Everything posted by gerald
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Drawing Transfer
Here's help for those of you who have struggled with transferring a drawing of a project from paper to sheet metal. Buy some tracing paper from a sewing supplies place (mine came from Wally-World). It's cheap, maybe $1.50 for a package of several sheets. Place a sheet of tracing paper between your paper drawing and the sheet metal and trace over the lines. The transfer is quick and accurate and you are now ready to upgrade the drawing with soapstone. This stuff comes in multi-color packs, but the white and the yellow sheets are the best for this work.
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it's hard to HATE a hare
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zeal for a good slab of VEAL
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... or build a fire of PEAT
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...and afterwards TINT his hair...
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Dong - the other half of Strine's "bell ringer"
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E-Scrabble All right, this is kind of silly, but it's neat to see the progression. The cattle site that I copied this from is up to 78 pages of responses. Change one letter of the last word posted (by me at the bottom) and see who gets stuck and can't continue! Rules: 1. You cannot add letters. 2. No foreign words. 3. Change only one letter 4. Remember, this is a family forum, so keep it clean. Only use words that you wouldn't mind explaining to your 7 year old grandaughter. ---------------------------------------------------------------- STARTING WORD -lime ----------------------------------------------------------------
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anvil rust
The oily rag does two things for you. First, it provides a water barrier, and second, it keep the little particles of dust, etc that blow around the shop from getting on the surface of the anvil and attracting water.
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Hammer and Tongs
Too high for forging, that's for sure, but just about the right "drinking height" for a bar surface.
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Tricks of the trade
When your coal fire has died down but is still warm, throw in a hand full of sawdust and put the air to it. It will come back up in short order.
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Viking padlock
Nick, nice job on the lock. Do you have more details of the spring piece ? How about a Blueprint for a Tuesday Nite session? I'd like to see it if you can put one together.
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Vise lubrication
HWooldridge... Now that's a heck of an idea. A blacksmith's "Bearing Buddy". :)
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punch making
When you re-heated the punch after it broke, you probably over heated the metal beyond its safe forging temp. Some car springs won't tolerate bright orange/yellow heat. Cut yourself a new piece and try to keep the forging temp at a mid-orange. As you forge, stopp hitting it when it cools to a bright red. The forging "window" on some of this stuff is fairly narrow. When heat treating unknown steel, it's best to start out quenching in a less severe medium (oil). If it doesn't get hard enough with oil, then try water. Go to the local Thrift Store and buy an old toaster oven for your shop (I found one at Goodwill for $3). Use it to temper your punches, etc after hardening. Just bring it up to temp (300, 400 degrees) put the stuff in and leave them alone for about an hour. Turn the oven off (unplug it) and let everything cool to room temp before taking the tools out.