alabamablacksmith

Dan, any way you could post some pictures, that may help to i.d. the anvil. Matt

Hello to a fellow "Heart of Dixie" resident, glad to see another Alabamian in the mix. Have you heard of the Alabama Forge Council? state wide organization with local chapters, check out this website. Alabama Forge Council

sweetwater, hello to a fellow Alabamian, I agree with Thomas on the overprice, side subject, are you a member of the Alabama Forge Council?, if not I would reccomend it, lots of helpful fellows and if you need something they usually know where to find it.

Lefty I made a large drift that is about 2-1/2" at the widest point. Then drove it home while the eye was at forging temp. Matt.

I started on a Delta like the one you described, I wish Blacksmith forum was around then, it worked for very lite duty things, but beyond that is was useless. The small design really limits the potential you have in your head. Not to mention the belts wear out in the blink of an eye, when they are that small. Good Luck in your quest, I agree with Thomas about building one, with little resources and some time you can build a much better grinder, than those for sale a home improvement stores. Matt.

I always overlook the whymsical designs when I am forging, I love the style. Top notch work, no doubt. Matt.

congrats, looks like you are enjoying, nice setup also.

first thing I forged was a very crude set of fire tools for my forge, the were ugly, but the worked great, still have them today (ten years later).

nicely done, love the simplicity of the design. Matt.

on froes I have made in the past, and all the ones I have seen are all forge welded, similar to making a tomahawk or hatchet, I form the eye and then forge weld to main body over lapping about four inches then draw out the rest of the cutting blade. The eye should be tapered starting from the bottom the keep the handle tight in the blade. I have made them out of lawnmower blades as well as mild steel flat bar. I have seen a few that the eye was form just touching the main blade then arc welded to complete the eye. In all cases the eye connects back to the main body, forming a cutting blade of about twelve to fourteen inches long, this of course is dependant on how wide the stock material that is being rived.. Hope this helps. Matt.

In any mechanical electric, I always use dielectric grease, like the kind you put in spark plug caps, great water and dirt resistance as well as lubrication, I would use some contact cleaner(available at Radio Shack or Walmart) then apply the dielectric grease to lube. Matt Jackson

yes I would build up with 7018 and then choose your hardfacing rod, although I would not hardface anything but the faceplate(careful not to weld hardface more than three beads deep,as it will crack and pull base metal), as this would be a waste of time and money on the side surfaces. For abrasives (if you can find them) I use Norton Blaze flap disc, they work wonders without gouging, and are very controlled.

A.S.O. 50lbs. (very first anvil over ten years ago) $50.00 Paragon 155lbs. $150.00 Unkown 500lbs. $295.00, $205.00 to ship (ouch) Peter Wright 96lbs. $150.00 Peter Wright 156lbs. $250.00 English Coachmaker's 157lbs. $125.00 Hay budden 146lbs. $267.00 Wilkinson 166lbs. $40.00 (missing heel, long civil war story) Unknown 30lbs. $20.00 Railroad anvil nicely made $free

Base metal of the anvil if Peter Wright or Henry Wright would be wrought iron with a tool steel face plate. I have repaired the body of wrought anvils with e7018 with good success. I think you got a good deal. I would have paid as much as $350 for one that size.

anvil brand from your description is probally a Brooks anvil, made in England and very good quality. Google Vaughn and Brooks anvils. This should give you more info.