TreeHouse Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 (edited) I'm a new to the forum so thanks for reading this and trying to help me out. I'm more a metal fabricator than a blacksmith, but for some of the work I'm doing I needed an anvil, I found a local guy with a beat up 200lb english made (looks to be peter wright) anvil. I picked it up this morning for $250 and I'm wondering if I wasted money. It seems to have a very small drop from the face to the step... is that normal? and it's got a crack on the near side toward the heal that rings at a higher pitch and has a little lest rebound. The far edge appears to have been welded at some point. Should I grind out the welded section and fill it in with a hard-face alloy? and should I do the same to the small crack? If so can I do it with a 250 amp mig without preheating? I've got a giant propane torch so I can do a preheat if necessary and I'm good with a welder and grinder... But what wire should I use? Before I consider doing this will it help the anvil or make things worse? Any thoughts, or Suggetions I just want to make this new tool worth while... I only know what I've read online, and so far this anvil has all the negatives going for it... it's been welded, it's got a small crack, and it's face is warped should I look for something else? I'll post some pictures this afternoon. My camera died before I could photograph the crack... it's very small and I think I can grind out about a 1/2" cube and remove it... would that be a bad idea? I'm 90% sure it's made by peter wright, in good light I can read Wright England 1 3 5, Does anyone know what the base material of an anvil like this is? -Eric Edited May 22, 2008 by TreeHouse pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alabamablacksmith Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 Base metal of the anvil if Peter Wright or Henry Wright would be wrought iron with a tool steel face plate. I have repaired the body of wrought anvils with e7018 with good success. I think you got a good deal. I would have paid as much as $350 for one that size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete46 Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 Eric, Where Are You Located. I May Be Able To Take That Hunk O Junk Off Your Hands! For half price , cause i'm good like that .:rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TreeHouse Posted May 22, 2008 Author Share Posted May 22, 2008 (edited) So it's wrought iron, thanks for the info I'll see if I can find some e7018 in mig wire, Do you know if I can I use that as a base layer and build up a final hard-facing layer on top? Massachusetts... lol... so it's at least worth half what I paid. I can sigh some relief, that was all the money I made after paying shop bills with the money from this new commision. Edited May 22, 2008 by TreeHouse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TreeHouse Posted May 22, 2008 Author Share Posted May 22, 2008 Sorry about the pictures... I missed that there was a specific format for posting pics. I'll fix that next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alabamablacksmith Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 yes I would build up with 7018 and then choose your hardfacing rod, although I would not hardface anything but the faceplate(careful not to weld hardface more than three beads deep,as it will crack and pull base metal), as this would be a waste of time and money on the side surfaces. For abrasives (if you can find them) I use Norton Blaze flap disc, they work wonders without gouging, and are very controlled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Leppo Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 I dunno... that anvil doesn't look that bad to me. I wouldn't weld it unless I absolutely could not live with, and work around the flaws. if you do:BP0101 Anvil Repair Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose Gomez Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 I agree with Goatman. Smooth the top repair the crack and go to beating the heck out of it. For anvil repair Robb Gunter recomends using 3/16 inch stoody 2110 for buildup, and 1/8 inch stoody 1105 for the face. Grind all surfaces to be welded, Preheat the anvil to 400 for cast anvils, or-450 degrees for wrought anvils. You can put down an unlimited # of layers with the 2110 in order to build up the surface or replace any missing metal. With the 1105 you have to be sure to not exceed 3 layers (like alabamablacksmith`said), so use it sparingly. after welding re heat the anvil to 400 degrees and pack it in vermiculite or wrap it in a welding blanket (anything that will help it to cool verry slowly). This post weld heating and slow cool helps to reduce or eliminate post weld cracking of the tool steel face. Once it has cooled, just grind to shape and your done. Another way to do it is with Rankin hardfacing wire in a MIG welder. You can use Rankin BB-G for buildup, and Rankin DD-G for hardface. You still have to grind the areas to be welded, preheat, and post-heat, but only to 200 degrees. The wire is a ton faster, but you need to have a machine capable of running .045 wire at 250 amps (Big machine). