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I Forge Iron

What Style Hammer is This?


Greebe

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Just curious if this hammer is considered a specific style or if it is just a German pattern with some bevels forged on the corners. I like the looks of it, but have no experience with this style hammer. All my hammers have either round or octagon faces and did not know if the square face would work well. I like that it has a large radius peen as well.

 

hammer.png.0e0a9933d3b3c3cda1a85be57a1875ee.png

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Looks a lot like the hammer style Elmer Roush makes (the simpler, non-"carved" ones).  I'm not sure what he calls it, but they move metal very nicely.  I'm working on finishing one up for myself as I prefer a rectangular face for forging due to the option for fullering in a variety of directions.

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Stock was 1.5" x 1.5" x 4".  Initial weight was 1.14 kg, after punching and initial forging and shaping I'm at 1.035 kg.  Still in progress,  but will try to post photo. Still need to anneal well enough to finish chasing, then chance a heat treatment.  Unfortunately had to miss the Elmer Roush class due to a family emergency,  so this is certainly a poor man's version of his work. 20200210_213325.thumb.jpg.c87278b2a5018ac81130576608f9cfc1.jpg

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  • 5 months later...

It's on the docket, so to speak.  I've got that one and four others (one dog's head, one Swedish crosspeen, a German Crosspeen, and a Thomas Latine inspired crosspeen) to finish up and heat treat.  Starting to pile up, but I've been working on axes, knives and hawks lately.  Having a little trouble chasing the hammers effectively to get the carving depth I want.  The hot work I originally did went well, but the detailed cold chasing is playing hob with my tools.  I'll have to forge some new ones, and fortunately have a nice donation of cutup sucker rod to work with for the purpose.

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  • 2 years later...

I've never been too particular about the shape/length of a hammer. For me its the weight and working faces that matter. 

Latticino's hammer fits my bill for a good hammer. 

For me a square faced hammer is more efficient than octagon because the most work done is drawing out and a straight line or edge does it all in one blow. If its octagon, you have to tune up the facets.

Same goes for the cross peen. A flat face with slightly radius'd edges moves all material under the hammer in one blow to the same depth. With a radius, only the centerline of the cross peen is at final depth, and you have to do multiple blows to turn that round depression into a flat. 

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For what it is worth, I have finished the hammer in the photo above and used it successfully on many forgings.  It is a great pattern and size.  The only thing I will change for any future hammers of this design would be to move the "nostrils" a little further towards the peen.  When I ground the slight radius into the face after forging the edges in those locations aren't as well supported as I would like.

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