Mike Turner

Hey Ty I know that wrought likes to tear like that. Did you keep the heat up on it? I actually like the last shot you posted the best, I also like the texture of the wrought over the other one as well. That finish looks real nice gives it an older feel to it like it has been around. So when are you doing the other? Did you etch it at all?

Hey Ty I see you got the wrought, that looks pretty cool. The split is a little big for my liking but my wife says I have no taste anyway :roll:.

Ok so what is this? This is the chrome plated rod that I have. http://www.pmtsco.com/CHROME2.HTM And does this apply to the chromium steels that we use like 5160 and 52100?

Walker, I remember seeing it and saved it somewhere so I went and found it on my computer. Here is a link that has the copostion of D6A https://www.continuinged.purdue.edu/pdf/contents.pdf

If I remember that is a blade from a wood miser. I don't have any idea as what the steel really is, I would contact wood miser see if they will tell you. I do know it is not D6. Most band saw blades make great knife material.

Thomas so forging chromium steels is dangerous? I have not heard of anyone getting sick or dying from forging 5160 or 52100, should we not use these steels? Sorry D. Bernard don't want to hijack your thread but I use these steels a lot, I also use a chrome plated 1050 rod that is used for hydrolic cylinder shafts. So I was just wondering about these steels.

I agree with Thomas, really track makes a terrible anvil. You can usually get a piece of large steel for 30 cents a pound at your local metal yard. Take a look. It is better to keep the mass in line, but if you really want to build one there has been some good tutorials on other forums I will try and find them and post it here.

patrickrock, The neo tribal guys use hardwood ash to line their forges. Tai Goo does a lot of neo tribal smithing. if you want more info I would contact Tai Tai Goo Knives - custom hand forged knives -neo-tribal blades

Thanks all for the very kind words. I have quite a few just about finished and will be posting them soon and as often as I can.

Hi Ellen, I was going to post that little saying about farriers, but did not know how the smiths here would take to me stroking my ego a bit. Farrier work is tough work and can be very dangerous. The cost of tools would almost bankrupt you, my shoeing box alone has $1200.00 you can get cheaper tools but I can't stand tools that will not hold up. If you have a good shoer keep him happy. I know the main 2 reasons I fire a customers is bad horses or bad paying customers

I second Glenn, your going to want to try them on also look up safety supply houses we are a small town and have one.

Try ebay Sam, you may find something there.

The best prices I have found on bits is a www.use-enco.com I use HSS like Jr said they don't like heat. Most people run there drills way to fast, slow it down and your bits will last. If anyone has a better source let me know.

Thanks Thomas that was very informative, I had never thought about the handmade look being the result of trying to compete against the machine. You are absolutely right about old does not mean that it is crude in anyway. Some of the finest work is very old. Not only did I want to see some of the forging marks I really did not have the time to really hammer finish the shoe. BTW thanks for the comment.

Hey all, This is my first knife that I had done, I started this last December and took me a few months to get'er done. This was made for my father who like to hunt upland game. I forged the blade using 1095, 1084 and 15N20 to 60 layers and twisted it. The scales are elk antler with SS pins the bolsters are pre civil war wrought iron from anchor chain the pins are mild steel. I hope you all like it, I know I make pertier horseshoes. Thanks for looking.

Thanks guys I thought the hammer marks would be really appropriate as she also does pioneer re-enactments and it says it was forged.

Alan my condolences to you and your family, we are all here for you.