larrynjr Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 I'm getting ready to do some camping soon and have gotten tired of all the flimsy, plastic and thin aluminum tent pegs that are the norm and decided to make these based on some long nails with plastic heads I've seen used for tent stakes. They are roughly 8" or 20cm long. I used some "scrap" steel from my pile that had once been part of a metal bunk bed frame. They are not exactly the same but close enough for a first batch and for actually use, they will do the job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 Fancy stakes, but won't they crack where they are folded over after a while? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chyancarrek Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 Nice looking stakes. You won't have any problem with Washington camping weather! You know, rain - then wind - then rain - then more wind - then rain and wind. A good ol' fashion PacNW Summer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrynjr Posted July 27, 2008 Author Share Posted July 27, 2008 Fancy stakes, but won't they crack where they are folded over after a while? I'm not sure, guess I'll find out when I use them. They were reheated after forming and allowed to slow cool, except the tip was hardened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solvarr Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 As long as you don't quench the top they should do fine. the fancy top isn't really necessary but if they break it's easy to rework them all of mine look like jas townsend stakes except I make the hooked end fold over a little more. The extra hook is to accomodate the tent stake puller and make it hold the rope better Tying a small loop of tough cord through the nylon/canvas loops on the tent and staking to that will greatly extend the life of your loops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civilwarblacksmith Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 I would like to make a suggestion on making tent stakes. I am concered about the possibility of them cracking and bending under use. I have made alot tent stakes for re-enactors, whose presentations are also camping every weekend. The stakes I make are 12" x 3/8" square stock. These are given a 4 side taper point. The other end is then bent to a hook 1" back. The reason for the size and shape is the depth you can drive them into the ground for the tent. It will keep the tent planted. Also the square shape will not turn in the ground as round stock will. If you are making stakes for a dining fly I would suggest making them 24"- 30" x 1/2" to allow for a spring action in normal winds. If storm winds arrive, the stakes can be driven alot deeper so that the fly isn't blown away. This style lasts the re-enactors a long time unless they lose them like they usualy do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 I made quite a few pegs during the immediate aftermath of the earthquake. I just used our old friend rebar. Put a chisel point on one end and quench at purple. Allow the other end to air cool. These were being driven into thin concrete, dirt, rocky ground etc. and my Rustmart motto still stands. Not one broke! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rthibeau Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 The design of tent stakes depends a lot on what type of soil you will be putting them in to. The types so far are great for heavy or clayish soil. Up here in Michigan it's mostly a real sandy soil and those don't hold well. I've made them from 3/4 inch angle iron, 24 to 30 inch long, with a point on the one end and the other bent over to a hook so the angle is away from the tent. This makes a good anchor in sandy soil when angled so the wide side is holding the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 Here in windy NM I use scrap rebar and make them substantially longer---we had 50 mph winds last campout and I ended up lending and then selling all my large stakes. Of course we are not using nylon "small" tents for the most part but medieval designs. With the high UV index and the rocky ground plastic stakes last an average of 1.5 campouts and fail during installation so there is always a market for the forged ones. I have a student who is learning that whenever he comes by to forge and doesn't have a project he gets to make stakes---pays for his propane use and does help his hammer control as he points them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civilwarblacksmith Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 In sandy or loose soil, you can add a flat triangular shape welded to the back of the stake and make what some call a sand hog stake. Name given from it's use on beaches to hold down cabanas and tents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry W. Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 A good addition would be a handled tool with a hook to pull them back out of the ground when it is time to pack up..... Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarbearforge Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 These are the kind that I make for re-enactment events. They hold better than rebar. I make them from either 1/2 inch square or 3/8. Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrynjr Posted July 29, 2008 Author Share Posted July 29, 2008 (edited) A good addition would be a handled tool with a hook to pull them back out of the ground when it is time to pack up..... Jerry I use this type of tool................... Sorry Jerry, I just couldn't resist! Edited July 29, 2008 by larrynjr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrynjr Posted July 29, 2008 Author Share Posted July 29, 2008 Part of the reason I made mine the shape I did was to have a flat area to hammer on, directly above the stake shaft. The rounded heads of many of these other types puts the downward force past the center of the stake shaft, which with the cheaper aluminum version cause them to bend easily. Not an issue with the steel ones! Many of the places I camp have river rock just under the surface so having a stake that will drive straight down without bending is going to be a plus. I'm leaving to go camping on Sat. so I'll let you know how these stand up to being hammered on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtforge Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 As long as you don't quench the top they should do fine. the fancy top isn't really necessary but if they break it's easy to rework them all of mine look like jas townsend stakes except I make the hooked end fold over a little more. The extra hook is to accomodate the tent stake puller and make it hold the rope better Townsend's tent stake are currently being made with the hook about 45 deg. I think the picture is old. I have been making their tent stakes for a while now. I try to keep the top as close to inline with the shaft as I can so it pounds in better. I also don't quench any of my tent stakes. I would rather have them bend a little than break. This weekend at a show I repaired about a dozen tent stakes for another participant. They had either craked or broke off all together. He said the blacksmith had quenched them to make them stronger. I let them air cool before I gave them back. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironrosefarms Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Here is a rough drawing of the tent stakes I make, just got an order for 50 of them due before Christmas... 3/8" square stock, bottom gets a little twist near the point, top is bent over on itself but not welded and the loop is for tying ropes to with about 5/8" id and is not welded either. Stake stands about 14" though I have made another set for my dining fly that are a full 2 foot long but are made from 1/2" stock. I have been using my first set of 10 of these for about 15 years with no cracking or major distortion and the dining fly set have been used for 5 years. The only problem is there is one at a local campsite that will not come out of the ground as my son drove it into a tree root and has now been there for 4 years, very obvious a lot of people have tried to get it out but it is still there and we use it each time we revisit the site. Last time I left a business card hooked to the stake, maybe someone will place an order for more? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 You can have a problem with ropes getting pulled into a tight bend and then locking there; high gusty winds or abuse by untrained "help" can do it. One way to avoid it is to twist the doubled over part so it can't open up much and eat a rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironrosefarms Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 On mine the rope goes through the loop or eye not around the driven rod. Also something I failed to mention was the loop (or eye) is rounded out so the square stocks corners doesn't wear through the rope. The curved section keeps the stake from being driven too far into the ground as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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