Bbrider Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 So I have a two burner Devil forge as my second forge, I started with a wood charcoal drum forge for annealing and tempering. I added a 3/8" layer of kastolite 30 to the original refractory that came with the forge. I have gone through the drying steps to cure it and it seems hard with no cracks in the kastolite. The surface is very rough and I can rub some of the granules off pretty easy. I also bought, thank you Glen, Plastix 900f and planned to apply that tomorrow. Will that help lock the kastolite grains in and how thick a coating should I try to achieve with the Plastix? One coat or two? I have been reading and searching, but can't find an answer to those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 The photos strongly indicate that, once the ends are finished, will end up with a very hot forge. The answer to your finish coating (or coatings) is implicit in the question. Install first coat and heat; if you're satisfied with the result; his answers answer the question for you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 Ditto Mike. I'd rub loose KOL aggregate off then apply a THIN coat of Plistex let it dry and see if I liked it. If not apply another THIN coat. Repeat till happy. Do NOT apply Plistex in one thick coat, it doesn't like people who do that to it and it gets all flaky on them. Frosty The Lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbrider Posted March 26, 2020 Author Share Posted March 26, 2020 Thanks Mike and Frosty! I am just a beginner and have been reading a lot on here along with the YouTube videos. I am very leary of a lot of so called experts and tend to question everything. That said I have never had a problem asking a question to people that know more than me and that is a lot of people on here for sure. I think my first actual use of this forge, before these improvements, I kind of rushed my metal into the forge. I didn't get a very even heat. I know moving the metal around would have helped some, but allowing the forge to get fully heated up would have allowed my metal to heat more evenly without over heating in a couple of spots. I didn't understand those sparklers coming out of my forge were caused by the metal burning. Live and learn. I am also going to get some bricks to use as doors next. Bill 21 hours ago, Mikey98118 said: The photos strongly indicate that, once the ends are finished, will end up with a very hot forge. So if I am reading this right Mikey, you are saying I should add a layer of kastolite on the ends of the forge as well? The kaowool does have some cracks on the end, but being flush with the outer shell I would be sticking out if I added a layer of kastolite. I guess a 1/4" layer wouldn't hurt anything, but it would be easier to damage. I had figured to just cover the cracks and ends with a coat or two of the plastex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 The "ends" of the forge are at the rear and forward openings; until you partially enclose them, or else place movable barriers (ex. brick walls) close to them, you will have a tunnel--not a forge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbrider Posted March 26, 2020 Author Share Posted March 26, 2020 I thought that was what you were saying. I plan to get 4 hard firebrick to use for the ends. Thanks again. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted March 27, 2020 Share Posted March 27, 2020 That will work just fine, for this task. Is it a perfect solution? You don't need a perfect solution; quick and dirty will work here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Binesman Posted March 30, 2020 Share Posted March 30, 2020 Quick and dirty is the best option here. It works very well and is removable so when you decide to make something big or with strange bends it's not as complicated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbrider Posted March 30, 2020 Author Share Posted March 30, 2020 I agree. Going to use soft bricks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 30, 2020 Share Posted March 30, 2020 One thing I have made that I find very useful is a set of "hot firebrick tongs". Tongs sized to grab and move hot firebricks---open up the forge more, close it up more, pick fallen firebricks off the ground, etc. Mine were modified from an extremely ugly hand forged set of nippers----the jaws were steeled and so large that they could be easily reforged to grab and hold firebricks. US$1 at the fleamarket and priceless around the propane forge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbrider Posted March 30, 2020 Author Share Posted March 30, 2020 That is why I started thinking hard bricks. Then I thought about making a stand I could move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vern509 Posted March 30, 2020 Share Posted March 30, 2020 I use the same forge (but bought the 1 door model). Overall happy with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbrider Posted March 30, 2020 Author Share Posted March 30, 2020 I added the kastolite and a layer of the Plastix. I fired it after the kastolite to finish the curing. I have not been able to try it since I added the Plastix. It seemed to work fine as shipped. Not sure how much better it will be now I still need to get my bricks too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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