Jdub2 Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 Hi everyone new to this forum and new to forge welding. I have successfully forge welded 1018 but have had zero success with a36. My big question is what do I look for as an indicator that the metal is ready to come out of the forge? (Propane) forge temp is 2300 to 2500 depending on location in the forge. I don't think I am having a problem with technique just judging when it's ready to weld. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 heres how i did it when i was learning forge welding, and it works for most steels. Im using a coal forge, so modify as needed. bring it up on a slow rising heat. rotate your steel to get an even heat throughout. Flux it at a good orange. Watch it close and when you first see any sparks, give it a little soak and you are there. This pushes the limits because the sparks are bad, but not that bad with a few sparks. its a good enough swop-off to gain the needed experience to easily forge weld A36, or anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 A few sparks are only effecting surface steel that will be lost to scale so it's no loss. Just don't turn the piece into a fireworks display. Yes? Frosty The Lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdub2 Posted September 12, 2021 Author Share Posted September 12, 2021 Thanks Anvil and Frosty. I will give the spark test a whirl. If successful I plan on making a wrapped eye tomahawk out of 1.5w x 3/16 thk stock. I have plenty of stock to practice with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluerooster Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 I may be doing it wrong, but even with a coal forge, I look for it to become the same color as the hot spot. When I pull it out, it's steaming (even with no flux), and a spark or two is being emitted. I usually heat it slow, and allow it to soak real good. I want everything to be the same temp. through and through. Even then, it may not work on the first go. I remember one time, everything looked good, and I smacked it too hard. All my work vanished in a shower of sparks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 The description given by anvil is how I was taught, by a master blacksmith, and it works for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 Note that I've had some A-36 that didn't like welding and other that did fine. If you are doing things right and still having issues---try a different piece! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hheneg Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 Ive had pretty good luck in when the surface starts looking greasy like you dipped it in the deep fryer. Thats for new or clean a36 in a clean fire. I dont use flux for those. If its a large piece or complicated intersection, or uneven surfaces at the contact area I use some borax. the real secret is practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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