jayco Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 I have been asked to make some wooden crosses with some iron work attached. Crucifixes. I have some old weathered barn boards that I think would look perfect for the project, but the board would have to be ripped to 1&1/2 in. width.....maybe 2 in. Well, the problem is, on every piece there would be a' fresh sawed' side that would not match the rest at all. Since I know there are a bunch of woodworkers out there, and I have 3 or 4 months to come up with an idea....... How can you artificially age or weather a piece of wood?....In this case, oak? Any info greatly appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woody Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 You might try putting the pieces in a air tight container, then exposing them to ammonia fumes. It is supposed to darken the wood. The liquid does not contact the wood. The weathering can be done with a rasp or wire brush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustyshackleford Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 Woody's idea is pretty solid, the wire brushing pushes down/removes the softer wood layers, in effect raising the harder ones. THis is the same thing that happens durign weathering. The ammonia is also not a bad idea. Use proper blah blah blah :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belargehair Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 This may not solve the problem of colour (Canadian sp. ) difference but I know for furniture and exposed wood beams you can beat them with chains to get a good aged look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlarkin Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 YOUR LUCKY DAY. I manage a lumber yard. There is a product made by Valhalla Wood Preservatives called LifeTime. It does exactly what you want. Go to Lifetime Wood Treatment - Eco-Friendly, Non-Toxic Wood Treatment that lasts a LIFETIME!. I have have played with it here at the yard and it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayco Posted November 23, 2008 Author Share Posted November 23, 2008 Thanks for the tips, guys........I will be trying the things you suggested. Might take me a little time, but I will report back with some pics of the completed crucifixes. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pault17 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Jayco, what parts of your crosses/crucifixes are metal? maybe a dumb question, but had to ask Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayco Posted November 23, 2008 Author Share Posted November 23, 2008 Paul17, I plan to make the crosses from wood and try to forge an abstract figure of Jesus from iron. Hand made nails and everything. I've never made one of these before so it will be a learning experience for me as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Covington Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Jaco, Check this out. This is a project some of our guys did a few years ago. It may give you a few ideas. Tidewater Blacksmiths Guild - The "Passion" Cross Project Travis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teachingclay Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 have used old motor oil to both weather and preserve word. might try that on a sample to see if gets the effect you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Evers Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 A log cabin builder once told me to use vinegar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfshieldrx Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 not sure about other species. Place a pad of steel wool in a pint of white vinegar. In a couple of days the steel wool will dissolve. Strain the vinegar (it will have some "stuff" floating in it) an brush on the "raw" wood. May take a couple-three applications. I was pleased with the results a few years ago. I was making some rustic picture frames from rough lumber. The above process made them look aged. Good luck...bart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ifitsmetal Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 You can always try sandblasting, it removes the soft grain areas and leaves the hard grain areas. Then stain to your preference. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highlander Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 power washing or sandblasting will wear away the soft wood and make the grain pop out like its 3D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Evers Posted November 26, 2008 Share Posted November 26, 2008 Post 12 is the formula I got today and I saw the results - they were good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayco Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 Seems like it's been forever since I started this project. (I've been 'sidelined' for a while). Anyway, I finally finished some crucifixes and took some pictures! I took a very simple approach to the 'ageing' part of it. After I pre-cut the wood, I simply brushed some vinegar on the fresh cut sides. Since I couldn't finish the work in a timely manner as I had originally planned, I also placed the wood outside for a few weeks. So, I guess the results are a combination of vinegar and natural weathering.........oh, well......... Any way, here are some pics........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnr Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 Fantastic James!!! You did a great job there! Finnr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
territorialmillworks Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 Having made similar items, here are some of the ideas that I have used on PINE. Hardwoods should work much the same. 1. When making a lot of Southwest style furniture, I gang mounted 10 wire brushs side by side on a horizonal shaft over an adjustable bed, powered by 1 hp motor. Strips the soft material right out leaving 'weathered' ridges of the harder stuff. Without a power feed, a SCARY tool to use. Never got around to reducing the RPMs 2. For small quantities, I just use the wire brush on my bench grinder. 3. Make a stain by soaking iron scale/nails/ or floor sweepings in vinegar for 48 hrs. Gives a gray color if diluted or a dull purple color full strength. Test first because it darkens a lot after reacting with the wood. 4. Wood leaching removes the hygroscopic elements- sugar/starch/protein/lignin, leaving harder elements. Only formula I have is water/lime/detergent and 2% sodium hydroxide by volume. Multiple application to desired gray color. 5. Use Minwax Polysealer in spray can. Let dry and buff with Scochbrite pad to denib and then reapply second coat. Another idea is to make a crown of thorns from black anodized/annealed craft wire.. We make the thorns by twisting short pcs around a small finish nail, thread them onto a longer wire, spacing them accordingly. Add two more long pcs, holding one end in a vice grip with the other end in a drill and twisting. Then trim thorns to length. Hope you will post pics later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammerkid Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 James, you ought" to do a Bp on em!!!!! Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unkle spike Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 Very Very nice job on those....is see some copying in my future... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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