Looks good!  I learned the hard way to make it taller than I think I will need it.

I'm going to make this one a but taller just because. Right now the blade will just fit up to the tang.

I drew out the sword more and started forging in the bevels. I also heat treated my draw shave. It developed a warp and a twist but I was able to clamp it and tempered it while clamped straight and it straightened right out. I will get some photos in a bit when I get out to the shop.

More drawing out of the bevels. 

How's the distal taper?

It's there. I could draw it down a little and blend the base into the tip a little better.

What's the current weight? Length?  With the parallel sides it looks like an earlier type of sword rather than high middle ages or later.

Distal taper is so easy for a smith to make but much harder for stock removal to make; a good way to guess if a blade is made by a smith or by a machinist.

(And almost *EVERYONE* makes swords too heavy when starting out!)

The blade is 33 inches long and weighs 42.7 ounces. 

The grinding should drop that weight into the sweet spot; well done!

Free hand grinding isn't easy to do on the bottom idler wheel but I managed to get a pretty straight fuller rough ground in. Dropped the weight to 39.5 oz and a lot more grinding is to be done.

here is an update. Fuller ground forge redesigned to run in the vertical position. A tempering oven almost finished. And my quench tank made and extended.

I quenched it and did an oil temper and decided there were some things I really didnt like. Fullers off and one fuller kinda wandered back and forth. Every effort to fix it made it worse. The plastic bottom wheel on my 2x72 caused some bumping and jumping. So I stress tested it. Took a lot to snap it.

Here is the grain

Moderators what is an appropriate size for photos?

New sword started from forklift fork. The railroad track moved way easier under the hammer. It's a bit longer now than what the picture shows.

This time starting billet was 2 lbs instead of 3

Thank you for the update!

 

My next purchase is going to be a fullering tool, every time I try to grind one it it looks just like yours.  

Its 31 inches long not including the tang and only weighs 28.2 ounces and still needs the bevels and fuller ground in.

On 2/19/2020 at 9:24 PM, swedefiddle said:

The name, "Blade Shaped Object" doesn't care what material you will use. Trying to create a sword is an exercise in frustration and futility. I would not be in a rush to create small pieces (which will happen). Learn more by making Positive Carma, a project that you can start and see a finished project without failure. Negative Carma is the world of swords, tons of work and frustration, to be shattered at any point during the exercise. Start by putting your piece in the scrap pile, before you create Negative Carma.

Ha ha, reminds me of John Cleese (Basil, Fawlty Towers) who after 4 failed marriages is quoted to say that now ... " I try to bypass the middleman. I date women I dislike and buy them a house"

On 3/21/2020 at 12:17 PM, Benona blacksmith said:

So I stress tested it. Took a lot to snap it.

Kudos to you for being willing to sacrifice all the effort put in so far for the sake of testing your skill and achievement. 

Like the way you have the forge set up, may have to try that.

And we have another failed blade. This time I tried to forge the fullers in and it was a complete failure!!! I will get pictures later when I get back home. At least i can heat treat it and do some more destructive tests

Skeletonize the blade?

Dont buy a fullering tool off ebay.  I did and its complete junk.

 

I should have bought the hardy and hammer and used my teenager as a striker.  Lost a blade to it.

I may be able to grind a wider fuller and be able to save it.

here is the new blade. I'm a little further than shown in the photo. I'm shooting for an Oakeshott Type X

Looks like a decent start of a fuller if you have the appropriate contact wheel for grinding it and it's not too thin in the middle.

I have a 6 inch contact wheel that I'm setting my grinder up to use. It's just a cheap ebay wheel. Hopefully its balanced ok.

How are you going to grind the fuller: dress the wheel to have a curved surface or DANGER DANGER try to push the blade sideways on the cheap wheel to use it's circumference curve DANGER DANGER

I have a bader belt grinder with contact wheels going down to around 1/2" to use. If I did not I would probably use a sen and dowel wrapped with abrasive paper to clean up the fuller.  Sideways pressure on a cheap grindstone can result in hideous injuries!