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I Forge Iron

Quick Tip for Grinding in Tight Corners


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I needed to get the mill scale out of the tight corners of some scrollwork where the angle grinder and wire brush won’t reach. It occurred to me that I could cut some 2” discs out of scraps of 36 grit belt and mount them on an arbor in the flexible shaft. Note that the grit is facing towards the handle. 


This works very well. 


I’ve got a lot of 4-1/2” discs in 36 grit whose edges are pretty worn out but which are otherwise okay. Glad I’ll be able to squeeze a bit more use out of them!

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Good use of materials to get the job done. But be safe. 

Just to slap a little safety note on this: cutting and punching your own grit discs for a different purpose could result in an imbalanced wheel on a tool with high rpm. This could result in shattering or tearing which could cause the disc or pieces to go flying off at possible high rpm. Store bought discs for the intended purpose are designed for the tool and rated for certain rpm use. They carry their own risk  These are home made and as such should be considered higher risk. So Please wear proper PPE like atleast safety glasses, face shield and gloves. 

Other than the face,these wheels spinning at higher rpm will slice up your fingers like you wouldn't believe.  I know lol. Not fun continuing working with cuts and friction burns. For me that is usually with roloc disks when I get in a hurry and don't throw on my gloves. 

Not knocking the idea at all, it works,  just be safe and cautious. 

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Others reading thinking to use the idea might have fixed speed tools. Only wanted to add the ppe warning. 

By the way, you could add a disc facing up And down to use it either way. Used to do that on the old 5"/6" abrasive disc air grinder in auto body to get the back side of pinchwelds but also the outer panel. Just watch your finger placement on the tool. 

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So much power,,, so little time,,,  Won't a hand held, manual operated, no moving parts wire brush work?  Also my farriers rasp with the end ground to a sharp edge can get in there with no problem. And guaranteed no friction burns on the back of your calf, even if you are sitting down on the job.  ;) 

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I saw that. I've just never had that problem, which is why i asked. I don't use a butcher brush, just a common wire brush. And my rasp end is pretty sharp. I specifically started using a sharpened rasp to solve the problem you are talking of. I would be more concerned with removing material, not just scale and changing the texture with the wheel you show. 

Also, when you forge weld a branch, as an example, the negative space in the crotch disappears as opposed to an arc or gas weld where you get a "U". Your dremmel tool would accent the "U", and remove the disappearing forge weld detail or it wouldn't get deep enough to remove scale as it gets tighter. 

I mention this because you are talking of transitions, and transitions are what catch the eye. Changes of texture and seeing brightwork vs matte black hot iron finish  are time consuming to repair, so i stay away from the problem. I also realize that if it is a gas or arc made joint, a wire brush is not the tool of choice to clean it up. And if you are going to paint it, then the color change doesn't matter, other than changing the inner detail of the vee. 

Lol, I know,,, details, details, but hey, thats why we are here.  ;)  

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