Gayle Brooks Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 The topic name is the job name in the studio. We are building 2 chandeliers for this client. The one I will be sharing is the larger one. It had 3 rings to it. The largest, bottom ring is 5 feet in diameter. Since this chandelier is a focal point, I figured it would be important where the points of focus would be. That way if I had a lamp that was not a pretty as the others, there would be a place to put it with little to no distraction. So there are 15 lamps in total. In which I numbered them and will use this reference for assembly. Currently it is me and our apprentice making this. I was handed a sample of what the lamps on the chandelier will look like. We had the apprentice make the rings, I started on the bars with the forged tabs on the end. These bars are 1/2" x 9 1/2" long. I was to upset each end 1/2." When we start mass producing these parts, kind of get in a production run. I used a torch and a swage block that had a 1" concave shape on it. I was aiming to get it up set and the first initial flatten in 3 heats and keep it under 5 min. I notice while I was forging these, the swage was bouncing around and alot of energy was being transferred in that motion, and not the steel. So a quick bungie to tie it down. That saved me one heat and got it down to 3 min. Minutes saved like this are great because they add up so quickly. The 3 pieces to the right of the center punch are the steps to get to the button shape. Next was using the press, I'll get some pics of this next week. But in a nut shell I had a block setup with a 1/4" shoulder on it and squished the mass I upset to get a nice little button. and the jig to find center for my holes. There is a hole on the back that you cant see, I used a transfer punch to index them. and then assembly! Ill let this pic do the talkin Thanks for reading! Ill post more soon. -Rory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gayle Brooks Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 Here is a shot of the press tool I was using to create the button, its a one heat squishing. Typically when I start assembly they are off a little. As much as 3/8" off center of the other ring. I clamp it down and use a bending fork to grab it. It will bend at the weakest point which is at that shoulder. The riveting tool I use is a punch. Im able to reach down there, have my hands clear and hit the rivet exactly where I want. If the piece starts to get to hot to handle I use a magnet to hold my rivet while I flip it over and get it in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beth Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 rory these pictures are brilliant - youre so on top of this it makes me feel like giving up!! cant wait to see the finished thing. my brain just doesnt work like yours - total respect! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Double Y Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Great step-by-step photos...I am very interested to see how the whole works comes together Nicely done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Very nice, thanks for the pictures. Why did you choose to head the rivets on the inside? I suppose you wanted to preserve the button head on the outside and get a smooth inside. Usually faster/easier to use a countersink rivet on the inside and a decorative hammered head on the outside. Sometimes it's necessary, here you had your choice. There is no "right" way to do it, it's all choices. More! We want more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gayle Brooks Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 Thanks! Yes, the hole was counter sunk on the inside and the round head of the rivet is visible on the outside. There will be a blown glass vessel inside here holding the light. The inside being as sooth as possible is pretty important. There will be some minor cleanup after all this is put together. Being I am given the prototype, I have to stay as close as possible as well and follow the same look. In the mean time when Im doin this, I also have to forge some tapers out of 6" of 1 1/8" square bar. We have 6 hammers in the shop. On the side I work on is a 100lb little giant and a 75lb Bull air hammer. Using those 2 hammers together I can typically get these done with in 30 min. Ill post more of these when i can. Thanks again for reading! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gayle Brooks Posted February 20, 2010 Author Share Posted February 20, 2010 Next was forging these decorative tapers that are under the lights. This is a 1 1/8" square bar tapered down to a 5/8" tip (grows about 3") with a groove and a twist. The ball is welded on in this situation. To start off here are some tooling we use under the power hammers. A flatter. This is great not only to clean up your work but you can forge with this tool and be comfortably aggressive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gayle Brooks Posted February 20, 2010 Author Share Posted February 20, 2010 One of the groovers we have. Then I am left with at Dragon Forge, ltd. we use terms with twists as "flats." So a full 360 deg twist would be called a 4 flat twist. I might unknowingly be referencing my twists using this term. We also do ours clockwise as a default. Only is it written very clear to do them the other way. This helps eliminate any simple mistakes. I also was to grove some flat stock for the rings of the chandelier. We have another tool for the air hammers. Here we have a stop on the bottom die and the groover mounted on top. AND..I did alot today... "S" hook chains. Fairly simple. Pretty much all the steps in the pic. and the jig Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beth Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 wicked rory - am loving this project! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K. Bryan Morgan Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 It's coming along nicely. Thanks for sharing this with us. I know I'm learning from it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad J Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 That is very nice, Great job! Can't wait to see the finished product. Chad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evfreek Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 This is really awesome! Thanks for the picture progression. I love the tooling!