Scribing Lines on plate or sheet

[irnsrgn]

To make lines drawn on plate or sheet steel more visible, use a can of quick dry spray paint, (I usually use white or silver) and spray a light coat on the areas you want to scribe lines or points on, the lines or X's or < >'s will show up dark on the light coating much like layout die does for machinists.

Edited January 30, 2009 by irnsrgn

[Dodge]

Good idea Jr. I have used this in the past. One hint I would add, if I may; Don't put the paint on too heavy and let it dry. It could flake off as you scratch. Made that mistake the first time :D

[irnsrgn]

I think I stated a light coat, but a good point to further enhance my post, Thanks. I have edited my first post.

[Thomas Dean]

Thanks Jr.. Another idea, if I may Jr., is to use primer spray if you are needing to cut multiple pieces using a template, say rose petals, leaves, or whatever. Lay the template on your metal, spray around the edges--lightly, then cut. The primer does not burn off like paint will and the fumes are not as bad, but still use plenty of ventilation, safe, not sorry. This tip came from Lorelei Sims at siminar I attended a few yrs back, works great. I haven't tried the primer for layout purposes tho.

[bluemountainforge]

Hello, I'm new to IFI, but thought this might help. I use silver art pencils that usually cost a buck or two. They can easily be seen on sheet or hot mill stock, and no fumes!

[Ten Hammers]

Sanford company makes those silver wood pencils. They are outstanding to use. They also make RED leaded pencils for stainless but I am unable to find them. Hope someome can help me.

I know Junior, it's a hi-jack. Layout with a scribe over paint works well. This is entirely different from a pencil. Good sharp scribe will go through millscale but still hard to see. I might add that sometimes I have used chalk rubbed into the scribe lines to be able to find them but still not as good as paint. A good source of light is the most important thing for me in these situations ( or shade if outside ).

[Frosty]

I used to pick up the flat white paint in the discount basket for layout, it works a treat. I'll have to give the primer a try.

You can use a red pencil on SS or al, it doesn't need to be a special one.

Frosty

[Jocko 58]

I use French chalk/engineering chalk or blue marking out dye or dark blue oil paint watered down with methylated spirits
If that helps we use it in the metal trade
Onya mate

[fat pete]

i have a little oil lamp in the shop and if I want to mark lines I hold the piece over the flame for a couple osecs and it is blackend....great fro stock removal or drawing your shape...

[JamesBBrauer]

I'm partial to soapstone, sharpies,and my carbide tipped scribe. For the fat cuts the soapstone is fine, but for laying out drill holes, etc, I'll lay down some sharpie ink then scribe over it. The blue machinist ink doesn't work so hot over mill scale, seems better on aluminum.

sharpie def: permanent felt tip marker

[blindviper]

I use a carbide tipped scribe, then use hit it with the soapstone.

[meinhoutexas]

darn it james i was going to say use sharpie ink. i have used it on ss in the shop and alcohol wipes up after the job

[horseshoe182]

I use "Marking out INK" not paint, like ApprenticeMan said. Drys in a couple of minutes. It is in a small preasure pack( can ) and works good.

[ggraham]

I use china markers (grease pencils) for layout over punched points/scribe marks.
grease gets down in punchs or scribed lines and wears well even when not down in the grooves.

Cleans up easily with WD40 type solvent/penetrating oils.

George

[r. mahon]

I draw my patterns on white paper and "xerox" the pattern. I then glue the "Xerox" copy onto the metal to be cut, with rubber cement. This system works very well for multiple pieces. If you are going to use a chisel on the piece, the paper aids in placeing and keeping the chisel in place until the groove is completed. This system works for small as well as large pieces.