Eventlessbox Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 Late getting back to the party, been doing my side hustle to try to grab a 186# sawyers anvil before I miss the chance. Thanks so much for those measurements. Lets me know what size t burners if I go that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louspinuso Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 No problem. Good luck on that anvil acquisition! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eventlessbox Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 Pray for me. If it is in the shape it looks to be in I will not need another anvil for a long time. And only a 2 hour drive, which for florida is quite short. And if my math is right then he is shooting the weight and it will be over 200. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 5 hours ago, louspinuso said: Exactly!! That's insane! Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louspinuso Posted February 25, 2019 Author Share Posted February 25, 2019 Ok, so Saturday night I applied the Greenpatch 421 in the forge. It dried pretty xxxx stiff overnight. This stuff dries very rough, as Dodge said back in 2009 in this topic. As a result, last night (off camera) I thinned some down to a paste like consistency, basically thin enough to move easily with a little trowel pressure but thick enough that it doesn't run, and layed it on the bottom of the forge about 1/4 inch thick. I think I'll add a little bit more on top of that when this dries, maybe another 1/8 - 1/4 inch and the go through the drying process. I'll definitely get that on camera. I didn't get any pictures while I was doing the work as my hands were just FULL of the stuff and I didn't want to get it on my phone or camera. I'll take some screen grabs out of the video to post, but this stuff, even after mixing well with a mortar paddle, is THICK, like clay so instead of troweling it on, I grabbed it in my hands and smeared it on over everything as evenly as I could. Most of the inside looks like the outside of a typical Florida stucco house. Not sure if perfectly smooth is necessary, we'll see how this reacts. At this rate I'll be (hopefully) burning this stuff in by next weekend and possibly even beating on some steel. As usual, thanks for the words of encouragement and all the help. Lou Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eventlessbox Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 Lou, Thank you for all the updates and walkthroughs on your process here. The anvil fell through somsomeone beat me too it by a few days. But it has made me decide a better forge then my ugly metal box would be a smarter purchase first. Also after your stucco comment I realized we arnt too far from one another, I'm in dixie county. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louspinuso Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 Eventlessbox, Yep just about two hours away. If you're ever in or around Pasco and want to grab a beer, give me a holler. Lou Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louspinuso Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 Ok, just got to my computer and can finally post the photos I took tonight. As you can see, the bottom, which is much smoother, is where I thinned down the Greenpatch 421 with water and spread. This is also where the cracks are forming. The sides (and top) where I spread it as the thickness that it was in the tub (I mixed well before using) there is no cracking, but there is plenty of rough texture. I believe that this is because there is very little to NO water in this product and is all held together with water glass. To the end I wonder if maybe thinning this out with more water glass would be a better option as it might shrink less (but I'm not sure if it's even worth it) but then there's the concern that there is less material when it does dry. The full strength medium appears "fully dried" at this point, however, I would still oven heat it until I'm sure all moisture was driven off. Where I thinned it to make it more spreadable (and cracking) the center is still "damp" even though the outer edges have dried. I think at this point the plan is to wait for the center to dry completely, mix up another not so loose batch, spread it thinly on the floor fill in the cracks and wait for another drying cycle. Rinse, repeat until the bottom looks sufficiently hard and smooth with no cracking. Stay tuned, I guess! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 You have a very good overall shape, which is going to do a lot for performance. The lack of smoothness will have no effect on performance. Dry it out and light it up. I'm predicting at least lemon yellow incandescence; probably light yellow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eventlessbox Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 Ironically you are the second smith from pasco I've met here on IFI. This has helped me make a much more informed decision on if I should go this route. Think I am but spring just a tad more for the two burner with back door. Still holding off till I hear how the burners themselves worked out for you. Also another quick question. Where the supplies red hose hooks to the burners. Can you take a close up pic. Or let me know if the compression nipple the hose hooks to is a screwed on piece. I'd like to save the $20 and use my current hose and regulator but it is 1/4" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 The burners on this forge brand work okay. So saith the burner guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eventlessbox Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 Awsome. I'm thinking of using my two frosty t to build a foundry so I can do castings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louspinuso Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share Posted February 27, 2019 3 hours ago, Eventlessbox said: Also another quick question. Where the supplies red hose hooks to the burners. Can you take a close up pic. Or let me know if the compression nipple the hose hooks to is a screwed on piece. I'd like to save the $20 and use my current hose and regulator but it is 1/4" I'll have to take my calipers to it, but it's just a stainless steel tube that is welded in place. I have a neighbor that works in a shop where they do a lot of car restorations and he said that he could weld a stainless steel barb on there if I wanted and if I find one, I think I'll do it. The hose slips over that and is held in place with a hose clamp 3 hours ago, Mikey98118 said: You have a very good overall shape, which is going to do a lot for performance. The lack of smoothness will have no effect on performance. Dry it out and light it up. I'm predicting at least lemon yellow incandescence; probably light yellow I'm more afraid of messing this up than anything else. If you think those cracks are ok then I'll start the drying out process tomorrow during the day and try to fire it by tomorrow night (weather permitting). Here's hoping. You guys are awesome, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louspinuso Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share Posted February 27, 2019 Just posted the video on applying the Greenpatch 421 in the forge. Figured I'd post it here in case anyone was curious to see what the process I used looks like. Anyway, here's the video. I look forward to any comments that you may have that can help me improve my techniques. