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I Forge Iron

bnewberry

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Everything posted by bnewberry

  1. I like the flow of the top line (back or spine). The dropped point and angle of the edge to the handle should make this one a good wood working (fuzz sticks etc.) design. The edge near the tip looks like it could use a bit of refinement. I would also like to see the leather (?) underlayment on the handle be completely covered by the wrap. All in all I like it!
  2. Epoxy is what I use. If the glue line is not visible (stick tang, hidden tang) I have used JB weld with good results so far. Otherwise I use a 30 minute epoxy. I like Corby bolts instead of rivets. I got them from Jantz knife supply, (http://www.knifemaking.com/Default.asp).
  3. This one was heat treated professionally (in other words, not by me). Embarrassing, but true.
  4. Here is another try, hopefully without funky reflections! And a top view of the handle:
  5. The steel is 0170-6C and the blade has a full length tang about 3/5 of an inch wide. The handle is desert ironwood. The blade is actually shiny, the color is due to reflections.
  6. Here is the most recent knife completed. Mostly stock removal as I'm transitioning to a gas forge (which isn't done) and am out of charcoal.
  7. :) Nor those plastic cutting boards to say nothing about the tempered glass!
  8. What kind of cutting board does she use? If it isn't wood, then I know the next thing you are going to make for her, or get her!
  9. Very nice! Great camera work and of course, it is nice to see tools being made.
  10. I admire your works clean lines and geometry. I am warming up to your handle treatment! At first I wasn't sure about a wrapped handle, but the more I see of this the more I think I might like to try it myself. Good work as always sir!
  11. Very nice knife, and not just for a first knife. Keep going!
  12. Do I say bueno! Or Bonita! The knife has good lines and the sheath is very functional and nice looking. The handle is very pretty.
  13. Nicely executed all the way around. Very nice pattern and colors!
  14. A friction folder is the easiest type of folder to make and a fun project. The link is to a post here on iforgeiron about a friction folder I built not too long ago. The parts I used were: 1 star head pivot bolt 2 brass liners 2 brass bolsters 2 bits of wood 1 small bit of aluminum for the back of the handle 1 blade forged out of a file You could do without bolsters and liners if you used a tough enough handle material (micarta or G10 etc.) Some people use a brass rod for the pivot, peening it to keep it in.
  15. Looking good! I like the Viking or "Blacksmith" knife quite a bit!
  16. Well, maybe when you do your second knife you will get it right. That was sarcasm! Your knife looks amazing! If you hadn't said it was your first I wouldn't have guessed that it was. Very nice!
  17. Very nice work! Love them both!
  18. That is a really fine bit of knifemaking.
  19. Thanks for the kind comments. I realize now I should have posted this in the folding knife section. Sorry about that! This was my first attempt at a folder. I've done two fixed blade previously. The folder was more challenging! The blade was my first forge attempt. It was pretty ugly but the grinder got rid of most of the evidence. I'm pretty happy with the results. I'll try a slip joint sometime in the future.
  20. Here is my first friction folder. Forged blade from file, heat treated and tempered in the forge as well. Convex grind and a bottle opener built in.
  21. Extremely nice! Can you tell us more about the process of pouring the pewter?
  22. Is that the only crack? The reason I ask is that it appears to be at the rear bridge. This part of the action isn't subjected to nearly as much stress as the front bridge because the front of the action (where the barrel screws in) is where the bolt lugs engage locking lugs in the action itself. I'd say that the action was improperly tempered, left too hard, and subjected to stress of some sort, but not necessarily an over-pressure round.
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