Steve Shimanek

If it turns out to be an issue, modifying the arrangement won't be difficult; i have used commercial air and mechanicals before, but this is my first try at building one. Hopefully i learned something as a mechanical type in the Army all those years ago and will be close on the first try.

I had considered that idea, but all of the hammers I have seen of this design had a similar arrangement to what i am using; do you have any photos or video of the arrangement you suggest in action?

The top of the ram has a set of rollers above and below the spring to allow for the arc of the spring as it reciprocates. Still thinking about the other end where the cylinder will be, if it needs the same arrangement or not. I might just arrange it with a pivoting connection at the cylinder rod end and connect it to the spring eye. Once i get the spring pack connected to the pivot axle and finish the guide box, i can do some unpowered experiments to see how it will work.

Mainly it was the head height; i didn't want the cylinder sticking up, and using available materials i couldn't figure out how to mount the cylinder and guide the head easily. It would have made the design more complex, and I also like the idea of the built in buffer action of the spring to cut down on excess vibration. Building without plans so hope it all works out

I went with fixed dies on this project, and the ram is not able to come out without surgery due to unanticipated geometry. If it needs to come out I will have to cut off the die to remove it. The bearing material is polypropylene from kitchen cutting board, field expedient available material, and may have brass shims behind it if needed to take up space. I still need to drill and tap adjusting screws for the guide. I will be using a hydraulic cylinder powered by air to drive the hammer.

Made some more progress; working out the geometry of the moving parts...

I am using one for the anvil for my power hammer build, nice tough steel! I found mine at a scrap yard.

I just put 1/2 down on a new air compressor to run my beast in progress....it is a Campbell Hausfield 5 hp 2 stage with 80 gallon tank rated at 17 cfm at 175 psi. I will put it in after the first of the month when the eagle flies and I make space in the shop and make a new circuit for it.

Very elegant and deceptively simple!

Ohio, you have a great sense of humor and writing style; if you write a book, sign me up for a copy

Not much relief from the heat around here at 16 degrees south; frozen smoothies for lunch are good, and i keep a small refrigerator full of water in the shop, along with multiple doo rags and welders caps to swap out to keep the eye drip to a minimum.

I made some progress; the anvil is welded, as is the column and the brace between them (just tack welded in photo.) I need to source some more parts and start on the tup and air system.

I started this recently using scrap materials; tracked excavator hammer bit for the anvil, track excavator C frame welded together for the pillar, and a defunct weigh scale for the base. I may use a hydraulic cylinder for power by shop air, with a guided helve style envisioned. Funds are limited so it may take a while to complete.

I would put an in-line oiler on it and use air tool oil. Better safe than solly.

I just got a used Garrett Sea Hunter Mark 2; it arrived in the mail yesterday. I did a quick test at a local beach and found some aluminum can scrap, verified it worked. Later at home, i checked out the driveway and found a bunch of nails, pennies, and other assorted junk. Lots of iron in the rocks here, will be great when i set up a smelter. I might hit the beach this morning for a while....

Hi Bob and welcome. A hair dryer may produce more air than you want; a waste gate is a good idea, such as a Tee fitting. Coal fires are nice for precision heating....good luck.

Nice lathe!

Photos help; i haven't logged onto this site in a while, but i spend a lot of time on the Nihonto Message Board.....lots of helpful people there. Some decent photos, and you should get some educated opinions.

Welcome back; been gone a while myself….and moved to American Samoa. A couple of those knives would look great with my kilt….alas, I am a Scotsman and am still building my house and shop, or….. Hopefully someday i will have at least one of your (master) pieces, I am hoping for one of your katana. Good luck with the move!

Looks functional, what do the kanji mean and how did you etch them?

nicely done; tell us how you did the fittings.

we save our quarters for the laundromat and refilling drinking water.

Sweet! I like the hamon and the etched calligraphy and sheath….nice package!

Aluminum is only forgeable within a narrow heat range; too hot and it disintegrates, too cold and it cracks. Try experimenting with scrap pieces first.

To reduce scale?