Washtub forge? Your opinions please

[Avadon]

What do you guys think of washtub/washbasin forges? :confused:

Do you love them, hate them? what are their advantages and disadvantages.

I know there is no clinker breaker and anything that falls into the blast is hopefully pushed to the end cap, which then the unit has to be lifted up and emptied or blown out. But outside of that how resillient and long lasting is refractory? do they get hotter then brake drum type forges? They do seem deeper.

[Rob Browne]

They are great for long objects like blades and can easily be shortened with a bit of mud if you only need a small fire. As for the clinker problem, just open the end of the tube and blow it away. Great little units for their uses which are basically long thin fires typically used for blades or long twists, etc. They don't have the mass for heavier forging but that is why you have a selection of forges, isn't it?

Edited September 18, 2008 by rmcpb

[John Martin]

You could use it for small objects as well, be a neat little demo forge for sure !!!

[Dan W]

I've been using one of these for about 6 months. I now do 90% of all my forging with it. I can throw it in the truck along with some charcoal or even seasoned hardwood chunks and haul it anywhere.
Its great for blades and small stuff like S or wall hooks etc...
I really snjoy this little gem.

[Avadon]

Oooooo nice thanks for the comments guys. I think I will build one then. I think your right rmcpb about also having a heavier forge. Not that a washtub forge couldn't be beafed up, but the lively one above seems a little on the light side. I like the heavyness of my brake drum forge. At 200#'s I know it will never fall over and if I need to stand on it for some silly reason and adjust the flu I know I don't even need a latter hehe

[inazuma_x]

everyone loves tim lively's work! well atleast i do!

and by the way...clinker breakers! Real men dig em out with their bare hands!

Edited September 19, 2008 by inazuma_x

[Rob Browne]

Only if they are still glowing.

[inazuma_x]

Only if they are still glowing.

naturally :)

[Avadon]

dig them out with your bare hands.. sheesh what a bunch of nancies...... i always use my teeth and bob for them :D

[matt87]

Don't ask what I use for a poker!

[John Martin]

Lol, I think I have to say that this thread has gone way off subject. Lol. Back to subject....build one, try it out, it's cheap to do, and will serve you well, just like JAFO said.

[civilwarblacksmith]

Wash tub forges are excellent portable benchtop forges. They can work with in a shop setting with a metal stand/hood combo (meaning the stand and hood are one unit). With this type of setup, when you have a demo somewhere, you can just pick itup and go.

The other thing with these type of forges is the ability to adjust the hot spot for different size projects and not waste fuel.

[Candidquality]

Definitely a great way to start out, easy to adjust to where you need and you're not out a whole lot if you make a mistake. Some people never switch away from them. Great for long stock as well. ;)

[jimbob]

Don't ask what I use for a poker!

Ok I'll bite ...what DO you use for a poker?:D

[Bentiron1946]

I was going to comment but this is a family forum you know;) I built a forge in '78 using a section of 3" schedule 40 pipe cut in half lengthwise and welded to the bottom of a 1/4" plate with holes in the top of the pipe. I was blowing air up in the center with a small squirrel cage fan. We just used dirt not mud for the base. It was sure good for long twists and when forging long sections of 2" square under the PH.

[Glenn]

BP0071 Making a Poker
BP0084 Making a fire poker

[Avadon]

Is it necessary when making this kind of forge to use a pipe greater then standard sch 40 black iron? (such as the kind you get from home depot/lowes) Will that hold up?

Also I'm curious, is the refractory any better then just welding plate steel sides?

[Avadon]

Oh also does a hood over the top of one of these things really draft? And what shape would it be? Rectangular? Square?

[Avadon]

Bump.. anyone know the answer to these?

Is it necessary when making this kind of forge to use a pipe greater then standard sch 40black iron? (such as the kind you get from home depot/lowes) Will that hold up? Cause that is a thin wall and I always thought the bottom of a forge should be 1/4" to 1/2"?

Also I'm curious, is the refractory any better then just welding plate steel sides? Do you get any heat from the refractory that you wouldn't get from plate?

[Glenn]

The tuyere is 1" ID black pipe(not galvanized) and is 18 inches in length.

That is usually sch 40. The air blast will cool the pipe to some extent and even if it burns out, it can be easily replaced. Refractory is used as it is easily available and can be molded to the shape needed. It makes for a long deep fire that is needed for charcoal and knife making. Steel would have to be welded together.

There is no perfect forge, these are just guidelines to get you started building a forge that will work. From there you can tweek it to your situation. Build something and get started, then change it a bit to improve things.

[Avadon]

So Glenn, refractory doesn't give any better insulation then steel?

[Glenn]

Refractory DOES insulate better than steel.

The wash tub is steel and, in this case, just a handy shape. The whole thing could just as easily be constructed of plate steel. The fire pot for a coal forge is steel (or cast iron) and steel (or cast iron) would work for a charcoal forge as well. It is the V shape your interested in.

[Avadon]

Refractory DOES insulate better than steel.

Cool, thank you for the info :)

[Glenn]

I have seen photos of V shaped charcoal forges made from what looks to be concrete, bricks, mud, refractory etc, and have seen charcoal burned on what looks to be a flat surface. All work for that smith. The wash tub forge is just a convenient shape to provide a long deep fire suitable for charcoal and blades. The materials can be picked up at the local Lowes or Home Depot which makes it available to many people.

The original question was

What do you guys think of washtub/washbasin forges? what are their advantages and disadvantages? I know there is no clinker breaker. How resillient and long lasting is refractory? do they get hotter then brake drum type forges? They do seem deeper.

They seem to work for a lot of people, materials are easily available, and the fire is suited for charcoal and blades or other long length heats on metal. The refractory would last as long as it lasts and would need patched or replaced at some point. It would be most likely destroyed by being poked with the steel in my view. Lively supplies a long hook (in his kit) to remove any clinker and keep the air holes open. Charcoal has little clinker (at least the charcoal I use) so this does not seem to be an issue.

the lively one above seems a little on the light side. I like the heavyness of my brake drum forge. At 200#'s I know it will never fall over and if I need to stand on it for some silly reason and adjust the flu I know I don't even need a latter

A 200# break drum forge would require a lot of support to keep it upright, but then a 4000# masonry forge provides it's own support.

It does not matter to the metal if you use propane, charcoal, coal, induction heating, or something else, the metal still gets hot. Each heat source is best suited to a specific type forge, but that is not to say you can not build a better more efficient forge specifically to heat your metal for your project. The idea is to build a fire, get something hot, and beat on it. The rest is just details.