ianinsa

I have a press with a simple quick change system copied from a hand operated punch like Mubea. Chek out your local tool suply place because if you use a tried and tested system you can also buy their ready made up tooling for some aplications. Regards Ian

Hi There, I have spent good few grand over the years on Autocad drafting services, not that I can't draw myself but a good draftie can hammer out drawings realy fast like heaps faster than me on the board. We then get them printed full size on A0 prints(not plueprint type but cheap photocopy print) it is just easier prior to plasma/profile cutting and checkin in real size prior to laser cutting. We also stick the drawings to our s/s welding tables for ballustrade and gate designs and just copy the paterns.by overlaying, This really helps our employees that have technical skills but little "artistic" forte' Sticking prints on corrugated cardboard(read old boxes) and mocking up also saves heaps of time and money so I don't begrudge spending bucks on the drafting side. I also use the autocad drawings to get vinyl cutouts for acid etching dies for our presses and powerhammer you easily get the handcrafted look that is a mission with the milling machine. All the best Ian

what size pipes are you trying to bend? I have quite a lot of kit in my Kyalami factory and I just bought one in Dubai for a grand a few days ago It will be here in a couple of days, some of my mates want to copy it, I also have a Hossfelt that is easy to copy. Let me know? I now live in Durban but I come up to the reef often. regards Ian

Hi Hollis, I regularly do copper rooves on palaces in Abu Dhabi, these require large corbeled cornice shapes to the sides, we use guilders metal for this as it is 90/10copper technically this is a type of bronze and behaves much like both copper and brass. I always use propane/buthane torches the material is 0.45mm thick sheet and is a doddle to solder if you first clamp then whilst soldering use a wet sweeper cloth(chamoise)to follow up, This sets the joint and you leave in place while you do the next bit thereby solving the problem of the finished joint poping while you work on the next bit. Makita make a powerfile in 2 sizes that are great for precleaning and final clean-up. Black and Decker used to make a really cheap one too if you can still get them, if this is a once off then buy the B&D as they work well in every way exept longevity.We tend to use plumbers solder and 2mm acid cored solder wire, costs a dash more than radiator S5 sticks(wich we self cast)but you save a whack in time of soldering and clean-up ! Have loads of fun Ian _

Guys, etching metal is easy using the right product/mordant; Aluminium = 3pts water 1pt hydrocloric acid copper & brass = 3pts water 1pt nitric acid sterling & nickel silver also Pewter/ Zinc based alloys = 3pts water 1pt nitric acid Monel = 1pt Nitric acid 1pt acetic acid Stainless steel = 2pts Nitric 3pts Hydrocloric acid All these work better when warm, sometimes slower is better. this recipe for s/s will etch 1mm in 30 secs. if hot? Always add acid to water and mind the fumes. Good luck Ian

very nice, very very nice.

I recon the biggest downside to this tool is going to be the lady behind the check-in desk at American airlines,

I recon the biggest downside to this tool is going to be the lady behind the check-in desk at American airlines,

I can't seem to get Marcus's stuff to download, The evenfalls stuff was easy, What am I duffing up?

Thanks this is great.I was fontunate to buy the full set of Practical Blacksmithing vols 1-4 for $400 about 4 years ago. This was'nt bad for books more than a century old. All in good nick from a book collector.

We use it as agregate in cement bricks the only bugger is iron oxide(heaven only knows where this came from) makes the bricks rust. It also works a treat as insulation!

Hi, I had proposed the bolt on plate solution based on the presumption of it being a cast anvil, also using lead rather than the weld solves the problem of the plate cracking loose from the anvil due to hammer blows, and it softens the 'feel' whilst giving good 'bounce'. P.S. have you thought of becoming an 'Anvil Trader' most of the guys I know struggle to find used anvils? Anyhow anything over 30mm should work (sorry for the metric)If you have acsess to a large drill press then go for something a big thicker.

I recon your most cost effective solution is to cut back to square the face and then mount a section of thick plate say 2inch thick depending on what you can get easily and cheaply. Go visit your local profile cutting shop and see what they have you might even get hardface plate, they often have off-suts of thick plate that they may let you have at scrap value then attatch this mechanically ie drill & tap(min 16mm fine) the anvil and bolt through with countersunk bolts using an impact driver to securely tighten the bolts. then leadfill the gaps by warming the plate and the anvil and using 'spirits of salts' as a flux. Please mind the fumes they are toxic. Good luck on this. P.S. that other anvil was a steal.

Those gates look hot, you are'nt messing around trying to save a few bucks on cheap and cheerful can't wait to see the end result. As for welding in the rain use Tig, that way you really know when you complete the circut! Keep up the good work.

That thing looks great, I supose when it ain't huntin season you could always revert to small dogs? I tried it in china and I supose as they say its in this preperation not the product!

That's a brillaint piece of work for a youngster,my boys just want to weld up go carts etc.or use ironworkers and triphammers to mangle things. Obviously dad has got the touch! keep it up , Regards from Durban South Africa.

This looks great, we use a similar system for large candle sticks if you plan to do a fair number of these it is useful to make up a 'gallows' bracket with a small clamp on the end wich you use to clamp your upright in this helps to get it plumb and then you weld on the legs! good luck