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eventlessbox Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 Thanks Lou, I'll just spend the $20 to have their regulator and gauge pack. Looks like I'd spend close to that to retrofit for what I already have. You've helped me a lot on this decision. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louspinuso Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share Posted February 27, 2019 You're welcome Eventlessbox. I'm hoping to put fire to forge tonight so we'll see what the flames look like and how well this process I'm following holds up over the next few weeks. Hopefully this information is helpful and informative to other people as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 17 hours ago, louspinuso said: If you think those cracks are ok then I'll start the drying out process tomorrow during the day and try to fire it by tomorrow night (weather permitting). This is the fun side of cracks; the very same refractory cement we don't wont people trying to replace castable refractory with, happen to be very good at patching up cracks with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louspinuso Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share Posted February 27, 2019 9 minutes ago, Mikey98118 said: This is the fun side of cracks; the very same refractory cement we don't wont people trying to replace castable refractory with, happen to be very good at patching up cracks with Thanks Mikey. I've got the forge in my oven right now. I'm waiting for it to cool down just a little bit in the closed oven then I'll move it to my garage and plumb the burners to the propane, place the burners in the ports and bring it outside and fire it up. Should have a photo or 2 posted tonight or tomorrow to show how everything is burning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 Refractory cement is good for . . . something!? Avoiding the cracks in the first place is easy but takes time and patience. Apply the refractory in thin layers and allow to dry completely between coats. The first coat absorbs moisture from the second and expands while the second coat is shrinking. What you see happening here is similar to spraying a second coat of paint before the first one is completely dry. It's easy to patch though don't sweat it. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louspinuso Posted February 28, 2019 Author Share Posted February 28, 2019 Thanks Frosty. I was pretty sure that this was cracking because I used too much water to thin it out before applying that second lower layer in an effort to get a smoother finish, though what you say makes perfect sense. I never did get a chance to fire up the forge yesterday. I had some late work and then a sick baby so that killed a few hours I wasn't expecting. I have some more late work tonight (two upgrades at midnight and 0100) so between baby bedtime (2030) and that first upgrade, I'll have 4 hours I need to stay awake so I'll likely have photos of the burners burning tonight. Thanks for all the guidance, this forum is great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louspinuso Posted March 1, 2019 Author Share Posted March 1, 2019 Ok, I finally hooked up the burners and lit the forge. I played with it a bit and ran it for 15 minutes, then let it cool for 15 minutes then fired it for 15 minute then let it cool for 15 minutes and then fired it for 30 minutes. These photos are from that 30 minute firing. During the previous firings I was messing with the pressure and the choke(?) settings. Anyway, when it first starts up, the flame looks as follows (the first image was shot with a higher shutter speed to try to get "better" photos). As you can see, it starts out with all blue flames ( and quite a bit of dragons breath) After about 5 minutes, it looks like this As you can see the dragons breath has turned orange, but the flame from the burner still appears to be blue. After 30 minutes, nothing much has changed from the 5 minute mark. Not sure if I need to lower the pressure, or let more air in. The pressure is very low now as it is (I'll have to get a good photo and do the conversion tomorrow, had to run in to get online and start this upgrade), it's barely registering on the gauge. And in the last pic, you can see how "open" the air intake is. Is this ok or is there something I need to work on here? Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 I think we are seeing an ongoing process of gasses cooking off, while the refractory is being fired. Never try to put baffle walls on this forge. There isn't enough horizontal distance between its two exhaust openings and the burner's air intakes. You will have to run the forge with its ends wide open, or use traditional narrowing at the front exhaust and close the back exhaust completely, in order to gain some forward momentum in the exhaust gases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 On the other hand, I think this forge will run super hot just as is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louspinuso Posted March 1, 2019 Author Share Posted March 1, 2019 Mikey, Thanks for that info. I'll continue to burn off the gasses. Hopefully I'll have time to beat on some steel this weekend. I'm so excited Lou Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 You did a good job on finishing that forge; it's a good design to begin with; I have every confidence in the both of ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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