Improvements to my Rail Anvil??

[racer3j]

PLEASE- THIS LONG WEEKEND MAY BE ABOUT THE ONLY TIME I HAVE TO DO THIS! Otherwise I would not SHOUT for help.As our old vets can see, the edges on the RA have a quite soft radius. I am thinking of using one of my stationary 6" belt sanders to carefully flatten about 6" starting behind the taper of the horn. I don't want to do this at the hardy end because I want to retain full thickness to absorb the more localized force, concentrated at the hardy-hole. An option would be to weld 3/4"(would attach using hardy) shank to a flat, sharper edged piece of hardened and drawn steel plate. The problem I see there is that the plate would still be resting on the rounded "peak" of the face and use would likely just bend the plate to the radius below. It looks nice with the patina, but the size makes it useful. What would you pros do to make it a good worker? Thanks, jet/mt

Edited May 24, 2008 by racer3j

[racer3j]

PLEASE-Reply to my own post. I could build metal on the top of the horn with my mig and then shape that to give some radius to the top of the horn. Thoughts on that?mt-Again, sorry for yelling.

Edited May 24, 2008 by racer3j

[Glenn]

Beside the forge I have a *real anvil*, and a 3 foot section of rail road track. I choose which tool is best for the job at hand. Currently the rail is tipped over onto it's side so the curve between the under side of the rail section and the web of the track can be used as a swage block.

Figure out how to use the tool you have. When you think you have thought of everything, another smith will use the same tool differently and in a way you never imagined.

[larrynjr]

I would leave it as is, if you need a sharp edge, look to the hardie end of the RA, looks pretty sharp edged to me. Also you could make a flat sided hardie tool if you need a flat face to work on.

[Frosty]

There's an old saying that goes something like this. "It's a wise captain that doesn't change the set of the sails when he first comes on watch."

It means you should learn to use the tools before modifying them. As said, if you need flat and square make a hardy tool.

A flat face isn't nearly as necessary as thought and the soft radius makes a decent fuller. (accelerates drawing down)

If you really need a flat face for something flip it over and use the bottom of the flange. Flattening processes usually don't require the force drawing does.

You can also straighten and flatten on wood with a wood mallet, or other soft hammer without marring the forged details.

Straightening is easiest over a gap like the hardy hole or open jaws of the vise. This only bends the metal without changing it's cross section. (drawing or upsetting)

I have two "real" anvils, the rail anvil I made before I realized how one should be made and probably nearly 20' of various weight rail to make specialty tools from.

Anyway, use it while you keep your eyes open for a "real" anvil, or better expedient anvil, or just more rail.

Build a fire, hit metal. Have fun, play safe.

Frosty

Edited May 24, 2008 by Frosty

[racer3j]

Thanks for the reminder, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."mt

[Frosty]

No worries, we all get caught in the same trap now and then.

You should see how excessively I can overdesign the simplest thing.

Frosty

[Sabre]

yes frosty i tend to do that alot to.

espically when i suck at somthing and i blame it on the tools.

[Frosty]

Do you use design software?

I don't blame the tool unless it failed doing something it should've handled. I'm a lot harder on myself when I screw something up.

I didn't have a lot of choice, Dad insisted.

Frosty