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I Forge Iron

Forge welding(bare with me guys)


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I don't do the bee-hive thing.
A deep open fire works best for me. A nice bright yellow fire.

The older smiths used to say that you heat the bar until it disappears in the fire.
I'm going to say the same thing in a slightly different way.
The bright yellow fire is at the upper end of the welding heats for steel.

When you place your steel into the fire, it will chill the coals around it. When those coals come back to yellow and envelops your piece [it disappears in the fire] you are at an appropriate heat to weld.

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Hello Mark. Yes we have communicated before via email. I was the pest bugging you for answers!! Hahahaha. I know what you mean about the steel looking wet. I brush the pieces to be mated carefully, they are not crusty. But, when I heat the steel to welding heat, after it has been fluxed and all, as soon as I take it out of the fire it looks crusty on the outside. Does that mean it is crusty on the inside? Thanks for your patience!!

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MetalMuncher,

I'm in the same boat, trying to fold a RR spike into itself, Unfortunatly I only get if lucky one afternoon a month to try any forging. Ran across the Blacksmith that runs Wizard Forge at a local welding supply shop, He told me that if you take the two pieces you want to weld touch them together(when heated) If your temp is right they will want to kinda stick Don't know if this is any help but anything is worth a try.


Rich

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Hello Mark. when I heat the steel to welding heat, after it has been fluxed and all, as soon as I take it out of the fire it looks crusty on the outside. Does that mean it is crusty on the inside?


Yep!
It has to look wet on the outside when you go to weld. The scale has to be in liquid form to exit the weld area.

look at your flux and make sure that it is dry (earlier entry - this thread).
Make sure your forge is not oxygen rich -
Make sure your forge is hot enough - otherwise your will spend too long getting to a welding heat and destroy the flux.
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You can use a strong air source if you dump the excess air and keep it out of the forge. This can be as simple as a *T* in the air line. Another choice is a disconnected air line leaving a gap. Just aim the fan toward the gap for more air, or aim it to miss the gap for less air.

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Control of the air source is very important for forge welding with a solid fuel forge. I saw Brian Brazeal do a demo, and it looked like he was giving his hand crank blower one turn every six seconds or so. I tried rigging up a leaf blower to miss the air intake, but the control is very sloppy. Also, the escaping air tends to blow the fleas around. I had much better luck with a jury rigged dropping box made of a spare construction outlet box and a dual grounded plug with the appropriate jumpers yanked out. This will put a load in series with the brushed universal motor. The load can be a halogen light for a good blow, or a smaller incandescent trouble light for a slight breeze. Works well. Those hand crank blowers are nice, but they are fussy and pricey.

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Thank you Glenn. Evfreek, I can imagine that a leaf blower would spew coals everywhere. A shop vac will do the same if you let it. I'm pretty sure the problem is the air...Crank blowers dont even exist here, I tried looking for one on the web and were pretty expensive. Thanks dudes!!

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