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Re-finishing


KELTOI

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My anvil is pretty old and sat in a barn for quite a while, and as such is rather dinged up. So I was wondering if there is a way to resurface my anvil without going through the whole process of actually putting a new face on the anvil, without ruining the integrity of the anvil itself?

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Post pictures? Anvils are generally not fixed because little dings and dents.

Ive seen people weld the corners of the anvil to grind it square, it may look pretty but thats about it. Rounded corners can be your friend.

Grinding the face can be done but also not recomended.

Anyway the anvil experts here should see pictures of it before u do anything.

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Old smithing books tell you that the first thing to do when you buy a new anvil is to round off the edges---helps preven cold shuts in your work and you can use them as a fuller too.

New smiths seem determined to put sharp edges back on anvils. never understood that.

If you need a sharp edge better to make a hardy tool with one---or you can make one that you can use in 4 different orientations each side having a specific edge form on it.

Need a picture; but first Do No Harm!

I have an anvil that sat in an unheated shed addition near a stream in Ohio since 1938---when they moved it to the new building, has fine pitting on the face from condensation. I jsut removed any loose rust with a wireprush and have been letting smithing on it slowly polish the face---scale is a fine abrasive you know.

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It depends on how bad the pitting is and what kind of finish you're looking for off the anvil. Generally though no, they don't make a lot of difference. If you want a fine finish, that's what files, grinders, sanders and polishers are for.

Rebuilding an anvil is something that requires more expertise than most blacksmithing processes do. Simply taking a sander (I recommend an orbital or hand held belt) to the face to polish it up is one thing, refinishing it is another.

Send pictures so we can make better suggestions. Till you decide for sure though, build a fire, heat some iron and use it. Chances are you'll discover a smooth surface isn't all that necessary.

Frosty

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It should be easy enough to tell the difference between hammer marks and anvil face marks. Unless your hammer is pitted as well. If not just heat a piece of flat stock and give it a smart smack, leave it lay as is till it's cool and look at both sides.

Frosty

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Keltoi:
If you have an area near the center of the face of 1 or 2 Sq inches that's pretty clean, that's all you really need. Most actual forging takes place in that small an area.
A 4" belt sander will clean up the surface rust. Just using an anvil will slowly work the lumps towards level and as a new smith you will probably add a few dings of your own.
Make a stake with a hard polished surface for when you need it, same with square corners.
Welding on an anvil is a dead last resort and usually a mistake for several reasons.
If you are forging machine tool parts, a smooth face is important. But things that are hand forged should show it and those anvil face dings make for "validating surface information" ( a good thing)..IW

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Validating surface information?

Artspeak Pete? YOU?

It's perfectly true of course but. . .

You've been subbed to IFI since 06 and only posted 16 times?

This IS Pete isn't it? If not sorry, one of you should kick my butt for getting you confused.

Frosty

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