Frosty Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 No grilling, we're just stringing you along. Hardened means NOTHING for spark testing, it's the carbon content that determines spark type. Whatever life is in the water will leave a souvenir in the rust. Maybe? "Stinky Iron smithy," is kind of a catchy business name though isn't it? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 10, 2021 Share Posted May 10, 2021 Do not forget that there are wrought iron derived steels like blister steel and shear steel too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scalebar Posted May 10, 2021 Author Share Posted May 10, 2021 (edited) That's the route I was going down, I don't know what they look like in the rough, I presume they retain some of the slag. I've just acquired some modern pandrol clips which I know is a manganese steel. I'm thinking it might be nice to layer those two together, would that be a foolish idea for someone just starting out? Edited May 11, 2021 by Mod30 Remove excessive quote. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Latticino Posted May 10, 2021 Share Posted May 10, 2021 All depends on what kind of layering you mean. Full multiple layers in a pattern welded billet may not give you a blade with a good hardenable edge, if you get a localized concentration of wrought. There may not be appreciable contrast between the two materials on etching, though I suspect there will be. A Gomai, Sanmai, or even Nimai construction with the clip in the center (or on the edge in Nimai) will likely be more successful, but you will have to watch carefully for warping. Some of the coarser wrought leaves a very active surface after etching. This is a wrought/1075 Sanmai kitchen knife I forged for my father: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 10, 2021 Share Posted May 10, 2021 How good are your forge welding skills? Also wrought iron may be very soft under the hammer at proper forging temps and RR steels tend to be stiff under the hammer so you may have an issue where hammering on a welded up billet most of the deformation takes place in the wrought layers. Also will the clip be burning at good working temps for the wrought? Lots of stuff that experience helps a lot on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scalebar Posted May 10, 2021 Author Share Posted May 10, 2021 That is a beautiful knife Latticino, that's what I'm aspiring to. I know I'm not ready for that yet - my forge welding is virtually non existent, scrub the virtually I have a 50% sucess rate - 2 attempts. For the moment I'm going to straighten up the stock I have, and aside from offcuts leave it alone. I might play with a couple of the rivets, I need a shed hasp and staple - I like the look of splayed and heavily etched wrought iron so I I'll hammer one out for the plate and go over the edges a little cold, draw the other out for the staple and give them a dip. These forums are amazing, thank you all for the advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted May 10, 2021 Share Posted May 10, 2021 Here's a belt buckle I made from a piece of WI flat bar, textured with a big ball peen under the nodding donkey. The crack is a permanent reminder not to work the metal too cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 10, 2021 Share Posted May 10, 2021 No picture! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted May 10, 2021 Share Posted May 10, 2021 Check again. I was commenting from my desktop and editing in the photo from my phone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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