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Trenton Anvil, history and info


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It is my first anvil, as I am the last guy to enter the circle of fire.. :-)

Picked up this Trenton, yesterday. It has 145 and 77045 inscribed on its legs. It looks like it has taken some abuse, though it has a flat top. The horn seems to have endures the worst beating.

Any idea when it was made? 
How would you rate its condition? and what do you think it is worth?
And one final rhetorical question: Why would anyone paint an anvil red?!955578237_Trenton7.thumb.jpg.48d45a983fcfdfcc1e2fc4562abc5a17.jpg

Trenton 5.jpg

Trenton 6.jpg

Trenton 1.jpg

Trenton 4.jpg

Trenton 2.jpg

Trenton 3.jpg

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Welcome to IFI, I sure someone with a copy of AIA will be along to answer when it was made. In the meantime have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST

What it is worth largely depends upon where in the world it is located, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show location. To me it looks like a perfectly serviceable anvil as long as the rebound & ring is satisfactory. Have you read about not doing any milling, grinding or welding on the hardened top plate? As far as painting it red, it beats hot pink.:lol:

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Welcome aboard Khalid, glad to have you. 

Somebody with "Anvils in America" will be along to answer your age question.

She's in pretty darn good condition and she's done some hard work. The edge chipping on the Logo side of the anvil isn't too bad, don't worry about dressing it till you have some time working on her, in a year or so you'll have a much better idea what you want ad need. Make sense?

The face will smooth up and begin to shine as you hammer hot steel on her, it's in good shape don't do anything to the face. Have you done a rebound test on her? The test is as difficult as dropping a bearing ball, 1/2" dia is plenty, ignore the guys calling for 1" bearings, bigger isn't better. Anyway, drop it from 10" and estimate how far it bounces back as a %. Dropping it from 10" makes it easier if you don't have practice judging this kind of thing. Ideally it'll rebound 90%+ 75% pluss is pretty good but under 70% is getting marginal. Make sense?

The horn has repetitive job wear, the smith had a product he made regularly enough to indent the horn in those locations. The top of Trenton horns weren't high carbon steel nor hardened so they wore faster than the face. It's not in bad shape and heck you might find one of those is PERFECT for what you want to do.

The step's taken a beating but there are ways to work around it so you don't need to do anything to it. 

It's painted red, is that an issue? If it is a right angle grinder and cup wire brushes will take care of that little thing for you. Wear breathing and eye protection when power brushing paint, there's no telling what kind it is or what's under it. Breathing and eye protection is BARE MINIMUM, wire brushes are dangerous power tools they can tangle in loose clothing, and the least touch WILL remove skin and meat.  A leather apron isn't unreasonable if it's belted and not flapping.

Of course you can put a coat of a color you like better. Nobody is likely to steal a pink anvil, two local companies paint all their equipment pink, one is Pepto Bismal pink. My shop colors are green and gold.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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I just remembered that someone had posted a picture of Trenton serial numbers and I found it. According to Anvils in America serial number 77045 was made in 1908. For a value, in my area it would sell for about $300-400 U.S. of course if your area is an anvil desert it could go for more maybe $500.

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Frosty,

Thank very much buddy you're very kind and gracious to take the time explaining details to which, I was completely oblivious. 

I am just about ready to start forging and I will use Trenton as is for now. As for the red.. I don't really care.. :-) 

All The Best and God Bless

 

Iron Dragon, 

Thanks for researching Trenton.. I paid for him $250.. I bought it to work on it, so it is good enough for me.

 

Folks, how can I reply to each post individually.. should I use the quote button or just reply in the bottom?

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/2/2019 at 12:35 AM, Khalid Turaani said:

Folks, how can I reply to each post individually.. should I use the quote button or just reply in the bottom?

If you highlight just the part of a person's post you want to answer a "quote" button will appear under it. Click the button and only that part will appear in the text window with the person's name, date, etc. attached. This is how I quoted you, see above.

You don't need to thank everybody individually every time someone answers a question, makes a suggestion or such, most of us enjoy helping folks. It makes me feel good to help folk so I help as much for me as others. I'm selfish that way you know. ;)

10 hours ago, Welding Rod said:

This is welding rod made this miniature anvil to go with a 1/20 scale model of my grandfathers 1862 civil war dairy barn

That's a very cool barn Welding Rod. Do you know how the interior was set up? It must be nice to have a close association with your past history. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Had no blueprints had to do everything by memory talked to a few family members to try to get closer to the original layout the actual scale is pretty close looked at some old barns to see how they were framed wish I’d had some concrete dimensions though the build date of the barn and the names of the six carpenters that built the barn were carved into one of the main center beams sadly the carving was lost when the barn was torn down in the late 70s 

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