Mikey98118 Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 A couple years? I've been at this for 22 years, and you were well along before I even got started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 Yeah, but I had a serious jump start with all the inducer information dumped on me by a coffee shop buddy who thought I could adapt a jet ejector to inflate tires using a CO2 capsule as the jet pressure. It took me longer to explain what a "transparent" compressor meant than turn one into a working burner and I don't think he ever gave up on the idea. I already had a linear burner working from burner drawings and description in patent papers for an improved farrier forge. It was right when the internet went public and I was wallowing in patent server nirvana. Then I responded to a post about a treadle hammer by one Chris Ray, not knowing I was responding on Theforge.list, got linked to the Artmetal.list and shortly after met Ron Reil. We got involved in propane burners, he went after making a linear burner as "prefect" as he could get it and I went after detuning a jet ejector enough to make a functional burner from a high volume vacuum pump. I had a functional linear burner working about the 3rd try and the change over to the T linear took maybe a year to develop into something relatively easy to build and made it public. So, yeah I may have been messing with propane burners longer than you but I just copied and adapted well developed devices to plumbing and minimal shop tools and skills. The last real improvement was the real head slapper obvious solution to aligning the whole device from T through the tube of the floor flange clamped to the drill table. That WAS so obvious I'm embarrassed it took me so long to think of it. I had all kinds of Rube Goldberg jigs sketched when the light came on one day in the plumbing supply. Just because I have you on date of play doesn't mean I have nearly as much time developing the things, I just, adopted, adapted and passed it on. My goal was ease of construction for effective device while you were developing a significantly more effective if harder to build one. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 We are all just improving on previous work, whether we know it or not. Anytime I get to feeling uppity, looking at the flame from a blue-flame pocket lighter, brings me back down to earth with a thump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 Doesn't it just. Looking at the innards really makes me feel like a monkey at a typewriter. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HUTT SMITH Posted October 18, 2021 Author Share Posted October 18, 2021 alright.. i have rebuilt my burners in the exact way stated in the blueprints available on this forum.....i run my forge at 7.5 psi..aand the hottest i can accieve is a bright orange forging heat..is there any way to increase the temp so i can get to white hot welding temps? or at least bright yellow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 18, 2021 Share Posted October 18, 2021 Are these the blower assisted cross burners that didn't work a little while back? Are you still lining your forge with hard fire brick? I'm impressed you can get orange heat. Even if you did follow the directions and got the burners right a hard firebrick liner will take a LONG time to reach maximum heat. If it CAN reach welding temp expect it to take a minimum of half an hour, probably more like an hour to reach low yellow. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HUTT SMITH Posted October 18, 2021 Author Share Posted October 18, 2021 i removed the blower from the burners...they are now exactly built according to the blueprints posted on this forum..and yes.. the forge is lined with hard firebrick but i also added a layer of refectory cement on the bottom i can get the forge up to orenge welding heat in roughly 8-10 minutes...but a 20lb propane tank lasts roughly 3-3.5 hours... how could i improve either the burners or the forge itself to raise my temp and maybe cut down on the propane comsumption...or is the consumption at a reasonable level... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 18, 2021 Share Posted October 18, 2021 Hard firebrick is a MASSIVE heat sink and should not be used for a forge that will not be run continuously for large periods of time---say months. I read your question as being similar to "My car has 4 flat tires, what can I do to my engine to get it to go 60 mph" The answer of course is to fix what is wrong rather than mess with what is right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 18, 2021 Share Posted October 18, 2021 Just removed the blower? Is there a burner plan on IFI calling for a cross? If yes, please link me I'd like a look. Can you explain what you believe adding more hard refractory to a major heat sink non-insulating hard brick liner helps? Look, we're not picking on you but you keep modifying simple instructions and plans and asking why they don't work. Did you NOT understand my suggestion to pick ONE set of forge plans and follow it without modification? Looking back I'll amend that to say a PROVEN set of forge plans. There are lots of cut and past references to non-useful forge plans in the Forges 101 thread posted by guys who saw it on the internet. I'll put this as simply as I can. LOSE the hard firebrick, ALL OF IT! Replace it with 2 layers of 1" insulating blanket refractory and hard refractory liner or Morgan Ceramics K-26 insulating Firebrick with a good kiln wash flame face. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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