wulfgar Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 Hello everyone. My question for the day is, what is vasco wear? Does it have a proper name? Or does anyone know what it was used to make? I have a book written by Jim Hrisoulas about bladesmithing and he names it as one of the strongest steels. I would like to get my hands on some of it but I cant seem to find out what it is or anything that was made of it. Thank you all for your help[ and input. Wulfgar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 (edited) Yes the proper name is Vascowear. It's a high alloy material with: C = 1.12 (wt. %) Si = 1.2 Mn = 0.3 W = 1.1 Cr = 7.75 Mo = 1.6 V = 2.4 Fe = Bal. It is listed as being out of production so you would either need to find a scrap source or a steel distributor that still had some relic stock. I hope you have quite a bit of experience forging high alloy steels, if not, even if you do get a piece it will probably be not a good experience for you! Edited September 15, 2008 by ThomasPowers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Mayo Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 Vasco wear is the brand name here is the same type of steel from another maker. BobCrucible Selector - CRU-WEAR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 If you follow the link above and look at the temeratures needed for heat treating you may find you will need to send the blades out for that process unless you have a heat treat oven that will handle the temps. And I am sure there are a few folks that will say they can do it all in a forge at home. If JPH say he can believe him, he is the man!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlw50 Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 What about Vascomax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 I don't think I would choose an extremely low carbon steel, .02%, as a blade steel myself. I'd pass on the Vascomax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draper84 Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 Excellent question i was wondering the same thing. i have the same book. but i probably wouldn't work with it, i don't have than much experience with high alloy steels. p.s. i read the drizzt books too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wulfgar Posted September 17, 2008 Author Share Posted September 17, 2008 haha thats awesome. i as well have little experience in the arts but am eager to learn. the main reason i was wondering about the vasco wear was to hope to acquire some for future dates. as rare metals are hard to find i wouldnt mind getting them if i ever come across them. while im on the topic and boring you all, is there anything that i should be keeping my eyes open for that would be made of titanium or tungsten? and which would make a better blade? P.S. thanks for all the help from everyone so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Caffrey Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 I read those books too! Working on "Sea of Swords" right now. Vascowear will give you all the challenge you could ever want...its just a bear to work with. Super difficult to forge, and in its hardened state, you will eat up A LOT of belts grinding on it. Be ready....it is VERY pricey! Concerning the Titanium, its a very poor choice for a blade. The max hardness you can achieve out of 6AL4V titanium (60% Aluminum/40% vanadium) is around Rc 48...meaning its too soft to hold and edge (most forged blades are in the 57-59 Rc hardness range) (you listed an Aluminum alloy. 60% plus 40% equals 100% where is the Titanium? can you please explain) Tungsten is an element that is added to steel to impart the quality of the steel holding its shape a very high temps...items such as metal saw blades, drill bits, and other types of tools that often encounter high heat and pressure applications usually contain Tungsten. The problems with tungsten in steels that are forged is that it creates a condition known as "red hard", meaning that when the steel is heated to forging temps, it resists moving under the hammer. The more tungsten, the worse the condition exists. The forging temp ranges tend to get very narrow as more tungsten is added too. I would highly encourage you to work with simple carbon steels such as 1050 through 1080 until you master them. Trying to jump straight into the richer alloy steels will frustrate you, and will cost you a bunch of money. It will help you understand the elements that steel can contain, and the characteristics that each will impart. Learning about steel is a big step in forging blades. Don't let yourself get caught up in all the hogwash that you hear about steel....things like "Tungsten/Vanadium Steel", "High Carbon Surgical Stainless" "Spirit Steel" and such are just terms that some have applied to make you go "OOOHHH.. AHHHH!" They are hoping to make you think they have some kind of super duper steel that is just the cat's meow.....but its only a ploy to try to get you to purchase their product. Learn your steel(s), and you'll be light years ahead those who think they have to rely on name games to sell their product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlw50 Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 This is a little seax I made out of a Vascomax rod. In this size it was not hard to forge. I heated and air quenched it. I dont remember the specifics now. It held an edge pretty well. I didnt test it otherwise so I dont really know if it is a good alloy or not. I think it is not actually a steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlw50 Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 Another picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWCTool Posted October 4, 2008 Share Posted October 4, 2008 Suppose you go through the ordeal of forging a blade from Vasco Wear. You eat up a couple of belts sharpening and polishing the thing, and finally you have a knife. What happens when you need to sharpen it? It will take a long time to dull, but there is not a knife out there that will never dull over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quenchcrack Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 Vascowear will get harder than woodpecker lips but is NOT easy to sharpen. The tungsten, chromium and moly make it very abrasion resistant and that is how you sharpen it. I agree with Ed, go with carbon steel. It takes a fine edge and is easy to strop back to shaving sharp. I make all my woodcarving knives out of W1 or O1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backyardsmith Posted October 12, 2008 Share Posted October 12, 2008 i have some crusher bar from a sample crusher from a coal mine and i was told by the guy who gave me them said he was told they was Vascowear and if they are they make a good blade but there a bear to forge anything below a orange heat and it wont move Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Italy Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 Hi everyone, I'm writing from Italy, and I''m desperatly seeking a Vasco wear producer. (I'm looking for steel bars). could you please help me? I've tried to contact Vasco pacific without any response, maybe the firm is closed(?). could you please help me?Do you know any other producer of that type of steel?? Thnk you so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnptc Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 vascowear was made by teledyne metals try crucible metals cruwearhttp://www.crucibleservice.com/datash/dscruwearv5b.pdf?CFID=185017&CFTOKEN=59781645 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neocryptica Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Sorry to resurrect a dead thread, but I have some CRU-WEAR on order and would like to hear some experiences / tips and tricks others may have in working it. Primarily I would like to know any limitations on elasticity that might make it unsuitable for longer length knives or swords. I know that there is a high degree of red hardness, I will be redesigning a more effecient propane forge prior to first heat so that I can make sure I get an even temperature and soak during the stress relieving and forging processes.Would using my forging press help or hinder? Recommended abrassive belt medium for working with it? Would my water stones even touch it after hardening / tempering process?Seeing as how it is costing me an arm and a leg for a single plate cut bar, I am going to practice on a cheaper air hardening steel such as A-2 first (been a while since I've worked with non-oil / water quenching steels).My ol standby these past few years is 5160 & 1095, but I love a good challenge and have located a good distributor contact for this.Thanks in advance for any assistance given. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Makers publish the info. Google will find. Gotta wonder why no one picks that steel for blades? It is not because they lack skill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neocryptica Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Indeed you are correct sir. They provided me with a data sheet with most all the info I needed. Is there an issue with suitability that I am missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 like M2 gonna be very hard to work, and what will we have when we finish? 3x the work for a nice blade, if it works out for us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 I'd shy from it for a couple of reasons..the first being the tempering requirements. Too Touigh to forge as it is designed to resist moving while hot..then the resistance to abrasion means I would spend a lot of belts to clean it up. it will laugh at cheap belts. and lets not forget the temperatures required for tempering are not held in a home forge. But that is at my shop...your shop your rules...take pics... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhartironwerks Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Off to the school of hard knocks... John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 remember to provide a diamond hone with it so the end user has a chance of sharpening it in the field. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 I love this place!! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rantyb Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 I have a hunting knife that's over 25 yrs old, and I find it very easy to keep it sharp. The thing is to not let it get "dull" . It was made by a guy named Tim Wright. He told me that it was steel used for lathe cutting tools for cutting metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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