the iron dwarf

it seems to be lacking in limit switches to control stroke, you dont want the piston to have to travel its full length each time and you want to be able to stop it when it gets down far enough and that needs to be easy and quick to change, also you may need to prevent the rod from rotating.

on my iron dwarf forging press thread you can see I used a big end of a con rod to do both

38 minutes ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

IC, I imagine if I wanted to buy a truck load they would deliver anything

I can order a single length of 5/16 and they will deliver it for 10 pounds when next through town ( normally twice a week )

my next order to them will be 20 lengths of 1/2", 10 lengths of 1/4" and 2 lengths of 5/8 round,

should last me 2 weeks and with more from my friend John we should get free delivery

at least here we can get steel delivered

if I spend 150 uk pounds ( about $190 at a guess ) then delivery is free, if I spend less it costs 10 uk pounds ( about $12 )

this is for 20 or 24 foot lengths and they come from 100 miles away

the cement will break up very soon

have seen video on here of a team welding a face on an anvil, Thomas will probably know it, if it can be found it may help you see the mammoth task you have if it is a major repair

yes it will be fun but it will take a lot of organization and preparation and will be a lot of hard work for a large team of people, it may nor work well or at all

as TP said if it is just 1/4" deep v it and weld, if it is 3" it is a different problem.

if you want to fix it the way it was made you need people there who are experienced at forge welding because I presume you are not

did you test it like I told you?

get a small hammer and tap the surface all over, mark with chalk the area that sounds hollow then post a picture of it

so it does not go across the width of the anvil at all?

the body of the anvil is not cast it is WI, how much experience of welding that do you have?

first test the surface with a small hammer and mark the entire area that sounds hollow with chalk, next post a picture of that.

the problem is a failed forge weld and it might be over a large area

how deep is the crack?

you cannot just weld the surface or it will break up, you need to weld the entire area of the crack and then maybe re heat treat the anvil.

this is a major task.

post some pix and details about the anvil

keep looking and you will find one, use what you have got for now, look out for a large chunk of steel, even a big sledge hammer head.

there is a vid of smiths in nepal making blades for kukris using a sledge hammer head between their feet as they sit on the floor

yes it has to be recent

drill a tiny hole in the underside of it, cast iron bbonsswarf will be powder of small flakes, steel will be longer ribbons.

cannon recently got done for wrongly labeling stuff, fined £25,000 for selling things with a ce mark they should not have and I think stock was destroyed too.

hit a corner or the face with the hammer at an angle

our main shop anvil is in good condition but dates from 1730 ish and it gets regular heavy use and abuse, that thing would not last us a week but it is your money to spend as you like ( and I know how the scots like to spend it

awaiting a delivery of 200kg plus of bearing balls ( about 1/5th of a ton ) up to 100mm dia (4" )

new ones

if you bought it on a certain auction site and it was described as steel start a dispute for SNAD

item significantly not as described

you will get your money back and the seller will have to pay to get it sent back to them

I have members within 5 miles of me

you are 80 miles from me

dont drop a ball bearing on that anvil any bigger than 20mm, hope you did not pay much for it, yes I know who the wholesalers and importers are of that,

a bit of rail or fork lift fork would be far better, they are £69.99 but worth about £6.99 as a boat anchor or door stop.

model number is CT2736 from cannon tools who import from india and china and sell tools to market traders and car booters

here I found out today that you can buy wooden soled leather shoes / boots suitable for some periods of historic reenactment with added steel toe caps to meet modern safety needs

thank you G, after a bit more checking have made a few tools today to test it

was given a quantity of 51CrV4 at the weekend, it is 16.5mm diameter ( just over 5/8" ) and im wondering what to use it for or if to sell it to those who can use it

http://www.steelnumber.com/en/steel_composition_eu.php?name_id=198

it contains 0.9 to 1.2% chrome and 0.1 to 0.25 vanadium as well as other things so am going to find out more about it before using it

65% is poor

1/2" to 1" would be a good size

try over different parts of the table

cast iron is bad

cast steel CAN be good if it has a tool steel top or is made from a very good grade of steel.

a decent new one can cost you over a grand but there are a million bad ones for each good one.

who is the maker or is it a no name chinese import that you can get for 50 quid at the wholesaler.

well I think he knows best and has more years of experience than us lot so I dont think we can help any more

you have a pm

top of the screen  click on the envelope

with mesh to keep the coals off the tue it wont matter about your shutter, the whole area will be the fire just with less heat as the air can go anywhere under the mesh whilst the mesh keeps the hot coals up, when it collapses it will be more controllable till your pipe melts.

so you need a fire nearly the size of that barrel?

if you turn it up to get enough heat it will use bags of fuel per hour?

have made them for swords with only 6 holes of 6mm each with the holes at an angle with pairs at opposit angles so you dont get hot spots but a continuous fire

will your mesh stand 1500c for a long time in an oxidizing enviroment ( my simple forge gets to well over 2000c ) and I agree a bit of rail or a cube of steel would be better for an anvil

my forges use a single 11mm hole in the middle, and not through steel but 20mm thick cast iron and I can get a fire from 2" TO 12" diameter easily with that, what are you working that you need such a huge fire?

you will find fuel goes very fast that way ( I can get 3 days of 8 hours forging from one 20kg bag of coke )

you will prob soon see stephen jones on here, he is IIRC between edinbourgh and glasgow, dont know how far that is from you but he is closer than I am