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tzonoqua Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 Really great to see the process and "action" shots! More please... :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gayle Brooks Posted February 26, 2010 Author Share Posted February 26, 2010 man o man, getting alot done but these long work weeks are starting to catch up with me! Above these 3 rings is the wire box where everything is wired together. This is also the main support for the chandelier. I located center, placed a center punch and then put a heavy bevel on the end of the 5/8" bar. When I welded this I wanted to make sure I got alot of penetration. Placed some 1/2""x1" bar across and stitched everything together. This bad boy isnt goin anywhere. I rolled some eyes earlier. In the 1/4" plate for the base punched out some holes and have the eyes hanging out. Also have 2 thin pieces of sheet and made a cover to the top. These just sit on top of tabs. "S" hook chain Here the rings are rolled, have stretchers on them Laying out where the lamps will go This next week will be assembling the bottoms of the lamps with the mounts in prep to assemble and attach to the chandelier Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beth Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 rory - its looking fabulous - I LOVE IT! thanks for the ongoing photos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gayle Brooks Posted March 6, 2010 Author Share Posted March 6, 2010 This week was finally being able to start assembly of everything we have been making here at Dragon Forge, LTD. Between the weather here in Pine, Colorado and the looooong work weeks I am happy this project is nearing the end. here is an exploded view of how the lantern mounts are built. The next series of pics are the steps of the layout/jig I made to assemble these. I have lines on the table for reference points and was using a level to check me self. This first step was finding center. Afterwords I mounted the lamps arms of these mounts. When I left the studio at 7 last night I had 2 of the 3 ring finished. This is the smallest of the 3 rings. Here is pops holding up one of the lamps with the blown glass and candle light covers. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Gilmore Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 Rory, On the tapered twisted piece that attaches to the bottom of the lamp cylinder. You have a round piece on above the twist. Is this machined or different dia. rings? Thanks Glenn Tell your dad hello for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gayle Brooks Posted March 6, 2010 Author Share Posted March 6, 2010 The twist is 1" bar that has a shoulder forged on the end. That slips into a piece of tubing. That tubing has a hole and we plug welded that collar to the 1" square bar so we had a seamless joint. The top is also tubing that is attached the same way. There is another hole drilled in that for the wire to slip inside and go up the into the lamp. lol Im better at taking pics than typing! Hope it makes sense. Tell your dad hello for me Will do! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gayle Brooks Posted March 9, 2010 Author Share Posted March 9, 2010 almighty, we got the thing assembled. Here is Craig doing his Vanna White impersonation lol. Some final detail, mounting for the arms, paint, wiring and install early next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beth Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 totally inspiring piece of craftsmanship and design - major respect you lot thanks for the whole process - its great to see! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youngdylan Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 Very nice, thanks for the pictures. Why did you choose to head the rivets on the inside? I suppose you wanted to preserve the button head on the outside and get a smooth inside. Usually faster/easier to use a countersink rivet on the inside and a decorative hammered head on the outside. Sometimes it's necessary, here you had your choice. There is no "right" way to do it, it's all choices. More! We want more! Lovely work Rory and great photos Pneumatic air craft fitters rivet guns (not pop rivet guns) are brilliant for jobs like this. The "snap" fits over the rivet head and a small (couple kg) "bucking bar" is placed on the back of the rivet on the inside. Squeeze the trigger and because of Newtons 3rd The back of the rivet flattens instead of the head. http://www.aircrafts...ivetgun2602.php Wonderful tools (aren't all tools). They are given sizes by the number of X's. A 4X will probably do a 5mm steel rivet cold. My biggest is a 7X and will do a 6mm stainless cold (sure makes the hand tingle though). The rear of the rivet can be set into a c/s hole if required. One wonderful advantage for a job like this is that you can hold the bucking bar square to the back of the rivet. Some jobs just can't easily be done any other way, eg :http://www.verdigris...etter%20box.htm I'm not sure if you can see from the photos on my site but all the rivets heads on the front are as perfectly round as the day the manufacturer made them. All the hammer marks are on the inside. You just can't reach down with a punch / rivet set down to the bottom! First time I used one I thought they used magic as a means of working .... and I used to be a Physics/Maths teacher!! ..... I still think it's magic. Professional quality kit costs a few hundred quid but good used ones regulary go for £50 ish on flea bay. Simple can't recomend them highly enough, definitely in the "top ten" of all my tools. Obviously air powerhammers are #1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvillain Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 I believe this tops any presentation I've seen for process,tooling and assembly. It must have been quite a chore just to get the photos together. Thanks! Anvillain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gayle Brooks Posted March 10, 2010 Author Share Posted March 10, 2010 totally inspiring piece of craftsmanship and design - major respect you lot thanks for the whole process - its great to see! Beth as always your words are to kind Pneumatic air craft fitters rivet guns (not pop rivet guns) are brilliant for jobs like this. The "snap" fits over the rivet head and a small (couple kg) "bucking bar" is placed on the back of the rivet on the inside. Squeeze the trigger and because of Newtons 3rd The back of the rivet flattens instead of the head. I totally forgot we have those! We even blank shanks that are long enough I could reach that rivet. Aaa...sometimes you win some, sometimes you forget the obvious! Thanks! lol I believe this tops any presentation I've seen for process,tooling and assembly. It must have been quite a chore just to get the photos together. Thanks! Anvillain Thanks! Taking the pics was not to hard, all camera phone. Quick pic and put it back in my pocket. I try to post what I like to see and that is as much detail and information that I can. Hopefully sometime this topic might help someone who is building a similar thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youngdylan Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 This is great not only to clean up your work but you can forge with this tool and be comfortably aggressive. Now I have been accused of being passive aggressive in my time ...... or is it aggressive passive .... but comfortably aggressive??? Kinda like the sound of aggresively comfortable. WTF it's all psychobabble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rio Bravo Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Awesome work and a great presentation of the whole project! Thanks Rory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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