John B

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About John B

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Dawlish, Devon, UK


  • Location Starcross Devon UK
  • Biography over 40 years engineer and blacksmith
  • Interests promoting and passing on blacksmithing skills
  • Occupation Blacksmith

John B's Activity

  1. John B added a post in a topic Blacksmith Instructional Content   

    The above is the product over three days of teaching basic skills, they just happen to produce the above items
    Cannot post more as Forbidden keeps arising
  2. John B added a post in a topic Blacksmith Instructional Content   

  3. John B added a post in a topic Hooks and bulldogs   

    Hi Michael, here's an idea for your dog's head hook.

  4. John B added a post in a topic New member with a new(to me) Sheffield made anvil, help?   

    This may help you  have fun
  5. John B added a post in a topic UK National Blacksmith festival 25th to 27th september 2015   

    Shame about that Dave, not an easy task to undertake in the first place, been there, done that, lost a shed load of money, (but from the visiting blacksmiths comments all had a great time and so I regarded it as a great success), got a lot of hassle, and got the T shirt, more important, the memories and the experience.
  6. John B added a post in a topic Begginer Projects   

    Sorry if this offended but a copy and paste of >>  beginners projects  << into the search bar would have got there.
    I have trouble with English English not being the same as American English.
  7. John B added a post in a topic Begginer Projects   

    Don't know how many times he posted this questions, a  search for " beginners projects"  has 240 pages of information so far, guess this will be 241 now.
  8. John B added a post in a topic Coke side blast fire management   

    You are welcome Charles, glad to be of some use.
  9. John B added a post in a topic Screwdriver and chisel?   

    If the shanks of the chisels are octagonal, then they should be tool steel
  10. John B added a post in a topic Coke side blast fire management   

    Hi Tom, whereabouts in the UK are you? 
    This is a sketch I made for students coming on the courses at Westpoint in Devon, to try to illustrate/explain the relevant theoretical workings of a side blast hearth, the proportions of the nest in front of the tuyere will depend on the size of the work being done in the fire.
    In practice the sand/ash tends to level out with the top of the tue, and new fuel is added from the rear to maintain the overall height of the fire, the hot spot/working area is above the air hole in the tue,
    you need space between the sand /ash under the front of the tue to allow for the clinker to settle and collect, but if you pack it as illustrated, the clinker should not form under the tue making it difficult to remove.
    Key in using these hearths is fire management, and positioning of the workpiece, far too often I see fires far in excess of what is necessary, due to too much air being used, this just wastes fuel, creates clinker, burns the outside of large section metal before it is thoroughly soaked through for forging.
    The other thing students tend to do is to poke the metal into the clinker area, rather than lay it at a shallow angle or horizontal into the hot spot area.
    When clinker becomes a problem, you can tell by the heat spread on your workpiece. This is usually identified by different heat colour bands on your workpiece IE where clinker is,  the air  gets deflected /dispersed and gives a fiercer fire around its periphery, so what happens is that where you are expecting to get your work hot in the what was the hot spot, but due to the air deflection the hot spot(s) have moved, and your workpiece gets hotter or burns where you don't expect it.
    Each hearth has its own idiosyncrasies, but the theory is the same. 
    In the picture the tank/tuyere is tilted to allow air bubbles not to be trapped at the front of the tue . this was done because ordinary tube was used to con
    Have fun

    The tank/tuyere shown is tilted slightly so there will be no air trapped behind the front plate allowing the front to burn through. traditionally the tuyeres were conically shaped so this problem did not arise.
  11. John B added a post in a topic Hi, I'm joe, and I have it...   

    Hi Joe, Welcome, wood chisels can easily be made from old files, depends on what they are intended to do, and their profiles as to how you make them, for straight forward tanged style chisels, a heat source to anneal (soften the steel) and then you can use hand tools to shape and finish them, then back to the heat source to harden and temper them  for their intended use. 
    For socketed chisels, then you will need 'smithing type resources, there should be someone near you who may be able to assist with loan of facilities or even doing the basic work for you.
    You are in danger of getting into an addiction should you choose to start down the forging hot metal path.
    Enjoy and have fun
  12. John B added a post in a topic Does smokeless coal work?   

    Depends on the user and their opinion, check with other blacksmiths in your area what they use and where they get theirs from 
  13. John B added a post in a topic Does smokeless coal work?   

    Often smokeless coal is not smokeless, just a different colour smoke, 
    There are many varieties of smokeless coal/fuels, what brand name is the stuff you are thinking of using sold under?
    The Monkton Forging coke is becoming no longer available relatively soon, and a lot of UK 'smiths are turning to a coal, semi smokeless (whatever that means) from an open cast pit in South Wales, Ffos-y-fran who supply a welsh dry steam coal, the large nut being most favoured. It is also cheaper than the Monkton forging coke should give you a local supplier, or Darch Fuels (among others) will palletize and have delivered to you. 
    If you don't want to upset the neighbours, use lumpwood charcoal.
    Have fun
  14. John B added a post in a topic Tong suggestions   

    Try using typing correction fluid, if it's available where you are, a lot more visible than soapstone at a high heat 
  15. John B added a post in a topic Vice height for filing   

    Filing is usuallya whitesmith/fitter/engineers operation rather than blacksmithing, the vise being suitable and positioned for the job being done, as a general rule fig 4 would be best practice for a 'smithing situation, also useful when using a hacksaw.
    Geometry of the body parts would dictate the best height, in this instance so you can achieve a flat face square to your stance. Similar rules apply to using a scythe or other hand powered tools in other industries/situations.