless you knew someone in the US military here

I presume that they were from a forge and not something designed for much lower temps like an oven, otherwise you may do a lot of work for nothing.

what do the makers say about their use?

casting is not something for a beginner, get some training from experienced people first before you have an accident.

get the right safety gear.

what do you want to make?

never rely on you tube, 99% of stuff on there is dumb and a lot of it is dangerous and dumb

there are some on there who seem to want people to get an award, are you sure you want to be the next darwin award winner

ask first if it has had the edges repaired or welded on then check them carefully, if they have then $1 a pound is more like it if it has been welded on and tell the seller that.

if welded with normal rods or wire the edges will be soft and will mushroom over very soon also the oriinal face will be more damaged nearby, if welded with hard facing rods as well as face damage the weld can break off in chunks

tried twisting some 25mm ( 1" ) square tube today for the first time, worked ok for a first attempt I think

35 minutes ago, old school blacksmith said:

guys HOW WAS I SUPPOSE to know it is one of the worst mixtures that I could use!!!...... look; I'm just in need of a mixture that is cheap and it can hold up to forge temps for a few good go around(s). so here's the question that I'm actually asking; what mixture could.... dang got to go back to work i'll type the rest of it in a few hrs

research will tell you that it was no good as would basic chemistry ( its a hydrate so it includes water, get it hot and it loses the water and goes back to dry powder, very hot and it does it very fast ).

if you do a little research in the gas forge section rather than here in induction heating you will find answers or you could try reading the answers you have been given several times already here by posters like thomas powers rather than ignoring them and asking the same thing again

57 minutes ago, old school blacksmith said:

guys I'm just looking for temporary ways for my forge to hold together and Thomas it may hold up for SMALL quantities of steel or iron right? theatrically?!  also any else can put their remarks or ideas to this if you want. AND I do know how to research things; FYI: I'm a gaming, history, and science nerd. and when I mean nerd I mean I mess around in it. also I'm taking all of your guys' advice very seriously so don't think I'm blowing your advice off!

depends on how hot you want your forge to get for how long it lasts, keep the temp down below the boiling point of water and it will last a while, get it to forging temp and it may last seconds or at best minutes.

IF you know how to research then why use what is well known as the worst mix, plaster of paris will be a hydrate which means it bonds to water, get it hot and the bonds break, very hot and it can be explosively, sand can be used as a flux for forge welding as it will liquefy at that sort of temp and neither of them insulate so the casing of your forge will be red before it gets to welding temp, you will also be using 10 times as much gas as you need IF it can get to welding temp without your burner melting / catching fire

quite a few of us look like we have had a couple of hundred years of hard use

that hammer is for planishing, mostly used on thin sheet for things like car bodies, it will be a bit light for forging