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmercier Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 The short shelf is typical of many older peter wright anvils. I would not repair the anvil unless you find that the flaws in it are hampering your work. When you do, there are several knowledgable people about anvil repair locally who are members of the New England Blacksmiths. ( New England Blacksmiths we're having our spring meet up in brentwood NH the weekend after memorial day ) I know Ed Cannon who lives out by the cape, and John D'Abate who lives in Rhode Island near me both have done multiple anvil repairs on various types of anvils. I believe that Ed uses 11018 rod for his anvil repairs. You have to do the welding in just the right manner to prevent from pushing heat around and causing delamination of the face, or destroying the overall hardness of the face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TreeHouse Posted May 25, 2008 Author Share Posted May 25, 2008 (edited) Thanks for all the answers, I think your right I'll work with it the way it is for now. I've cleaned it some and both edges have been welded by a previous owner, that welding annealed a 3 inch section along each edge that penetrates about 1" into the face. Up close to the step there is still a good solid square working area with the original hardened edges intact. If I can sell enough work to pay for the materials to repair it I'll see about getting in touch with one of you North East blacksmiths and possibly ask for some help with it (I'd rather get help and do it right the first time) I'd also like to know more about this North East group... possibly check out a gathering so I'll be sure to check out the website. thanks again -Eric Edited May 25, 2008 by TreeHouse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironwolfforgeca Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 TreeHouse l repair anvil,s often @ my welding shop done over 30 now and lost count I use 110-18 on base & Stoudy 1105 arc rods haven't had a return yet :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 I would leave it. Just do any superficial work and leave it as it is. there is plenty of space on a 200 pound anvil and, as you said, you are not (yet) primarily a blacksmith so why worry? If you have enough space to do what you want then do it! Did you get that rather dishy looking stand with the anvil? If so it was an even better buy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TreeHouse Posted June 3, 2008 Author Share Posted June 3, 2008 Nah... the stands made from some 4x4's I had and some 4"x3" old oak beams taken out of a barn. I removed the nails and planed the oak down to make a solid cross-section then coutersunk and bolted that beast together... what you can't see in the picture is the old Pexto interchangable mount system attached to the other end of the stand for copper forming. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddog Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Looks like a very good anvil and ready to go to work. IMO the only concern is the crack. I would wait and see what happens with that. The plate too can be repaired with 7018 which work hardens over time. Mild steel on the face works fine save that it wears faster and mushrooms faster. But then you can always reweld it later. I wouldnt touch the welded section for the moment. If the edge chips off you can fix that with one of the high impact crush resistant rods. Irnsrgn has a BP for that. I also wouldnt do much to the face and horn save knock off the worst of the rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 IF you decide to repair FOLLOW ALL OF THE PROCEDURE! skipping something will only make things worse. If you have soft spots now it is the result of not following through with the repair. When you weld on or near the face you are removing temper that needs to be replaced...or you end up with what you now have. I have read several procedures for anvil repairs, have not tried any, but to me Robb's would be the one I would use and recommend. That not to take away form JR's procedure, just my preference. Also, I personnally, would not use MIG for any of the welding. From what pictures you posted, I would be hard pressed to do anything with this anvil. Use it for a while and see if you feel it really needs that kind of work. Oh, and BTW, Welcome too IFI! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug C Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 There is a 150# Peter Wright for sale in Southern New Hampshire (chester) for $300. The heal has a big gouge on it and some of the typical chipping found on older anvils. The rest of the face is in reasonable shape. I have pictures if anyone is interested. The owner may be willing to go a little lower in price.Anvil 150# Peter Wright Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Looks in great shape to me; I'd not even think about reparing the heel diviot as it's not a place I've used much in the 27 years I've been smithing and If I needed it I'd just make a bridge for the hardy hole. More of concern is that the important part---the face--- s hidden by the swages they have placed on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gustab Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 i would use it and see if it be comes a problem . They try to fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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