So I built this forge out of angle iron. Welded together . I got the air to it and made a sweet ash drop door . So I fired it up today after I got the chimney in place . It’s 12x12 then down to 10x10 and 8x8 in tiers . Welded together . So it’s all solid . As I was trying it out for the first time I was able to get the fire going and it got pretty hot quick . Was able to get the rr spike yellow ! So I decided to let the fan run for a bit just to see how it would hold up . I was watching and noticed the sides of my pot we getting almost red . So I shut the fan off . And put some water around it . So question is am I insane ? Is this a bad idea the angle iron isn’t super thick probably 1/8” thick . Also should I use refactory cement to prevent the sides from getting so hot or just use water down the sides. I feel like I should have my fire higher but not sure how to go about getting it above the second tier . This was just a trial run to see if it will hold up for a real run . I think I need to make some adjustments . I will have the wall blocked off shortly . Everyone here has been awesome with all the help ! I wouldn’t have gotten this far with out all the help ! Super excited to get going ! Thank you all !

Angle iron is really not suitable for a fire pot (too thin) 3/8 plate works good. Another thing is the fire pot should be about level with the hearth so fuel can be raked in easier. You might have a look at this fire pot, easy to make and will last a long time.

http://www.bamsite.org/firepot.html

 

 

I was afraid of that . Could I just double up the on the angle iron? Would the refactory cement help? Or do I need to just find something else entirely ?

16 hours ago, Chuckbuckeye said:

So question is am I insane ?

You're a blacksmith, aren't you?

What IDFC says is all on-point. Don't bother with refractory cement, which really has no place in a solid-fuel forge.

Your go-get-ive-ness is admirable, and this is a great first start. Don't get discouraged. Buy or scrounge some 3/8" plate and weld up a proper firepot, and you'll be good to go.

(Also, use the angle iron to make a rim around the edge of the table, to keep the coal from dribbling over the edges. Just leave gaps at the front and sides to allow longer stock to pass through.)

As a temporary measure, you could line the angle iron fire pot with clay. I've done that for repairs. Just be aware it won't last very long but it will work until you find some plate.

Ok thanks guys . I can’t get discouraged at this point as I am too excited to start ! Pretty sure my neighbors heard my “wheeew!!!!” Yesterday probably a block away . Lol I am going to stop by a scrap yard on the way home and see if I can get a drum or disc for cheap . I was planning on putting some angle around the sides of the whole thing to keep coal in there but wanted to test it out first . Thanks again ! Super helpful as always !

1 hour ago, Chuckbuckeye said:

I was afraid of that . Could I just double up the on the angle iron? Would the refactory cement help? Or do I need to just find something else entirely ?

you can purchase a new cast fire pot from New England Blacksmiths and they can ship.  They ship them all over the country and you can get infor from their sight on IFI here

I've never met a mechanic who wasn't happy to load me up with out of spec drums and disks!  I made a bottle opener from a wrench for the one I use---they have it on the wall of the office.

When looking for a brake "rotor" look for something that was rear disc brakes with the drum style E brakes. Inner diameter around 8-9" and around 2-3" deep. (I find them to work well) not ideal for Everything, but a friend and I have forged 3# hammer heads using it if you tend the fire well.  Auto repair shops are all over the place to ask around and I have found the TPAAAT works great for about any object. 

Well I was having trouble finding a salvage yard apparently there ain’t a lot of those left .... well I lucked out ! My dad had a couple sitting in his garage . Took the plate that I mounted the other tuyere off of my angle iron forge and welded it up to the rotor . Hoping to run into a nice drum soon. Going to test that tonight and see how she holds up . 

1 hour ago, Daswulf said:

When looking for a brake "rotor" look for something that was rear disc brakes with the drum style E brakes. Inner diameter around 8-9" and around 2-3" deep. (I find them to work well) not ideal for Everything, but a friend and I have forged 3# hammer heads using it if you tend the fire well.  Auto repair shops are all over the place to ask around and I have found the TPAAAT works great for about any object. 

What’s a TPAAAT? 

 

Use your browsers search engine with: TPAAAT site:iforgeiron.com  (google had over 200 hits for it).

The native search engine for these forums is not very useful; however most browsers do a good job if you can filter the results down using the specific site.

(I've posted the details so many times they made an Acronym of it...I've got the shirt!)

That’s hilarious and would love to try it out . Here is what I’m working with for now .