MAD RESTORATIONS Posted May 11, 2022 Share Posted May 11, 2022 Hi, great site, I am in Australia and now own this anvil, any chance someone could date it or any info please, sure it’s 209 lbs, looks to have a 5 on the bottom edge? also, can I machine to top to level it out as it has about 8mm dips in it. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George N. M. Posted May 11, 2022 Share Posted May 11, 2022 Welcome aboard from 7500' in SE Wyoming. Glad to have you. Good anvil, very similar to my larger anvil. DO NOT try to machine or smoth the face. It is perfectly usable as is and you run the risk of cutting through the hardened steel face plate and ruining the anvil. You have a very good chance of turning a decent, usable anvil into an unusable anvil shaped object suitable only for a boat anchor or a large door stop. A little irregularity on the face will not affect how well someone can forge on it. There have been too many anvils ruined by someone thinking that they should machine the face perfectly smooth. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted May 11, 2022 Share Posted May 11, 2022 Good Morning, Mad Welcome to this world and greetings from Vancouver Island, just west of the far away place called Vancouver, BC Canada. Contrary to what you may think, it is far easier to make something 'Flat', using the slight dish in the Anvil Face. When you hammer down on the high point of what you are trying to straighten, it is better to have a place for the material to spring into, before it springs partway back. If you wish a Flat surface, get a surplus piece of granite counter-top. If you wish a piece of flat surface, get a drop or an off-cut of steel plate. Your wonderful Anvil has already survived at least one life-time of work, don't go ruining it's day by threatening to machine it flat. There is quite a group of Blacksmith's in Australia. If you would like a couple e-mail address, send me a PM (Private Messanger is near the top of the main page). If you put your locale in your Avatar, we won't have to keep asking you where you are making a shadow. Thanks, Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stash Posted May 11, 2022 Share Posted May 11, 2022 Hey Mad- welcome. Dating a PW is more a matter of narrowing in to a range based on markings or construction. I'm working from memory here, so I may be off a bit.If the anvil has an 'ENGLAND' stamp above the weight stamp, it is generally after 1910. This is due to US requirements. Not sure if that was only US exports, or all their exports (ie. Aus, in your case.) Roughly 1885-1910 the top face plate was 1 piece, prior to that it was 2 or more, with the seam visible for ID. I'm figuring your anvil is in the 1885+ group, as that is when they got a bit more 'streamlined' looking. Don't touch the top with anything more aggressive than a wire brush. The tool steel top surface is a lot thinner than you might think, and you could ruin it trying to flatten it. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted May 11, 2022 Share Posted May 11, 2022 Welcome from the Ozark mountains. I agree with what everyone has said about no grinding, milling or welding on the hardened steel face plate. Have you seen this thread yet? Great bunch there' OZ roll call - Everything Else - I Forge Iron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 11, 2022 Share Posted May 11, 2022 Note that Peter Wrights are an English anvil and at that date they are weight stamped using the CWT system, (stone weights) so: 2 x 112# + 0 x 28# + 9# ; or it originally weighed 233 pounds. Old anvils usually are stamped a few pounds off from a modern calibrated scale---weigh it on a bathroom scale and see! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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