piglet_74 Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 I went out early this morning and started laying out a stand for my rail and my leg vise. I noticed that the rail was exactly 5 1/2" tall so I had some scrap 4x6 and 4x4 sitting around. A quick trip to HD and stuck this together. Seems like it's pretty solid and is easy to move with a hand truck. I just have to fasten down the rail. I also found the drain that was mentioned in another thread to use as a firepot so for $17 I had to grab it and give it a shot. I'd love to hear some folks thoughts on the stand. I'm either going to cover over the tops of the tubes with something soft or put something in them I can use for shaping that won't kill me if I miss a swing. Thanks, Rob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 I've never seen a set up like it so I count on your reports of how it works. At a glance (well more than a glance actually) I think I would've made sure the mounting board was below the top of the rail so pieces you're working on can pass cleanly across. Also, sharpening one of the flanges on the rail would make a handy hot cut for you. For safety's sake put a piece of slit hose over the edge when not in use so you don't hit it with something that bleeds. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welder19 Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 That's different, I'll be curious to hear how you like it, I do like seeing different ideas and deisigns, so definately let us know how it works out. welder19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Leppo Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 You Could Also Round One Of The Flanges Of The Rail To Use As A Bottom Fuller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piglet_74 Posted June 30, 2008 Author Share Posted June 30, 2008 (edited) Thanks, guys. Frosty I like the idea of making a hot cut. I'll have to look into that. I'll let you guys know how it works out. I'm thinking it's probably only a useful design for someone using rail though. I did have another idea about something else though. I have a sewing machine pedal from an old machine. I was thinking about making a "curtain spot quencher". I was thinking if I rig the pedal up to a small fish tank pump or something I could create a wide waterfall like curtain of water. Then if I wanted to cool an area I could bring the stock in from the side and just cool a thin area or move it forward or back to get more. The reason I thought of this was when I took the class I was not very good at controlling the water with the watering can. I was thinking this might help with making precise twists and for upsetting etc. Any thoughts? Rob. PS kind of like this but straight up and down. Edited June 30, 2008 by piglet_74 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinD Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 You're creative, resourceful and full of ideas. Don't let what others think get in the way. Keep what works and fix the rest till it does. Real life, family, money might get first priority but I think you are going to be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Have to agree with kevin ! Nice to see new creative ideas ! Best of luck ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Use the pipes to make swing away tong racks and hammer racks, may have to shim them smaller and then drop in a piece like an L turned sideways that will swivel out of the way but you can hang tongs on. Make another and do a couple of loops for hammer handlels for the other side. BTW don't know if this applys but; I would not use pressure treated lumber for the top board as it will get burnt and no need to have any more toxic smoke around than necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piglet_74 Posted June 30, 2008 Author Share Posted June 30, 2008 TP, thanks I was trying to think of how to do the tongs and hammers since the back side is unused space. Good point on the Pressure Treated too. I wasn't thinking about that when I was looking for scrap around my yard. I'm not planning on leaving it outside anyway. If I moved the frame down three to four inches and built up under the vise, would that be enough you think? Then I could take advantage of Goatmans idea with the bottom fuller too. Thanks, Rob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 I like the waterfall idea. And Thomas's tong/hammer rack is a good add on too. I've built, rebuilt, torn down and built it again so many times I don't think twice about doing it again. In truth I usually think WAY more than twice before getting started and way more than twice during, after and during rebuilds. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keykeeper Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 (edited) So, you suffer from the over-thinker'er malady, also, Frosty? Must be an ailment common to blacksmither'ers! My problem is that during my overthinkedness-ing, I have attacks of brain flatulence. By the way Piglet, I think the selective waterfall stock coolerator idea is brilliant. Edited June 30, 2008 by keykeeper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 You COULD say I like my options open and contingencies planned. I'm not completely hopeless though, there've even been times things came out as planned! On the whole though I'm one of those guys who get's positively giddy over meeting the boys at the coffee shop with graph paper and wild ideas for simple problems. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnr Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Frosty!!! Seems we think a lot the same. Swapping ideas over a few gallons of coffee is FUN!!! Finnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 Ayup! Next time Deb and I visit the mid-west we should have a coffee-in and swap techniques, tricks and tips. And who knows if fire happens . . . I married a Uper on an internet deal. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnr Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 COME ON DOWN!!!!! LOL! Finnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 That would certainly help; you could always armour it with a thin piece of sheet metal if you needed to. If you have access to a good weldor you could weld a piece of stout sq tubing to the web to use as a hardy hole---it's a fairly high carbon steel and so would require pre/post heat treat though. Frosty; try coming down when you can get to Quad-State too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 Use an old 1" drive impact socket welded flush with the face for your hardy. As soon as we get some things squared away around here Deb and I plan on doing some traveling. She wants to hit goat shows and visit breeders. I'm looking to hit smithing conferences and visit smiths. So far our travels have worked out pretty well. Quad State would be good. Pennsic too. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piglet_74 Posted July 2, 2008 Author Share Posted July 2, 2008 I was wondering about that actually. I have a cheap flux core mig that I do some odd things with. I wasn't sure what the rail was made of though so i figured I could just stick it together with that and see. I'll have to dig up some info on it. I'm better with OA and I know that throws some heat into the base metal so maybe that would be a good route. The other thing I was thinking was just making "hardies" that have a slot to the bottom of them that sits on the webbing. I guess that depends on the use though. I really need to get some heat together and start using it because I think that'll show me what things work and which don't. I almost had one of the kids hold the rosebud for me while I played around. The nephew was cute looking with a welding jacket, leather apron, goggles, gloves, boots... That's not a good permanent setup though! Rob PS. Frosty, Pennsic, like the SCA thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 Does this help any?---I have a file on what I consider good info on RR steels: I am citing the Arema (The American Railway Engineering and Maintenance-of-Way Association) 2007 document, Part 2 "manufacture of Rail" Standard rail steel: .74 to.86% Carbon, .75 to 1.25% Manganese, .10 to .60% Silicon Minimum Brinell (of unhardened surface) 310 or 370 dependant of grade ordered. Low Alloy Rail Steel .72 to .82% Carbon, .80 to 1.10% Manganese, .25 to .40& Chromium, .10 to .50% Silicon Minimum Brinell (of unhardened surface) 310, 325, or 370 dependant of grade ordered. My document shows the following breakdown for grades: SS = standard strength (brinell 310) HH = Head Hardened (brinell 370) LA = Low Alloy Standard Strength (brinell 310) IH = Low Alloy Intermediate (brinell 325) LH = Low Alloy Head Hardened (brinell 370) May differ for very old rail though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 Frosty, Pennsic, like the SCA thing? Yes, the very SCA thing. I've been invited to a traditional, period, scotch tasting party when I make it. Rail isn't hard to work but it is HC and needs the appropriate care. It cuts and drills just fine if you go slow and lubricate. I use my cutoff bandsaw, just cut from the flange towards the rail. The rail surface is induction hardened and will dull a saw blade, drillbit, etc. almost on contact. However, it's only a few thou thick so if you come at it from the back you're home free. That is SO old west. If the opposition is too hard, sneak up and drill him from behind. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Leppo Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 Frosty You make Scotch? smoking malt with tundra peat, no doubt!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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