I'm going to start equipping my smithy with tongs and I'm either going to do families of Bolt or Woop, and I was wondering if any of you had an opinion on which is better and the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Thanks in advance. ,
John

Honestly don't have a clue what you're talking about.

I have several sizes of bolt tongs that work real nice and are very predictable. I've never seen or used Uri Hofi's Woop

John,
different tongs do different things. I have not yet tried to make a set of woops, but I have several different bolt types for everything from 3/8 square up to RR spikes. the woops would be really nice, i think, for barstock. dunno, have to try a set.

I find the closer the jaws are to the shape of the iron, the better the grip. YMMV

Good Luck!

I made Woop tongs from Hofi's BP and it seems to me they are designed for larger stock. They work great for hammer heads which are usually 1 1/2 inch square stock or larger. Didn't try to make any for smaller stock. Bolt tongs are more versatile IMHO.

I made this style for my flat stock(1"-3/4" range) and like them very well..
Blade & Flat Tongs

I'm going to make some tongs today, and i do not think i'll need something so big as the Woop tongs, but they would be nice for larger stock. I have a tough time with tongs. I guess make both and see which get used more.

KYBOY, I tried those, and I did it wrong. Lol. It's in my other thread. Forge Welding Re-visited.

hehe ive awlys wanted eo make hofis woop tongs for all size stock..it would be nice to have a pair of tongs for every size stock up to 2 inch..... maby ill start stocking up to!

KYBOY, I tried those, and I did it wrong. Lol. It's in my other thread. Forge Welding Re-visited.

LOL, dont feel bad..My pair had to have a couple of ahhh...Re-bends:D

Respectfully you are missing the point. You are suppose to use the proper tongs of the correct size and shape for the work you are doing. Mr. Hofi shows the proper application of the whoop tongs in his tutorial. Bolt tongs are for bolts, blade tongs are for blades, bar tongs are for bar stock, etc. It is dangerous to use tongs on sizes and shapes they were not designed to handle.

In my experience what works great for one smith might as well have been greased for another smith.

Rather than a "family" of tongs I would suggest you get the tongs that work best for YOU for each size of stock/task that you do.

Remember it's the work that counts not who has the prettiest tong rack.

Echoing Thomas Powers, I started with the idea I wanted racks of neatly organized tongs by size and style. I still don't have a rack let alone one style. As I make tongs for certain projects I get better and faster and more adaptive at producing results rather than tools. Make a couple of woops they look real useful. Make bolts and flat and what ever else strikes your fancy. Its all practice and you will be gaining marvelous skills.

I don't know Thomas.......pretty counts for something....or at least colorful does...:)

Being as I am still ignorant and inexperienced, I told Glen S. what I had for materials( lots of Starrett O1 in various thicknesses and widths, a whole bunch of HC RR spikes, and O1 round stock)- "'Please Glen, make me what I will need." The man makes such fine tools- I figure I cannot really go wrong.mike-- Anti-hijack comment--"Whoopee!!!"

I also have all types but typically make the "bolt" style in standard sizes then adjust them as needed for weird shapes. For example, I have a pair that was set to 7/8 square but will suffice for 3/4 sq without heating and resetting - but they will not hold 1" safely without resetting. I will also sometimes tack a longer bar onto a piece, do all the required hot work then use a zip wheel to cut the tacks, followed by grinding the remnants. I don't do knife work so a little added material here and there usually does no harm.

Flat jaw tongs are almost useless for most work and can be dangerous, especially under a power hammer. That's also a good way to find out how well your tongs fit, as one bad hit with a PH will send the workpiece flying if the fit is poor.

Most of my tongs are based on what I first heard called "Poz" or Pozniak tongs - after the gentleman who demo'd them some years ago. The two halves are laid out facing opposite directions on a piece of flat bar, usually 1/4x1 or 3/8x1. The bar is then split so the reins are cut on the natural taper of crossing the bar from one side to the other. If done properly, this drops two pieces that are almost netshape other than forging the jaws and making the final tweaks. I normally use a 5/16 rivet and set it so both heads match. I always make tongs from mild steel (A36) because I do occasionally quench them from a red temp and have broken a couple pair that were higher carbon.