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Use mud, ramed earth, etc to cover the holes. Do not use concerte. As Mr. Aspery (A.W.C.B.) said, you made the weld, not the fire. Good show.

Anything that would damage the tool / anvil is abuse. Any use for which the tool / anvil was not designed could be considered abuse, including using too heavy a hammer for the size of the anvil.

Thank you for pointing out misinformation, but it does no good unless you also show us the truth. References please.

Using the Hofi name to sell a non-Hofi hammer makes you wonder about integrity of the seller.

Go to the forge and make a hook in the style and size (10, 13, 15, 20 mm stock) of your choice. Locate 2, 3, 4 wall studs to share the load and hang the sword.

Why not Ox/Ac with wrought as filler?

Respectfully you are missing the point. You are suppose to use the proper tongs of the correct size and shape for the work you are doing. Mr. Hofi shows the proper application of the whoop tongs in his tutorial. Bolt tongs are for bolts, blade tongs are for blades, bar tongs are for bar stock, etc. It is dangerous to use tongs on sizes and shapes they were not designed to handle.

Bur Oak Forge Not so good, as it could be easily mispronounced (broke forge).

My ears ring, my anvil rings, and now I have to worry about ringing hammers? Can you get a hammer with an unlisted number?

Punch a hole in the top of the coal and let the flame burn the smoke. Use the flat side, the bottom of the track.

I have the dirty green quench water. Know where I can find some worn out, rust-pitted 1962 International parts?

Try crushed mint leaves in the water.

I favor the dig half, fill half method.

If you want a sharp edge, weld a hardie post to a piece of steel the width of the anvil face.

Why weld on an anvil to make it look like new again before you use it for the first time? Wire brush the face and start hammering.