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Purchsing Decision Assistance Please


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I am about to purchase my first Anvil. The choices are as follows:

300+ pound Peter Wright at $500

Good Flat face and edges

4 5/8" wide face
27" overall
11" high
1 1/4" hardie
not sure on the pritchel hole size



250 pound Peter Wright

Flat face and good
Similar dimensions

the problem with this one is that someone mounted a vise on the end of it and cut and drilled holes for it.

Which one would you purchase?

I told the gentleman that I would be back in the morning to with a decision.Any assistance would be greatly appreciated

Best

Archiphile

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How much is the 250lb?

And is the mount there not salvageable?

I don't know much by any mean's, but how long have you been blacksmithing for, and what skill level are you at.. if one is cheaper but your a novice.. it's probably a better idea.. though obviously in the long run the better is ... better.

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"Marry them both"! (and sell off one at a profit)

What's the price on the "altered one"? Can you still access the hardy hole? If there is a good drop in price due to the alterations I would probably suggest going for it and spending the excess money on other tools.

They are both large anvils and I hope you don't move very often.


If they are about the same per pound cost go for the larger unaltered one.

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It all depends on what it is for, if permanent and stationary, I would go for the bigger one, I have one and it is the best. The whole drill and tapped thing would be interesting to see, but probably not too good for the anvil. If it is going to have to be moved alot, neither is a easy one for that. Can you take pics and show us your decision?

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What Thomas said.

If you can convince the seller the drilled one is indeed damaged goods and get it at a reduced price I'd buy both.

All things being equal, I'd buy the larger. With the smaller altered, it'd be no contest in my mind.

Frosty

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Thomas

$250 is the price on the altered one.

All,
I am experienced in metal working as I have been a professional welder for 10 years. I am rather familiar with steel and such. This would be moved maybe three times total. From his shop to my car, from car to dolly, from dolly to stand and stop. The other tools I can make and I am building my own forge (coal) so the issue really comes down to ROI. If I sell a mortising chisel, for example, for $80 to $100 and work for four days a week I could pay off the purchase fairly quickly.

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I'd probably go for the cheaper one as long as the holes don't interfere with the work surface. If it's still in nice shape even with the holes, 250.00 is a lot to pay for an extra 50 lbs of steel (for the big anvil). Of course, if you can swing the bucks, buy em both and sell the one you don't like on ebay. They seem to fetch pretty good money there....

Ed

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Bigger is more inertia---when you strike down on a piece the anvil "strikes up" due to inertia so the bigger and more solidly mounted an anvil is the more work goes into moving the metal and the less is lost in moving the anvil and stand.

It is noticable when switching from a small anvil to a large one that you work faster and with less effort.

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one of the shop anvils weighes 7 cwt and is on a cast stand filled with concrete ,the stand isnt very high! , all the strikers that have worked on it ,say the hammer just falls through the iron ,the down side i find is that big anvils can be hard work and slow you down shoemaking ,you need skates on to get from the pike to the pritchill hole and if the work needs to work around the anvil ,its a long way ,olso you can catch your knuckles when chopping down over the far edge on a anvil thats 7 or 8 ins wide , we used them for heavy work ,for a good jobbing anvil i think 5 cwt is a good size about 5 1/2 to 6 ins wide and about a yard long ,the heavy anvil is 8 ins wide and 42 in long and thats too long for the sort of work i finished up doing.

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